dnl42 Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 I'm glad to hear you're still excited about this! Did you manage to prime those parts you showed above? Would love to see that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MoFo Posted July 13, 2018 Share Posted July 13, 2018 Heads up for anyone in the US, UK, Germany, Italy, Spain or Japan: Anycubic will be running a sale for Amazon Prime day - 20% off the Photon. So it will be about $430, which is a pretty great deal. Better yet, it doesn't look like you actually need to have a Prime account - its just a coupon code - so there's a chance that anyone (in those countries) can take advantage of the offer. More details (specific dates, times and codes) on their Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/anycubic3dprinter/videos/396300070776121/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ralf Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 Thanks for the info... I just bought one through Amazon Germany. They have a 10% voucher in addition to the 20 % prime day offer, so that I saved 155 €s which is an even better deal. When I ordered the printer they had only 8 left, so be aware that they could be sold out. Cheers Ralf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lunokhod 2 Posted August 13, 2018 Share Posted August 13, 2018 I am still contemplating which printer to buy and basically hesitate between the Wanhao duplicator 7 and the Anycubic Photon. The duplicator has a larger printing volume than the photon but the minimum layer thichness is 0.035 mm vs 0.025 mm for the Photon. Apart for the price (duplicator is a bit more expensive), I am curious to know why you choose the photon and not the duplicator. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
niart17 Posted August 13, 2018 Author Share Posted August 13, 2018 Hey Vincent. Man, I'm a forgetful idiot and still failed to mail you those handle parts I printed for you to check against Shapeways. I'm really sorry. I will try to get to the post office and get those to you. But to answer your question about Wanhao vs Anycubic, I based my decision for the Anycubic on that the majority of reviews being positive and from looking at the build quality of the Photon. The machined anodized build plate and resin vat sides looked very sturdy in the pics (and they are rock solid) and just the overall build quality looked better. Obviously I can't compare side by side except for using pics of the Wanhao but that's what used to compare. I haven't printed much lately as we're getting the kiddos ready to go back to school so things are crazy in the household right now. Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MoFo Posted August 13, 2018 Share Posted August 13, 2018 Just to make life more difficult, Creality (another popular brand) announced their first DLP printer last week, too. Though I'd strongly suggest waiting a few months before looking at one - Creality tends to revise/improve during production (sort of like the D7, except without actual, official Versions). In fact, I suspect we'll see a flood of clones in the next year or so, as everyone rips off the basic phablet-LCD-as-UV-mask design. Also worth noting, Prusa are widely reported to be working on some form of resin printer. If it's anywhere near production, there should be some announcements at NY maker faire in late September. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aussie-Pete Posted August 16, 2018 Share Posted August 16, 2018 Just bought the same printer. Looking forward to printing some cool parts Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ralf Posted August 16, 2018 Share Posted August 16, 2018 I've chosen the Photon because of the positive reviews. After looking at the actual printer and the workflow there are some advantages in my opinion over the D7. First the build quality is very good for this price. Especially the build plate and the LCD mount. It is a very solid machine. What was actually the tipping point for me is that the Photon doesn't need a connection to a computer while printing. I can insert a USB stick and start the print and leave it alone. The Photon slicer is much simpler and very easy to use. The first trials were very promising. Now I have to improve my 3d modeling knowledge to make the 3d models in the quality I want. Just a opinion to the Prusa. I've got their MK2 and it's a good machine but it took a very long time to get one. I've ordered mine in early summer last year waited months then got it and just one week later they released their MK3. Wasn't too happy about that, they then offered a discount on the upgrade. This also took months to arrive. So even if they release a DLP printer in the future it could take a very long time to get one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lunokhod 2 Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 I just bought the Anycubic Photon that I expect to receive in a few days. I am just wandering whether some of you used a UV hardener such as : https://www.amazon.fr/MelodySusie-36W-UV-Séchoir-Ongles/dp/B01FJWXPUU/ref=pd_sbs_147_43?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01FJWXPUU&pd_rd_r=36270de2-a53c-11e8-84bd-173e62a35e8b&pd_rd_w=I2lZ0&pd_rd_wg=PovXW&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=A1X6FK5RDHNB96&pf_rd_p=2c5b8a5e-8e0a-40ca-bd08-715e90b72105&pf_rd_r=HVQ0EDZ4DNR8PGTX1ZQZ&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&refRID=HVQ0EDZ4DNR8PGTX1ZQZ or the printed parts are hard enough and do not need further hardening. Your views please. Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
