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Kitty Hawk's 48th Scale UH-1H in 134th AHC markings


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This is but one of several  UH-1H Hueys I flew during my tour in 1969-1970 time frame.  The white accent markings are from the 2nd Plt., a Lift Plt or a Slick. Plt.  The 1st Plt, another Slick Plt has Red where mine is white.  The Gun Plt had Blue in those same places; however, the Gunships were C and M Hueys.  We were the Demons, Slicks, and Devils, Guns.  I personally think our Company, 134th AHC, had some of the best looking markings over there.  All of these accent colors were brush painted!!  I even seen Crew Chiefs paint over the black last 3 tail numbers using a rag over his finger!!  Crude??  Yeah, we weren't the Air Force!!  That said, the maintenance of these old War Horses was second to none!!  Our Crews took pride in their mounts and kept them clean as possible, given the environment.

A modeler and photographer I'm NOT.  But here it is anyway.  Adding the detail that's NOT seen was fun and brought back memories.  I even added the GREEN Aircraft Log Book. (And that can be seen but not in these photos.)

Questions??  Comments??

Bo

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<a href="https://postimg.cc/image/xpdzvjnnt/" target="_blank"><img src="https://s20.postimg.cc/wn3td04ul/DSC00847.jpg" alt="DSC00847"/></a>

I added screen to bottom of tailboom. (sorry about the focus.)

<a href="https://postimg.cc/image/pjvxxdrp5/" target="_blank"><img src="https://s20.postimg.cc/t3hvn6uf1/DSC00848.jpg" alt="DSC00848"/></a>

Edited by jabow
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It's the biggest reason I love modelling, when I pick a subject that has significant personal links to my career, so I totally understand your drive.

 

Great looking model, I don't know how good the kits is but seen a lot on here about it. Yours looks great, well done sir.

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That build looks awesome and I love the “replacement” greenhouse window, great touch! I’m a sucker for sentimental builds myself!

35 minutes ago, midnightprowler said:

Beautiful. Not a comment on your build, but on the kit in general. Something looks off in every one I've seen. From certain angles the push pull tubes look off. What is that from?

I haven’t built the kit so I’m not sure but the head may be keyed to the shaft to put the damper control tubes at too great an angle. I vaguely recall having a similar issue with an OH-58A kit I built years ago.

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53 minutes ago, midnightprowler said:

Beautiful. Not a comment on your build, but on the kit in general. Something looks off in every one I've seen. From certain angles the push pull tubes look off. What is that from?

The scissors were produced incorrectly, a flaw by the production team. They are reversed so the connector points are on the wrong side. That makes the control tubes appear in such a severe angle.

It's a shame this happened because they were supplied with excellent references by Ray and Floyd.

 

Chris M

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1 hour ago, Chief Snake said:

The scissors were produced incorrectly, a flaw by the production team. They are reversed so the connector points are on the wrong side. That makes the control tubes appear in such a severe angle.

It's a shame this happened because they were supplied with excellent references by Ray and Floyd.

 

Chris M

So whats the fix, re-clock the head or cut the dampers to re-position?

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1 hour ago, Hooker169 said:

So whats the fix, re-clock the head or cut the dampers to re-position?

Neither of those would make a fix. The relationship of the position of the scissors to the head is correct. The arms of the scissors are reversed, the only fix for that is to make an entirely new scissors assembly.

The dampers are correct in their "clock" position but there has been discussion as to their height on the mast. Some folks say they appear a bit too high. Since the control tubes in question run correctly from the scissors to the stabilizer they appear awkward only because the lower end of the control tube is moved aft to attach to the scissors arm. Anything done to the dampers would not impact that fault. The whole mast and rotor assembly has been made with errors of misunderstanding and imagination. The head has the pre-cone as it should but the blades have a pronounced droop to them that are far from reality. And the fact that no setting for the transmission to be installed leaves one to try and guess how the correct position for the entire thing can be determined. In my opinion these fault are the biggest detractor for an otherwise decent kit to work with.

 

Chris M

Edited by Chief Snake
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Bo it looks great and the Werner's Wings decals came out great.  I'm glad we could do that for you.  

 

As far as the transmission mount goes, the new Werner's Wings correction set will address that.  I have not addressed the scissors...yet.  Not sure how I want to fix it.  

 

By the way, the new decal sheet and the correction set should be out next week.

Floyd

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salvador001 corrected the damper issue on his build by cutting about 3mm off the mast near the sock and then sealing the centre part of the hub so the top of the mast does not fully go into the rotor head hence lowering the dampers position. Correcting the scissors is another story. I agree that is a big detractor from the kit - I just hope it is addressed for  the 1/35 version if it ever happens.

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Without pulling out calipers, placing 48th scale man on roof top, the relation to model’s mast height is EXACTLY how I recall it during my many pre and post flight check of rotor head. I’m 6’2” and my model man is about 6 foot tall.

I pronounce the mast length “Good enuff for Gov’t work.”

