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Joel_W

GWH 1/48 scale Lockheed T-33A early ver.

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 Time for my slightly longer then weekly update.
 
  I started off attaching the rear horizontal stabilizers, which fit pretty well. Some putty work was needed to blend them correctly to the fuselage.
 
   Then came the nose section. I decided to add a 1/8 oz. fishing sinker just to be sure about not having a tail sitter even though my testing showed that as is, she would stand tall on her tricycle gear. Unfortunately, the nose needed some blend sanding as there was a lip on the bottom, and a smaller one on one side. Really just a minor issue.
 
   The last addition was the rear cockpit flaring section to smoothly transition the canopy to the fuselage.
 
   I needed to putty the wing assembly seam to the fuselage, the intakes seams, the nose, the horizontal Stabilizers, and seal the joint for the rear fuselage/canopy seam, yet keep the seam visible.
 
  Finally I masked the windscreen with the Eduard's masking set, and glued it in place. The fit was absolutely perfect.
 
b2PQVm.jpg
 
mQ3qN9.jpg
 
PDvBq3.jpg
 
  One major issue surfaced with the addition of the rear canopy flaring section, and that's a huge gap between it and the rear cockpit bulkhead.
 
xVibRY.jpg
 
  I'm not to sure  how I'm going to correct this, but putting the joint isn't an option. Maybe some type of sculpting epoxy.
  I also finished the wing tip tanks and dry fitted them. Damn,  she's really starting to look like a classic T-33A.
 
mpUrhq.jpg
 
Joel

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Looking good.

 

 One thing that I have found that works for those kind of gaps is white glue. Pack the gap with white glue and wipe with a damp cloth. It may take a few applications as it shrinks when it dries, but it makes filling gaps like that, and hard to reach areas, really easy.

 

 Have you dry-fit the canopy yet to see how much of the gap is visible?

 

 Sean

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Perfect plastic putty is your friend for that gap.  It can be applied and will dry quickly, then it can be blended with a q-tip dipped in water.

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4 hours ago, martin_sam_2000 said:

Looking good.

 

 One thing that I have found that works for those kind of gaps is white glue. Pack the gap with white glue and wipe with a damp cloth. It may take a few applications as it shrinks when it dries, but it makes filling gaps like that, and hard to reach areas, really easy.

 

 Have you dry-fit the canopy yet to see how much of the gap is visible?

 

 Sean

 

44 minutes ago, lockheed2004 said:

Perfect plastic putty is your friend for that gap.  It can be applied and will dry quickly, then it can be blended with a q-tip dipped in water.

 

Sean &  lockheed2004,

Thanks guys for your ideas.  I'm also thinking of trying a acrylic type putty that I can smooth out. I had tossed my Milliput as it was so old it just dried out.  will be checking out what my local big box craft store has in stock.

Joel

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Have you ever tried Aves Apoxie Sculpt? It is a two part epoxy clay like Milliput, but come in separate containers for the two parts. Keeps much longer than Milliput (I have some that is a least 5 years old and it is still usable). Comes in colors but white is probably easiest to deal with as far as painting. It is VERY fine grained. Has a longer working time than Milliput and dries rock hard. Smooths out with water. Sands to perfect feathered edges. You can get it in 1/10 lb size so even if, after a few years it hardens on you, you won't be wasting a lot. I have used it to fill gaps for years.

 

I have no connection with Aves, I am just a satisfied customer.

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Nice work, mate!

I would suggest watersolluable putty as well.

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Joel, once again you are turning out one fine specimen of a model.  I am waiting anxiously to see your fix for that issue with the rear bulkhead.  Wish I could recommend something, but my skills are not that advanced yet.  If I may ask, please post some pics of the fix and maybe a brief explanation on how so I may learn something here, if you weren't planning that already.

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3 hours ago, Aigore said:

Nice work, mate!

I would suggest watersolluable putty as well.

 

Janne & Mstor,

   Thanks for your suggestions. It's much appreciated.

 

   After some additional thought, I decided to use Vallejo Acrylic putty as it's extremely easy to work with. The down side is that it shrinks like crazy, so multiple layers will be needed. I've just applied the 1st coat, gave it 30 seconds to set up, and then smoothed and cleaned the joint with a damp Q tip. Will give it a few hours to cure, then apply the next coat. Hopefully 3 or coats should do the trick. the additional coats should be able to be applied in 15-30 min as they're much thinner then the original coat hat has to also dry from the bottom up.

Joel

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2 hours ago, JesusNut said:

Joel, once again you are turning out one fine specimen of a model.  I am waiting anxiously to see your fix for that issue with the rear bulkhead.  Wish I could recommend something, but my skills are not that advanced yet.  If I may ask, please post some pics of the fix and maybe a brief explanation on how so I may learn something here, if you weren't planning that already.

Tom

  Thanks so much for stopping bye, and your thumbs up. It's always greatly appreciated.

 

Joel

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IMHO,filling up the gap is a problem and how to get the area be even is another.Can the rear canopy frame(at closed position)partly cover the gap when looking through from outside?

