Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Well, the weather has been cooling so I started printing operations again. After a little tweaing with the settings, I was able to get some good prints for some Saturn V parts. These are the instrument ring and intertank areas of the upper stage. I like the grey resin but it does take quite a bit longer to print. There is also a VERY slight deformation along the top edge that should be fine once it's glued together and filled in. but if this were something needing to be more precise this might be an issue. I'll look at the files and see if I can figure out what cause the difference.

 

The upper instrument ring and inter tank:

IMAG2293.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

The lower stringer sections. You can see at the top of this seam the slight gap. Its not glued so it may actually totally go away with some glue. We'll see

 

Also, not sure what the white residue is from. It didn't show up on the other print of the instrument ring and I don't think it will be an issue after priming, but I do want to be careful and make sure it's nothing to worry about.

 

 

AFTE RING HALF SMALL.jpg

Edited by niart17
Link to post
Share on other sites

Here are all 4 pieces of the lower section so you can see how they will be fit together. That's only downfall of this size printer. Anything this large has to be cut into sections. Not a horrible thing but it does add to the potential for errors and flaws. But still think it's worth it not having to post-print sand so much like with a larger FDM printer with it's build lines. Just my opinion.

 

AFT RING SMALL.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is a shot of some of the details that printed pretty well. This has been lightly primed with Tamiya rattle can off-white. I did make these parts quite a bit thicker than they needed to be but I knew there was going to be coaxing to get them to fit into a good cylinder and match the tube from the kit which isn't perfectly round. I had sand down one part quite a bit to lower the overall diameter to fit. Still have some filling and clean-up and sanding but overall happy with how it's coming out.

 

 

UPPER UMBILICAL.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

My best prints so far and it matches almost exactly my 1/32 CSM. After several trials, using heavy supports works better, at least I am sure the part will stay attached and not collapse. Another lesson is to make sure all extremities have a support and remove most of the support before the final UV cure as sometimes removing the support will also remove a bit of the part itself which is what happened on the third picture. The good thing however is that is easy to correct by adding a bit of resin with a toothpick, curing it with UV light and sanding it.

 

2018-110.jpg

 

2018-111.jpg

 

2018-112.jpg

 

2018-113.jpg

 

I am now thinking abaout buying a more classical 3D printer (with filament) for large parts. So far I am tempted by the Original Prusa i3 MK3 kit.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The Prusa i3 is a very nice printer. I've got the Mk 2.5 and I really like it. It is a bit loud compared to the MK3 which is really quiet. The quality is also very nice and not too far away from the Ultimaker 3 at a lower cost. The only real complaint was that Prusa took a very very long time until they shipped the printer. But it is a nice printer. Anycubic has a Prusa clone that also got good reviews and it is a bit cheaper.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...

My brain once again is trying to lead me into something in regards to the printing that'll I will need to have done for the Saturn V build. The person who was going to do it for me seems to have gotten cold feet over it all which means I'm back to shop pricing to get the stuff printed and they'll be a lot more expensive than what had been arranged. So now i'm actually weighing up maybe just getting a printer and trying to print the parts for myself instead. I have no experience in the subject but am willing to give it a crack. There's a free share ML/LUT out there also on the web which I already have the files for so it would enable me to have a go at that also perhaps. I can see a couple of good uses I would be getting out of it at the very least. I guess that's, IF I can learn how to use one properly to start with anyway. A few of you fellas are using them and the works look great that you are turning out which gives me some hope I may be able to achieve the same with a lil trial and error. I just have to decide if I should or shouldn't now..

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, I am not going to tell you not to do it, I think depending on perseverance and willingness to break through failures, anyone CAN learn how to get into 3D printing. I will say however it would be a really good idea to start with at least a good basic knowledge of 3D modeling software. I think that applies even if you're doing nothing but printing files that are provided by outside sources. Reason being, not all 3d files are going to be designed in such a way that would work well with whatever type of printer and software you decide to get. And that means that you'll likely have to do some amount of tweaking on some of the files in order to get the prints you want. The good news is there are some really good 3D modeleing programs out there that are pretty inexpensive or even free. So that in my opinion would be step 1. Even if that's just getting use to seeing how 3d models are constructed by various programs and being able to manipulate them in virtual space.

 

The next most important thing in my opinion is patience and research! Go in understanding that there is going to be failures and you are going to be wasting some amount of time and money on materials just through the process of learning. The tech is nowhere near the point of push a button and walk-away, come back later and have perfect parts every time. I think I have a pretty good understanding of 3D modeling since I've been doing it for a living for about 15 years or so. But 3d printing is still quite the learning curve for me. Granted I don't have as much time as I'd like to play with it and perfect the techniques so that's a factor in how fast my progress is. Others have jumped in and are way ahead of me as far as getting consistent results. But even companies like Shapeways, that have a team of techs working on getting prints right, still have failure rates they have to deal with. So just know it's going to happen.

 

Bottom line is do a LOT of research and make sure you have disposable income and time before you buy anything. Figure out what quality you're expecting and what size and type of prints you want. It may end up where you want to get more than one type printer and maybe by the time you're ready to buy something, the tech will be closer to plug and play. But know what you want before you get in otherwise your first experience is likely to disappoint and turn you away from it totally.  

 

I'm sure others here will jump in with their input. Listen to what everyone is saying and that may give you a better feel for the road ahead of you. It is a fun hobby and I personally think it's the future of manufacturing. Knowing how it works would be good for anyone I think.

