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niart17

Bought a Printer!

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Thanks John. I think I'm going to model the upper stage 3 stringer section and instrument ring. I'm not too happy with the look of what I have from the kit. So now I have to find enough source pics to get as many of the features as I can. I think judging by the diameter of that, I could print it in 2 halves. Still haven't gotten to print the fairings yet but hope to do that soon.

 

Bill

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Very nice results indeed however I saw on the Anycubic web site that a bottle of resin costs $1000. That seems very expensive to me since I saw WANHAO resin for about $60. Is that really the price ?

Edited by Lunokhod 2

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I haven't seen any $1000 resin. For a while it was hard to find the refills for Anycubic, but I think they are listed on Amazon again for right at $50 for 500ml.

 

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The AnyCubic printer is really a good price compare to a formlabs 2 for instance. I am just wondering what would be the results with small and tiny parts, basically the one requiring Frosted Ultra or Extreme Detail on Shapeways. So if someone is willing to try printing this kind of part I am ready to send you an STL file. Any idea about the minimum thickness and rod diameter that can be printed ?

Edited by Lunokhod 2

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I was curious about that as well. I think I'm going to print something by downloading one of the .stl files I'd uploaded to Shapeways back onto my computer and see how it prints in comparion to a FUD part. I may try one of the Star Destroyer bridge domes or something fragile like that. As for the rod thickness. I'll have to research how that would work since it's using a DLP source. I would imagine the resolution of the light source would dictate the minimum print sizes

 

Bill

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Vincent, the price on the resin must be a mistake because normally a bottle of Wanhao at Amazon costs 66 Euros for 1000ml. I believe could use any resin designated for 3d printing, even the Formlabs one (for the Form 1 they still sell them in bottles but at 160 € per bottle). So for a 1 liter bottle at a 3d print shop you pay about 70 € for Photocentric3d resin.

To your second question, the is a video on you tube click me there is a review of the Photon at 13:25 he shows a small castle. Amazing detail. I think your models would look great with this. I will buy a Photon in the next few weeks, I could then print something for you. 

 

Ralf

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These printers have a UV light in them, and use a smartphone screen as a mask, or filter, to print each individual layer.  So technically, the minimum feature size should be equal to the dimensions of each pixel on the screen - about 47 micron for the Photon, apparently (.047mm).

 

However.

 

There will be a certain amount of light bleeding as each layer cures, both around the individual pixels and through the clear plastic film used as a print surface, so it will be bigger than .047mm.  More importantly, it's printing against a clear plastic film - the printer exposes a layer, then lifts the build platform straight up, separating the part off the plastic film, before resetting for the next layer.  But when it starts lifting the part up, it's physically attached to that clear plastic film, and it has to break the adhesive bond with the plastic.  So the biggest failure point is if your resin is stuck more to the clear film than to the rest of your part.  So a .047mm wire is going to be really delicate, and will likely fail because it sticks to the film.  

 

That said, I'd guess you would probably be fairly safe sticking to Shapeways' design guidelines for FUD, as they're relatively coarse, but ultimately it will depend on the resin and your settings.  It's NOT a plug-and-play device.  You will deal with a lot of frustration and failure as you figure out how to use it, and any time you try a new material.  Running the printer is almost a hobby unto itself.  And a big part of it is 'dialing in' the settings for each individual resin - how long each layer gets exposed, how long the initial layers get exposed, etc.  You'll also have to change this for different layer heights - the settings you use for 20 micron layers will be different from the settings for 40 micron layers.  Theoretically this should be streamlined using Anycubic's own resins on the Photon, but there is a wide range of cheaper/better 3rd party resins out there, so you can expect to experiment if you try anything different.  There ARE a lot of good communities for these printers, and you can find spreadsheets detailing suggested settings for a wide range of resins, but still, every machine will be a little different, so it's a lot more involved than simply "pour in resin, press print".  https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1crvzMnt_8NJXAsABinoIhcOjE8l3h7s0L82Zlh1vkL8/htmlview#gid=0

 

-----

 

As for resin prices...  looks like they've just parked the listing on the Anycubic website (list a crazy-high price so nobody will buy it, but they can still keep the page up).  Pricing will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, and formula to formula, but broadly speaking, you can expect to pay around $50 - 100 per liter for resin.  Not cheap, but you probably won't be printing massive items, and you can minimize resin usage by hollowing out objects.

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5 hours ago, Lunokhod 2 said:

The AnyCubic printer is really a good price compare to a formlabs 2 for instance. I am just wondering what would be the results with small and tiny parts, basically the one requiring Frosted Ultra or Extreme Detail on Shapeways. So if someone is willing to try printing this kind of part I am ready to send you an STL file. Any idea about the minimum thickness and rod diameter that can be printed ?

If you have something in specific you'd like to see how it prints I'd be happy to try it out for you. Just let me know.

 

Bill

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