Eric B. Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 Hello, This is my S-3B Viking that I started quite around the same time as the Hasegawa F-18C that must be somewhere around here. ... This one also was a long term project, many other kits being finished in th meantime. Probably a lack of motivation at some times, just because of a few details I had to address. Model ils scribed (a pity I was not released with engraved panel lines as the Hasegawa Prowler was) and wing were cut and detailed to be built as folded wings.. The rest is converting the Hasegawa S-3A plastic as an S-3B. Here are the photographs Eric B. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crackerjazz Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 Beautiful job, Eric! Can you tell us how you did the weathering? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tato Posted April 17, 2018 Share Posted April 17, 2018 Beautiful S-3 Eric! Really like the weathering. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wafu Posted April 17, 2018 Share Posted April 17, 2018 Very nice addition to your collection and in 1/72, well done sir. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Trojan Thunder Posted April 17, 2018 Share Posted April 17, 2018 very nice Eric Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CaptainObvious Posted April 19, 2018 Share Posted April 19, 2018 Beautiful Viking! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric B. Posted April 27, 2018 Author Share Posted April 27, 2018 Hi all, Thank you really, Crackerjazz weathering is my general usual technique, as for the F-14Ds, F-18C and EA-6B that are around in this forum.... WEATHERING Weathering technique : there is no pre-shading (add no black basing) and all weathering is achieved after the original TPS scheme is plainly applied (weathering over camo). Technique follows a few simple principles. Origin is one of my friend, and master modeller once telling me : to paint a kit just figure out what happened in real life.. Based on that both F-14D (we are talking about TPS weathering here right?) are weathered a different manner because I guess no two Tomcats weathered the same way. Squadrons differ, operational conditions differ, environments differ !! F-14 weathering is a result of an effect of time, paint touch ups, but also mechanic shoes strains, liquid spillage.. F-14 weathering doesn't build in one day and that is how I tried to do my kit weathering.. First step : paint the plain TPS scheme FS 35237, FS36320 and FS36375. Then I start to work on panels, altering basic colours either darkening or lightening them with approaching colours. (exemple adding FS 36320 in FS35237 or WW2 Intermediate blue in FS3537). Panels are painted, starting to give model a patchwork effect. Then I work on touch ups along panel lines. Airbrush tuned to paint thin lines I paint along panel lines again using approachnig but different greys (generally lighter greys).. If possible all above is done in several days .. purposedly. As in real life. You don't paint the same way on different days. Your hand will be steady one day, not so much another day, your airbrush lines will be slightly thinner or thicker another day, you won't use the same exact colour - Doing all the job on a given day will tend to give your model an even finish with symetrical effects .. and that is not what you want weathering your model. Let your weathering build slowly. I then process decaling, sometimes blending some decals with a very thinned spray of main camo paint. Panel lines are then enhanced with very thinned sepia, black or dark grey oil based paint as my base camo is Gunze aqueous paint. This means I can wipe out excess paint from my panel lines with no risk for my main paint as thinners are not compatible.. I now have a decalled, panel lined, touched up Tomcat but the strains of mechanics are still lacking. A lot of people walk on Tomcats (pilots, mechanics), soles generally are dark, they use oil and generally all this leave some black strains and soot on the aircraft. I use very thinned black paint in my airbrush : I would call this mix coloured thinner more than thinned paint. Airbrush is set to minimum width spray (1 to 1.5 mm ie 0.1 or 0.15 in - as narrow as I can). I then spray all areas of they aircraft that mechanics or pilots tread : upper air intakes, main fuselage, upper wings (avoid spoilers, flaps and slats), centre parts of stabilators. Also areas under cockpit around hand grips or footsteps.. Spray print is so thinned that you have to remain on an area to see the dark colour build. Then I touch up again with small light grey dots over the dark stain effect... The idea is mechanics came, walked on an area, strained but later touched up again (clean, dirty, clean layers pile up - I believe that is how it goes.. ) Cheers Eric B. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crackerjazz Posted April 27, 2018 Share Posted April 27, 2018 Hi thanks for detailed instructions, Eric. Really appreciate it. I remember asking the same question before but I couldn't seem to find the thread. I recall reading your reply then was like being revealed the secrets of a magic trick. I'll make sure I save the link this time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric B. Posted April 27, 2018 Author Share Posted April 27, 2018 Hi, Thank you Never mind, you are welcome... Cheers Eric B. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vidar_710 Posted April 28, 2018 Share Posted April 28, 2018 (edited) Nice WarHoover! I did two 5-year tours with VS-22 as a SENSO with a 3 year tour as an instructor with VS-27 in between. note my log in name. ;-) Glad to see a Checkmate in the forums. FYI... when a Buddy Store goes on, the green nav lite and red anti-smash lenses come off and are replaced with blue. This helps the air wing find the tanker at night. plus, nice color choice with the TACCO and SENSO canopies. They are actually clear, but are lined with a paper film on the interior service in Light Gull grey... few modelers get that right. Tracy Edited April 28, 2018 by Vidar_710 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stef (#6) Posted May 2, 2018 Share Posted May 2, 2018 Hello Eric, Your busual standard on that Viking, I really like the way your dealing with 1/72; I wish I could achieve such level on my 48 and 32. Best, Stef (#6) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Collin Posted May 2, 2018 Share Posted May 2, 2018 Always liked -22’s red marking on their low vis birds. Nice job on your TPS. As a Viking guy back in the day, nice to see another build of this lady on the boards. Cheers Collin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DanW Posted May 3, 2018 Share Posted May 3, 2018 It's a master piece! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric B. Posted May 3, 2018 Author Share Posted May 3, 2018 Hi Thank you all for your kind words : appreciated after the long story building that model. Tracy : I noticed your log name at a glance and I figured you had been around VS-22 and Vikings. Thank you for your precious information about aircraft lighting in operation : I never had read this before. See if I can change this. I read (can't remember where) about the TACCO/SENSO canopies but thanks for the confirmation. Collin : must have been nice to be around these aircraft. I never saw one in flesh, but I always loved the stance/shape of the aircraft Best regards Eric B. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AD-4N Posted May 25, 2018 Share Posted May 25, 2018 Masterfully executed model. Superior construction, paint and weathering. Appears you shot the photos outside, which always looks right. Natural light is the best, Btavo. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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