Bo

See Here.

83_A2_CE14-_C90_B-451_D-_B28_D-_EA2_AC7_83_A2_CE14-_C90_B-451_D-_B28_D-_EA2_AC7_

 

Edited by jabow
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On 3/25/2018 at 6:44 AM, midnightprowler said:

Beautiful. Not a comment on your build, but on the kit in general. Something looks off in every one I've seen. From certain angles the push pull tubes look off. What is that from?

I agree.  Scissors install on kit isn't aligned with Stab bar as it should.  Moving Scissors to the right. looking inboard, may be possible???  I forget how it was.  Just the scale thickness of plastic, verses real item, may also come into play.

I personally think instructions left out a Stab Bar Support, P/N A59, that would making setting the Stabilizer Bar a much easier task.

Bo

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The pitch links need to go all the way out to the end of the swash plate. Also the collective lift lever is missing under the swash plate, making the transmission area look "naked" obviously things that KH should have not have missed.

 

The blades also have too much bend, almost like they are both under tension, I never did notice that before, but it is annoying for sure. Nothing a little heat won't fix i'm sure.

 

Obviously not your fault Jabow, your model is awesome. Height wise, when I stand on top of the 212, I can rest my arm on top of the blade. As in the blade when level reaches to my armpit. I'm 5'8 or there abouts

Edited by Winnie
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7 hours ago, Winnie said:

The pitch links need to go all the way out to the end of the swash plate. Also the collective lift lever is missing under the swash plate, making the transmission area look "naked" obviously things that KH should have not have missed.

 

The blades also have too much bend, almost like they are both under tension, I never did notice that before, but it is annoying for sure. Nothing a little heat won't fix i'm sure.

 

Obviously not your fault Jabow, your model is awesome. Height wise, when I stand on top of the 212, I can rest my arm on top of the blade. As in the blade when level reaches to my armpit. I'm 5'8 or there abouts

Collective Sleeve and Lever with Push Tube was added to mine.  I DID screw up aft Swashplate Support by moving it to the right to clear Main Driveshaft.  Wasn't 'til I saw illustration that I knew each swashplate support arm IS 120 degrees apart and aft is stepped over for Main Driveshaft clearance.  Next time I'll fix that.

Bo

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I hope you don't mind, but I downloaded and did a little editing on one of your pics. All I did was crop the image and apply a "white correction." That makes it a bit easier to see your beautiful work.

 

DSC00843.jpg

Edited by DonSS3
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8 hours ago, DonSS3 said:

I hope you don't mind, but I downloaded and did a little editing on one of your pics. All I did was crop the image and apply a "white correction." That makes it a bit easier to see your beautiful work.

 

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Don't mind at all!!  Thanks.

For all you that want a display case for your build, I found one on Amazon that is 14 inches long, 6 X 6 inches wide and high.  Has 4 LED lights at the corners.  Tight fit but it DOES fit!!

Took pix with my phone and will TRY to post here.  Wish others would use this case and post some worthy photos of their builds.

Bo

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On 3/26/2018 at 12:43 PM, jabow said:

I agree.  Scissors install on kit isn't aligned with Stab bar as it should.  Moving Scissors to the right. looking inboard, may be possible???  I forget how it was.  Just the scale thickness of plastic, verses real item, may also come into play.

I personally think instructions left out a Stab Bar Support, P/N A59, that would making setting the Stabilizer Bar a much easier task.

Bo

Great work, Bo!  Don't get me started on the instructions.  Floyd and i got NO input on those!  I definitely would like to see us find a fix for the reversed scissor links.  Also, the blade droop bugs me since Bell 21 inch main rotors don't really droop but you did a great job with what's in the box.

    Ray

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20 hours ago, rotorwash said:

Great work, Bo!  Don't get me started on the instructions.  Floyd and i got NO input on those!  I definitely would like to see us find a fix for the reversed scissor links.  Also, the blade droop bugs me since Bell 21 inch main rotors don't really droop but you did a great job with what's in the box.

    Ray

The Instructions for mounting the Stab Bar has you connecting P/C link tube, Scissors Tube and Dampner tubes to set height of Stab Bar.  Part A59 looks kinda like the real Stab Bar Support that makes things alot easier!!  Then ya have to lenghten all of those tube to connect to Stab Bar.

I agree with Salvador001 that one really needs to swap mast splice just above the mast boot and add to top of mast inside of M/R yoke.  That'll lower dampners.

Soon, I gotta sit down and write out changes I made and should have made for my next effort. Such as sanding down that tear drop antenna on roof.  Way too proud. 

Bo

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Additional photos of my Huey inside a PERFECT Display case for it.  It JUST does fit and lights add something to it.  Ordered from Amazon.  It's made for 1/18 scale cars but this Huey works, too.

 

274_B51_E1-_C774-4_B8_C-_B854-936_E0857_

 

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85_AC4354-_B465-4_DB3-939_C-79016_B42_D8

 

Edited by jabow
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