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Eric B.

Lockheed S-3B Viking - Hasegawa

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Hello,

 

This is my S-3B Viking that I started quite around the same time as the Hasegawa F-18C that must be somewhere around here.

... This one also was a long term project, many other kits being finished in th meantime. Probably a lack of motivation at some times, just because of a few details I had to address. 

 

Model ils scribed (a pity I was not released with engraved panel lines as the Hasegawa Prowler was) and wing were cut and detailed to be built as folded wings.. The rest is converting the Hasegawa S-3A plastic as an S-3B.

 

Here are the photographs

 


824371smallS3B8966.jpg

 

544096smallS3B8970.jpg

 

838832smallS3B8976b.jpg

 

541904smallS3B8984.jpg

 

536491smallS3B8991.jpg

 

563910smallS3B8992.jpg

 

Eric B.

 

 

 

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Very nice addition to your collection and in 1/72, well done sir.

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Hi all, 

 

Thank you really, 

 

Crackerjazz weathering is my general usual technique, as for the F-14Ds, F-18C and EA-6B that are around in this forum....

 

WEATHERING

Weathering technique : there is no pre-shading (add no black basing)  and all weathering is achieved after the original TPS scheme is plainly applied (weathering over camo).

Technique follows a few simple principles. Origin is one of my friend, and master modeller once telling me : to paint a kit just figure out what happened in real life..

Based on that both F-14D (we are talking about TPS weathering here right?) are weathered a different manner because I guess no two Tomcats weathered the same way. Squadrons differ, operational conditions differ, environments differ !!

F-14 weathering is a result of an effect of time, paint touch ups, but also mechanic shoes strains, liquid spillage..

F-14 weathering doesn't build in one day and that is how I tried to do my kit weathering..

First step : paint the plain TPS scheme FS 35237, FS36320 and FS36375.

Then I start to work on panels, altering basic colours either darkening or lightening them with approaching colours. (exemple adding FS 36320 in FS35237 or WW2 Intermediate blue in FS3537). Panels are painted, starting to give model a patchwork effect.

Then I work on touch ups along panel lines. Airbrush tuned to paint thin lines I paint along panel lines again using approachnig but different greys (generally lighter greys)..

If possible all above is done in several days .. purposedly.

As in real life. You don't paint the same way on different days. Your hand will be steady one day, not so much another day, your airbrush lines will be slightly thinner or thicker another day, you won't use the same exact colour -  Doing all the job on a given day will tend to give your model an even finish with symetrical effects .. and that is not what you want weathering your model. Let your weathering build slowly.

I then process decaling, sometimes blending some decals with a very thinned spray of main camo paint.

Panel lines are then enhanced with very thinned sepia, black or dark grey oil based paint as my base camo is Gunze aqueous paint. This means I can wipe out excess paint from my panel lines with no risk for my main paint as thinners are not compatible..

I now have a decalled, panel lined, touched up Tomcat but the strains of mechanics are still lacking.

A lot of people walk on Tomcats (pilots, mechanics), soles generally are dark, they use oil and generally all this leave some black strains and soot on the aircraft.

I use very thinned black paint in my airbrush : I would call this mix coloured thinner more than thinned paint. Airbrush is set to minimum width spray (1 to 1.5 mm ie 0.1 or 0.15 in - as narrow as I can).

I then spray all areas of they aircraft that mechanics or pilots tread : upper air intakes, main fuselage, upper wings (avoid spoilers, flaps and slats), centre parts of stabilators. Also areas under cockpit around hand grips or footsteps.. Spray print is so thinned that you have to remain on an area to see the dark colour build.

Then I touch up again with small light grey dots over the dark stain effect...

The idea is mechanics came, walked on an area, strained but later touched up again (clean, dirty, clean layers pile up - I believe that is how it goes.. )

 

Cheers 

 

Eric B.

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Hi thanks for detailed instructions, Eric.  Really appreciate it.   I remember asking the same question before but I couldn't seem to find the thread.    I recall reading your reply then was like being revealed the secrets of a magic trick.   I'll make sure I save the link this time.

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Nice WarHoover!

I did two 5-year tours with VS-22 as a SENSO with a 3 year tour as an instructor with VS-27 in between.

 

note my log in name. ;-)

 

Glad to see a Checkmate in the forums.

 

FYI... when a Buddy Store goes on, the green nav lite and red anti-smash lenses come off and are replaced with blue. This helps the air wing find the tanker at night.

 

plus, nice color choice with the TACCO and SENSO canopies. They are actually clear, but are lined with a paper film on the interior service in Light Gull grey... few modelers get that right.

 

Tracy

Edited by Vidar_710

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Hello Eric,

 

Your busual standard on that Viking, I really like the way your dealing with 1/72; I wish I could achieve such level on my 48 and 32.

 

Best,

 

Stef (#6)

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Always liked -22’s red marking on their low vis birds. Nice job on your TPS. 

As a Viking guy back in the day, nice to see another build of this lady on the boards. 

Cheers

Collin

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Hi

 

Thank you all for your kind words : appreciated after the long story building that model.

 

Tracy : I noticed your log name at a glance and I figured you had been around VS-22 and Vikings.

 

Thank you for your precious information about aircraft lighting in operation : I never had read this before. See if I can change this.

I read (can't remember where) about the TACCO/SENSO canopies but thanks for the confirmation. 

 

Collin : must have been nice to be around these aircraft. I never saw one in flesh, but I always loved the stance/shape of the aircraft

 

Best regards

 

Eric B.

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Masterfully executed model.  Superior construction, paint and weathering.  Appears you shot the photos outside, which always looks right.  Natural light is the best,  Btavo.

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