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16 hours ago, egg2012 said:

IMHO,filling up the gap is a problem and how to get the area be even is another.Can the rear canopy frame(at closed position)partly cover the gap when looking through from outside?

  Egg2012,

  Basically yes. 

  I've got the gap just about perfect, and will be repainting the bulkhead tomorrow unless my Honey to do list gets better then anticipated. 

Joel

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2 hours ago, Joel_W said:

  Egg2012,

  Basically yes. 

  I've got the gap just about perfect, and will be repainting the bulkhead tomorrow unless my Honey to do list gets better then anticipated. 

Joel

That's the top priority for sure!

 

Feng 

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Hey Joel,

 

Puttying and sanding is not something that I look forward to but so essential for getting good results.

I can see that you have put in a lot of meticulous work.

She looks great with her wing tanks on.
 

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Posted (edited)

Looking great, Joel!

 

21 hours ago, CaptainObvious said:

 

Puttying and sanding is not something that I look forward to ...

 

And I think we'll forever be puttying and sanding  : (    That's what modeling is about, it seems.

 

 

 

Edited by crackerjazz

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On ‎4‎/‎18‎/‎2018 at 11:29 PM, egg2012 said:

That's the top priority for sure!

 

Feng 

Feng,

  The list has a surprise and put me back a full day or so.

Joel

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23 hours ago, CaptainObvious said:

Hey Joel,

 

Puttying and sanding is not something that I look forward to but so essential for getting good results.

I can see that you have put in a lot of meticulous work.

She looks great with her wing tanks on.
 

 

Capt. Obvious,

  Ain't that the truth. 

Joel

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1 hour ago, crackerjazz said:

Looking great, Joel!

 

 

And I think we'll forever be puttying and sanding  : (    That's what modeling is about, it seems.

 

 

 

Crackerjazz,

 No truer words were ever spoken for plastic scale modelers. I sure hope that when my time comes, no one sneaks in a new tube of Tamiya putty before they seal the lid.

Joel

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Your not done yet :wave: just kidding.

 

Looking good .

 

Don

 

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44 minutes ago, DONG said:

Your not done yet :wave: just kidding.

 

Looking good .

 

Don

 

  Don,

 I'm back to my usual snail's pace. 

The ChopperMan

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On ‎4‎/‎21‎/‎2018 at 2:51 AM, crackerjazz said:

 

And I think we'll forever be puttying and sanding  : (    That's what modeling is about, it seems.

 

 

Some kits more than others. This current kit I'm working on is a dog.

I think I've been spoilt by Tamiya.

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3 hours ago, CaptainObvious said:

 

Some kits more than others. This current kit I'm working on is a dog.

I think I've been spoilt by Tamiya.

You could always try a Kinetic Intruder or Prowler if you are in the mood for some self punishment :P

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Janne,

  One day I'd sure like the try my hand at the Tracker series to start with. 

Joel

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Joel,

the build start to show his beauty,great progress mate!

 

 

Gianni

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3 hours ago, kurnass77 said:

Joel,

the build start to show his beauty,great progress mate!

 

 

Gianni

Gianni,

  Thanks so much for those most kind words. it's greatly appreciated.  

  the build has really slowed down last week and this week as I'm trying to get 3 models ready including boxing up for the Noreastcon this coming Saturday. Plus the infamous Honey to Do List just keeps on growing. 

Joel

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Well, more then a week has past since I've posted any progress on the T-33A. While work has slowed to nearly an full crawl, I've managed to make some decent progress none the less. Final sanding and polishing, re-scribing as needed (my most unfavorite aspect of modeling by far), add the Vertical and Horizontal Stabilizers. I masked the canopy and taped off the cockpit.  And finally all the individual pieces that needs to be painted have been cleaned up and readied.
   Now comes another decision time as how to prime everything. The T-33As on the decal sheet are all ANG units, no longer front line aircraft. From the pictures I've seen and from various posts, all these aircraft were maintained to a high level. So little operational weathering is going to be  done.
 But the issue that I've come up with is that while these aircraft were maintained to a high level, they're not freshly painted, and would or should show some paint fading, and a little wear and tear. At least that's my thinking at this point. So I decided on black basing, but with a heavier color coat to keep the effects to a min.
  Since I couldn't find any Acrylics pre-mixed in ADC FS16473, which is the call out from the Caracal Models decal sheet, I downloaded two sites versions of the chip which were darker then almost all of the pictures I have.  I then custom mixed Tamiya XF-20  Medium Gray with XF-2 White, and FX-18 Medium Blue till I got as close as I could to the chip color. But now going over a black base not gray, I'm going to lighten up the color once again.
   As it stands now, the T-33A has the base black coat applied.
 
xeyWcq.jpg
 
tdxAi8.jpg
 
 
   I didn't bother masking out the wheel wells and inner flaps as my original plan was to just mask out the wells after the fuselage has been painted and repaint plus those areas that weren't originally painted. This way I was able to get the Interior Green into all the nooks and Crannies, without worrying about over spray.
 
JjLQJo.jpg
 
Joel

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