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AlienFrogModeller

Kinetic CF188 1/48

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51 minutes ago, bradebaugh said:

so I should have mentioned it when I saw you...what about scrapping away plastic on the tube instead of on the inner fuselage?  Wouldn't it be easier?

 

Bruce

 

I actually had to do both. My first dry fit runs were after I thinnned out the intake tubes;  fuselage plastic was getting very thin once I had the assembly fitting...pretty good.

 

Everyone this is my good friend Bruce, we attend the same model club here, and is a great model advisor and my resin mentor.

 

Cheers

Edited by AlienFrogModeller

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1 hour ago, Craig Baldwin said:

Discovered this in my collection

Nice pics. I was on that team, in the bottom pic, Cpl Carmen Bear; I have a complete walkaround just gotta digitize them all. The only pics I am missing is the intake and exhaust covers. I thought I had some...but I guess I don't.

 

RIP SGT Scott "Swampfox" Marsh

Edited by AlienFrogModeller

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Resin cockpit.

Here are my tools; wet sanding keeps the resin dust away. Very important if you do not wet sand, dust mask is a must for health reasons.

 

As you can see the file I use, I dip it into the bottle of water. Then I wipe away the resid mud with a wet q tip. 

I do all of this on a bounty quilted sheet to capture the mud and any residual resin.

IMG-20181230-115303.jpg

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Here I scrapped away the front pin point and sanded that flat area down. I figured instead of sanding the resin to get the right seating depth of the cockit tub.

 

IMG-20181230-121159.jpg

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Some shots with the resin cockpits.

Sanding on the bottom to make them sit properly was required and on the sides to have them sit perfectly. But all in all two cockpits tubs placed within a few minutes.

IMG_20181230_194717.jpg

 

Is it fitting that this is my first resin cockpit tub?

IMG_20181230_194751.jpg

Edited by AlienFrogModeller

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Posted (edited)

I placed a  .010" outer ring on part number H31 in step 9 of the instructions. At the two tabs near the top I placed an addition .005" and then test fit to ensure best fit possible.

Nose-width.jpg

After several dry fit attemps, I gently sanded the additional spacer depth to fit.

Edited by AlienFrogModeller

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Posted (edited)

In this example, I glued the H31 piece inplace and let set. Then marked the "step" created on the outside of the nose to the fuselage. As you can see I needed to add the spacers in these particular spots. Dry fitting after this allowed for a smooth finish when the two are joined together.

IMG-20190105-144309.jpg

Edited by AlienFrogModeller

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Posted (edited)

Dry fitting results, understand that this is one handed with no compession. With a little attitude adjustment and voluntold pressure...it will fit very nicely.

IMG-20190105-145136.jpg

IMG-20190105-145158.jpg

Note the mac tac to protect the AOA vane.

Edited by AlienFrogModeller

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Posted (edited)

Evening gentlemen,

Small tips to my elimination of joint lines, placing masking tape over details I want to protect during the sanding process.

IMG_20190107_212613.jpg

Taking a tool such as this dental tool and gently guide it over the joint repair, you will be able to feel the repair. If you feel a bump while dragging the tool you know you need to apply more filler or keep sanding. This could save you time and effort before you prime to expose the minor scratches or repairs before you apply final coat. I borrowed this technique from my Engine repair days on the Hornet when inspecting the #4 bearings, if we felt a scratch, the bearing was replaced.; this usually equated to a .001" scratch.

IMG-20190107-214850.jpg

Edited by AlienFrogModeller

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Some testing of the canopy position...I had to develop this because I move alot and need a way to remove the canopy easily while trying to retain the proper angle of open.

IMG_20190111_164918.jpg

IMG_20190111_164913.jpg

IMG_20190111_164908.jpg

IMG_20190111_164825.jpg

 

Edited by AlienFrogModeller

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9 hours ago, skyhawk174 said:

Carmen it looks so good. Some really nice instructions on upgrading this kit.

Thank you sir, your kind words are appreciated.

 

Delays in some pics, been sick and am sanding a priming x3. Trying to ensure I get all the imperfections as good as I can. The problem is, if I work on it too long, I get the "that's good enough", then I set the project down and re-evaluate. Sometimes I shake my head at myself after..."what was I thinking"

 

In the meantime, between priming and sanding, I am also working on a F-100 and a C-17A.

Edited by AlienFrogModeller
Grammar

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On 1/13/2019 at 8:01 AM, AlienFrogModeller said:

Thank you sir, your kind words are appreciated.

 

Delays in some pics, been sick and am sanding a priming x3. Trying to ensure I get all the imperfections as good as I can. The problem is, if I work on it too long, I get the "that's good enough", then I set the project down and re-evaluate. Sometimes I shake my head at myself after..."what was I thinking"

 

In the meantime, between priming and sanding, I am also working on a F-100 and a C-17A.

 

Hope you are feeling better Carmen. Health is more important than modelling.

I have a few tips if you are unsure how your sanding is going.

1.     I close my eyes and run my finger over the seam. You would be amazed at how sensitive your finger is. Normally good indicator if more sanding is required.

2.     The other is hold your part up to a mirror, with some high magnification and have a look. Has worked a couple of times for me.

3.     I keep a cloth on my desk that has some Brasso on it. I use an old shoe polishing cloth that I got from a hotel many years ago but any sort of cloth should work. You normally don’t have to rewet it with the Brasso as it stays fine over time. After you have sanded, polish the seam with the Brasso soaked cloth and you should get a lovely shine. I then hold it up to the light and check the seam.

Also, I am finally going to pick up one of these kits. A guy at our club has one for a really good price so I am getting it from him at the next meeting. I will then probably start it and follow your mods/updates. Keep them coming.

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6 hours ago, skyhawk174 said:

 

Hope you are feeling better Carmen. Health is more important than modelling.

 

I have a few tips if you are unsure how your sanding is going.

 

 

1.     I close my eyes and run my finger over the seam. You would be amazed at how sensitive your finger is. Normally good indicator if more sanding is required.

 

2.     The other is hold your part up to a mirror, with some high magnification and have a look. Has worked a couple of times for me.

 

3.     I keep a cloth on my desk that has some Brasso on it. I use an old shoe polishing cloth that I got from a hotel many years ago but any sort of cloth should work. You normally don’t have to rewet it with the Brasso as it stays fine over time. After you have sanded, polish the seam with the Brasso soaked cloth and you should get a lovely shine. I then hold it up to the light and check the seam.

 

 

Also, I am finally going to pick up one of these kits. A guy at our club has one for a really good price so I am getting it from him at the next meeting. I will then probably start it and follow your mods/updates. Keep them coming.

 

Chris nice tips, I will add them to my tool box!

 

Cheers

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