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Best result for airbrushing camo?


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I've tried using Mig Masking Putty, but I hate how it gives an uneven edge. Soft in some areas then hard in others. It requires touchups with a brush but it kind of feels like it gives it a toy-like look.

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/diescOwGlIm8pg0k2

 

This Tamiya Panther is my next try at getting the camo done better. I'm thinking of trying to free hand it. Any advice on getting the camo lines to look as good as the one on the instructional pamphlet?

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/UGR7far295I0TpUh1

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Experiment with different paints, thinness of said paint, low psi for thinner paints, and just experiment, you can also use the base color to 'trim up' or 'knock back' a camouflage pattern and get it how you want it.  Really though free handing takes practice but will yield much better results than anything else for masking.

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On 4/9/2018 at 2:02 PM, WelshZeCorgi said:

I'm thinking of trying to free hand it. Any advice on getting the camo lines to look as good as the one on the instructional pamphlet?

 

You need very thin paint with fine pigments, sprayed at low air pressure, around 10-12 psi using a gravity feed airbrush with a 0.2mm or 0.3mm needle & nozzle combination.

 

Watch this video (starting at 23:00) to see how to achieve sharp camo lines free hand, even on a small 1/72 scale subject:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T401bmx7ads

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 4/9/2018 at 5:02 PM, WelshZeCorgi said:

I've tried using Mig Masking Putty, but I hate how it gives an uneven edge. Soft in some areas then hard in others. It requires touchups with a brush but it kind of feels like it gives it a toy-like look.

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/diescOwGlIm8pg0k2

 

This Tamiya Panther is my next try at getting the camo done better. I'm thinking of trying to free hand it. Any advice on getting the camo lines to look as good as the one on the instructional pamphlet?

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/UGR7far295I0TpUh1

It's probably not the fault of the putty as for varying hard to soft edges. If the putty is pressed into the model surfaces hard,,then yes you are likely to get a harder line. If some curvature to the putty against the surface is maintained then a softer line should be obtained. The key is to keep the airbrush perpendicular to the surface and the putty at all times. If you come in at a shallow angle that defeats the whole purpose of the putty as paint is getting in under the putty. 

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12 hours ago, 86Sabreboy1 said:

It's probably not the fault of the putty as for varying hard to soft edges. If the putty is pressed into the model surfaces hard,,then yes you are likely to get a harder line. If some curvature to the putty against the surface is maintained then a softer line should be obtained. The key is to keep the airbrush perpendicular to the surface and the putty at all times. If you come in at a shallow angle that defeats the whole purpose of the putty as paint is getting in under the putty. 

Also make sure the putty has a uniform edge and maintain a uniform spraying distance. I've learned to roll a putty rope and use it to mark the outlines. Then use paper, tape, or sheets of putty to fill in the  masked outlines.

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I recently painted the 3 color schemes on my 1/32 F-14 with Mission models pants and used a combination of tape in areas and blu-tack.

I was so impressed with how the paint leveled and left ZERO hard edges anywhere.

 

Awesome stuff!

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  • 3 months later...
On 4/19/2018 at 4:05 PM, dnl42 said:

Also make sure the putty has a uniform edge and maintain a uniform spraying distance. I've learned to roll a putty rope and use it to mark the outlines. Then use paper, tape, or sheets of putty to fill in the  masked outlines.

I'm using the black mig putty for masking but am having difficulty getting a "uniform" edge because the putty seems to deform and spread over time, by the time I'm done masking off an area the putty has slowly sank where I started and is still stiff where I finished.  

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15 minutes ago, WelshZeCorgi said:

I'm using the black mig putty for masking but am having difficulty getting a "uniform" edge because the putty seems to deform and spread over time, by the time I'm done masking off an area the putty has slowly sank where I started and is still stiff where I finished.  

 

I have the exact same issue. In addition, I have found its not "tacky" enough to stick to large vertical surfaces and tends to easily move around. I've gone back to using BluTack, as it's far superior for this job, and far cheaper!

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55 minutes ago, WelshZeCorgi said:

I'm using the black mig putty for masking but am having difficulty getting a "uniform" edge because the putty seems to deform and spread over time, by the time I'm done masking off an area the putty has slowly sank where I started and is still stiff where I finished.  

I'd say the same as modelingbob. For me I find either Elmer's tack or Poster Tack by Scotch 3M works well and hold their shape and position. Don't get the .99 cent stuff as it will leave a residue.

 

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Somebody talked about the MIG black putty at the last IPMSOC meeting. Seems one of its prime qualities is the flattening that you describe. From what I saw, it does so quickly!

 

For my purposes, that's a problem. I'll stick with Silly Putty, which is sufficiently stable for masking. 

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4 minutes ago, dnl42 said:

Somebody talked about the MIG black putty at the last IPMSOC meeting. Seems one of its prime qualities is the flattening that you describe. From what I saw, it does so quickly!

 

For my purposes, that's a problem. I'll stick with Silly Putty, which is sufficiently stable for masking. 

 

BTW, if anyone is thinking of getting this MIG black putty stuff, you can get the same thing much cheaper from Crazy Aaron's Puttyworld:

 

https://puttyworld.com/collections/black-thinking-putty/products/black-primary-thinking-putty

 

I have them both, Mig stuff and Crazy Aaron's and they are identical (except for price).

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8 hours ago, Mstor said:

 

BTW, if anyone is thinking of getting this MIG black putty stuff, you can get the same thing much cheaper from Crazy Aaron's Puttyworld:

 

https://puttyworld.com/collections/black-thinking-putty/products/black-primary-thinking-putty

 

I have them both, Mig stuff and Crazy Aaron's and they are identical (except for price).

Interesting. They suggest they're invented Silly Putty lo those many years ago. In any event, they seem to have firm and soft. I suspect the MIG is equivalent to the soft texture. May be useful to try the firm texture...

 

The soft may be useful for filling in areas with more robust boundaries? Would need to test out interactions between two different mediums.

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And 120m later. While the Silly Putty holds its shape longer, it settles a wee bit faster than tar pitch. Anyway, this new stuff will join the arsenal of masking media.

Thinking-Silly-120m-vga.jpg

Edited by dnl42
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13 hours ago, dnl42 said:

Here's a look at the firm Crazy Aaron's Thinking Putty. I put some Silly Putty next to it. Let's see how they settle out.

 

Thinking-Silly-vga.jpg

Silly Putty works great when it's new but over time it looses plasticity. When applied to a model itlll hold for a few minutes but then potentially lift or pop off all together.

 

Elmer's tack seems to last forever. I've used the same "clump" for many years now. In fact I keep it in the Silly Putty Egg that once had Sully Putty I've long since thrown out. 

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I bought some Silly Putty a few years back and it had an oily slippery surface to it. Needless to say, I never used it. Still sitting in its egg. I'm also not using the Mig/Aaron's putty. The problem I have with it is its settling properties. The same problem noted by modelingbob. So, I'm still using some blue tack stuff, which I am not happy with either as I find it difficult to get it rolled out into consistent thin "sausages". I can't remember which brand I bought so I am ordering some original "Blu-tack" and will see if it makes any difference.

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