niart17 Posted August 21, 2018 Author Share Posted August 21, 2018 (edited) I haven't bought a UV light yet, I've just been setting the pieces in the sun for a little while to finish curing. So far that seems to be good enough. But since the lights are relatively cheap and you can use them 24 hours or in bad weather, I may have to pick one up. but to answer your last question, the parts DO need to be hardened either by sunlight or some UV source. They are pliable straight from the printer. Bill Edited August 21, 2018 by niart17 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crackerjazz Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 Hi Vincent, perhaps this would mean you'll be printing less expensive (than Shapeways) LM parts? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MoFo Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 6 hours ago, Lunokhod 2 said: or the printed parts are hard enough and do not need further hardening. No, you need to use some form of UV to fully cure the parts once they're out of the printer and cleaned. The printer only partially cures the resin - enough to print a solid object, but not the full chemical reaction. It needs another blast of UV light to finish the curing process. Doesn't really matter *how* - you can do it with UV LEDs, or the sun, or a full-spectrum fluorescent tube - but it will need more UV light to fully cure the resin. Those fingernail curing devices are a popular option, but it would also be easy to make your own with UV LEDs and some sort of box. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ralf Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 (edited) The fingernail curing things are cheap but the UV wavelength is usually too short. Depending on the resin there must be 400nm, the fingernail curer are often much lower. LED strips from Amazon or Ebay are in the same price range and usually better. There are a numer of tutorials out there also on Youtube (search for UV baking oven). Edited August 22, 2018 by ralf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lunokhod 2 Posted August 23, 2018 Share Posted August 23, 2018 I went too fast and didn't realize the figernail device UV lenght was too short, fortunatly I found 405 nm replacement lamps such as https://fr.I am a spammer, please report this post..com/item/2016-New-365-405nm-Replacement-9W-UV-LED-Lamp-Bulb-For-UV-Lamp-Nail-Dryer-Nail/32780119627.html?spm=a2g0w.search0204.3.148.5b0365fcSB57b9&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10152_10151_10065_10344_10068_10342_10343_10340_10341_5724615_10696_10084_5724015_10083_10618_5724315_10304_10307_10820_10821_5724215_10302_5724115_10843_10059_100031_5725015_10103_5724915_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620,searchweb201603_56,ppcSwitch_7_ppcChannel&algo_expid=21823d6b-1708-4111-84c7-38a4c927e6b2-21&algo_pvid=21823d6b-1708-4111-84c7-38a4c927e6b2&priceBeautifyAB=0 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lunokhod 2 Posted August 26, 2018 Share Posted August 26, 2018 (edited) I did my first print today. It was half a success and half a failure. I wanted to print a part of the aft heat shield of the 1/32 service module I am currently designing (the part in cyan below). It's a small part about 5 cm diameter so I didn't want to spend too much time on printing (about 1h30). The layer thickness was 0.05 mm, the normal exposure time 8 s and the offtime 3 s. As you can see on the following pictures half of the part was nicely done with very crispy details such as the rivets but the other part was completely messed up. Two possible explanations, 1) there is a tendancy of succion for flat surfaces towards the liquid resin which can create a deformation, 2) as you can see below there is a hollow in the part where the liquid resin will stay and its only way to get out is if you have a bended side. I think the two things happened together since when the part was finished the remaining liquid resin dropped from the wrong side mainly. So I will try again by inclining the part. I expect it will work this time. Wish me luck. And I also would like to know whether the parameters (layer thickness 0.05 mm, normal exposure time 8 s, off time 3 s) seem correct to you. Thanks for your help Edited August 26, 2018 by Lunokhod 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnlove_mk_II Posted August 27, 2018 Share Posted August 27, 2018 Wow, that heat shield looks amazing. Great work! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aussie-Pete Posted August 27, 2018 Share Posted August 27, 2018 Here's 1 of my prints from the weekend. It's 1/60th free model from thingyverse Not sure where the designer got his details it's a little lacking but still possibly more detail than the Dragon F1 engine. If when complete it looks better I might replace all 5 with 1/72 versions. the bell dia is 60mm. Little too big for the Dragon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aussie-Pete Posted August 27, 2018 Share Posted August 27, 2018 (edited) 8 hours ago, Lunokhod 2 said: I did my first print today. It was half a success and half a failure. I wanted to print a part of the aft heat shield of the 1/32 service module I am currently designing (the part in cyan below). It's a small part about 5 cm diameter so I didn't want to spend too much time on printing (about 1h30). The layer thickness was 0.05 mm, the normal exposure time 8 s and the offtime 3 s. As you can see on the following pictures half of the part was nicely done with very crispy details such as the rivets but the other part was completely messed up. Two possible explanations, 1) there is a tendancy of succion for flat surfaces towards the liquid resin which can create a deformation, 2) as you can see below there is a hollow in the part where the liquid resin will stay and its only way to get out is if you have a bended side. I think the two things happened together since when the part was finished the remaining liquid resin dropped from the wrong side mainly. So I will try again by inclining the part. I expect it will work this time. Wish me luck. And I also would like to know whether the parameters (layer thickness 0.05 mm, normal exposure time 8 s, off time 3 s) seem correct to you. Thanks for your help I had quite some trouble over the weekend. I'm still not convinced tilting is required on DLP printers but the printer settings are more likely to impact. Exposure time for me is 6.5 Off time I think is 12 The raft is 1mm and use medium supports with medium contact points. I'll post settings I was given later. Otherwise a great piece of detail. Edited August 27, 2018 by Aussie-Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
niart17 Posted August 28, 2018 Author Share Posted August 28, 2018 If I'm understanding the physics right, I think the tilting is recommended so that the first layers of the part have a smaller cross-section than the layers above them to prevent a "suction" force keeping the part attached to the bottom of the resin vat for the first few part layers. At least that's what I've read. But I agree that doesn't seem to make sense, because even the test model that comes with the Anycubic has a larger solid round base that it prints first and then goes down to a point of the cube part. I'm still studying and figuring out what effect what. Right now I've put printing on hold since I have to print in my garage and we've had some 100 degree days lately. I'd imagine printing in such high heat and humidity won't yield good results. Should start having cooler weather soon I hope. Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SERNAK Posted August 28, 2018 Share Posted August 28, 2018 If I only had the ESCI F-5A in CAD files.... Great printer Bill! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ralf Posted August 29, 2018 Share Posted August 29, 2018 Results vary with the type of used resin. Here is a link to the slicer settings for the Anycubic Photon. And this article from Formlabs is quite helpful for understanding orientation. Hope this helps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aussie-Pete Posted August 29, 2018 Share Posted August 29, 2018 18 hours ago, niart17 said: If I'm understanding the physics right, I think the tilting is recommended so that the first layers of the part have a smaller cross-section than the layers above them to prevent a "suction" force keeping the part attached to the bottom of the resin vat for the first few part layers. At least that's what I've read. But I agree that doesn't seem to make sense, because even the test model that comes with the Anycubic has a larger solid round base that it prints first and then goes down to a point of the cube part. I'm still studying and figuring out what effect what. Right now I've put printing on hold since I have to print in my garage and we've had some 100 degree days lately. I'd imagine printing in such high heat and humidity won't yield good results. Should start having cooler weather soon I hope. Bill A large flat area should be tilted for that reason. Keep the raft larger than the surface contact area of the model. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lunokhod 2 Posted August 29, 2018 Share Posted August 29, 2018 Success after tilting the part, I choose a 0.03 mm resolution for the layer thickness, a normal exposure time of 8 s and an off time of 2 s. The only problem is that the Slicer program estimated a printing time of 4.5 hrs when it actually took 7.5 hrs. Do you have any explanation about this discrepancy or should I double the time for a good estimate before printing. I am very impressed by the final result. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted August 29, 2018 Share Posted August 29, 2018 Most excellent! Looks like affordability and suitability for scale modeling have been demonstrated! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnlove_mk_II Posted August 29, 2018 Share Posted August 29, 2018 That's beautiful. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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