 

Bill

Link to post
Share on other sites

Appreciate your thoughts and advice, Bill. Some of what you mention definitely leads me to the "shouldn't" side of thinking in regards to getting a printer. Trial and error I don't have a problem with but I'm not really sure I would be able to get a grasp on the 3d modelling side of it all. Some of that simply comes from my own confidence in my abilities when it comes to computers, which I will admit is very little. I'm the sort of person who has be more inclined to use a pad and ruler rather than learn new ways. Looking at it now it would have been a great idea to explore the different avenues but I guess I just never thought it was ever something I would be needing. Over some years now though I've seen some amazing things being created from the 3d modelling side of it but even then my thinking has always been it's outa my league that stuff. Now I wish I had taken more interest in learning how to do even basic stuff with a computer obviously. So when you mention some files may need to be tweaked to be able to print it could be an issue.


On the printing side of things I do feel more confident in myself. Learning how and what is required in settings,  best positioning for parts etc is something I think I would be able to get me head around a bit better. It may be a lot of pain in the process to be able to get good quality parts printing but that I feel is part of learning it all. I've always loved the practical side of things over the theory side. There is also some great communities out there for the subject that seem pretty happy to give advice when required which is a help. Bit like here!


So I guess right now I don't know what I'm doing. I had been looking at the Prusa mk3 for a printer after looking at lots of different ones and trying to keep within a budget. It seemed to get pretty good reviews, uses good parts and looks like it can print pretty good if you can find that sweet spot. Good enough for the parts I'll be needing to print for the Saturn V? It has a good size build area which is something I want otherwise it will require splitting most of the parts to be able to print them which would then require some of that tweaking side of it all. So something with a build area that will do what I need has been one priority. I also download the basic version slicing software for the mk3 to get a bit of an idea of how complicated that side of things is and that at least doesn't look too concerning, quite the opposite actually. I played around by throwing some of the LUT files on it and it has printer presets for different filaments with basic settings like quality, supports, infill, brim along with some object settings which is good for reducing the LUT files. It recommended using supports and a brim on some pieces and overall had me wishing I could try it out. It's a beginners software for sure but being a potential beginner it looks like it is perfect in that regard. Their other software they state is far more complex and can be intimidating for new users so I haven't looked at that yet. Thing is with the preset settings available in the basic version it may do the job fine for the detail level I want. This measuring cup was printed as a test by some crowd using the basic software and I think looks pretty good actually. I'd be pretty happy with that level of quality for the skirts etc on the build from what I can see. 

 

Untitled.jpg.747e2904c4133cece5712eefb3dceb7d.jpg


Anyway thanks again and I'll just have ta keep thinking about it all a bit longer and try and learn a bit more about the whole process in the meantime.
 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I would agree with Bill here that 3d modeling is an important part of the whole 3d printing process. I am an educator and teach technicians the use of 3d printing mostly for prototyping stuff. The 3d printing process is basically not too complicated depending what you want to do with it. The devil is in the details especially if you want to make models with a certain level of surface details.
Working with a 3d printer is not too difficult depending on the model. There are some than work mostly out of the box, others require much more tinkering. Another thing to remember is the technology used. FDM printers are nowadays relatively reliable and produce decent results. But there are still visible print marks and lines to address. So priming and sanding the parts will be a necessary step. There is also the resolution a printer can print. 1/144 scale details will be very difficult to achieve with this technology.
SLA or DPL printer’s produces a very nice finish and a good level of details. BUT they are either very expensive (like the FORM 2) or require a lot of work and tinkering like the photon.
For a beginner I would definitely recommend an FDM printer. They are not too expensive and too complicated. With standard settings most prints should work out fine right from the start.
Bu for modelling purposes I think learning a 3d modelling software is a must. As Bill says some parts are not constructed right for 3d printing. Or there isn’t the right thing available. So, the ability to create something from scratch is very useful. In my experience it takes about a year to get proficient in a CAD program or 3d modelling, depending on resources like time and dedication. There are a ton of free tutorials on you tube, also some that you have to pay for. So, this learning part has become much easier. There are also a ton of projects available and people doing great stuff and sharing those projects. Sites like https://www.instructables.com/
have complete courses as well as the makers of CAD software like Autodesk. I would recommend to download a free software like Fusion360 and try one or two beginners’ tutorials. Most CAD software works more or less the same. If you master the basics than you can see if it fits for you. Here is a complete course for 3d printing: https://www.instructables.com/class/Easy-3D-Printing/

For the 3d print part, perhaps there is a Makerspace or something similar in your area. There you could try the process and find people who could help you get to speed. In most cities there are now specialized 3d print shops where you also can get help and print stuff.
For the printer itself, the Prusa i3 is very decent printer. The slicer works well and produces nice results. After a while you can work on different profiles and improve the settings.

I hope this helps a bit. And feel free to ask if you have further questions.             

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the input and those couple of links also. I will check out that class during the week. I've spent a bit of today reading some beginner guides on some of the aspects of printing which has explained some basic stuff. There's going to be a lot to learn before I wont need someone holding my hand but so far things I have searched for to know I've been able to find an answer for. I was just introduced to supports and how anything with a 45 deg overhang or more will require some. I don't think my Saturn V parts should be too bad being printed in the vertical position but some of the LUT pieces I can see will need support. I've downloaded a couple of different slicer software now as well to just play around with things and see what they do. On the screen at least. 

 

Ther is no doubt that understanding the modelling side of it is a great benefit for the printing side of it. I sit here today wishing I knew how it was done. I really take my hat off to you people that not only do it but do it so well. I agree that the printing side of it and modelling side of it go hand in hand and is good reason to try and get a grasp on at least the basics of that side of things. Right now though i'm just like a kid who wants to play a little and learn as I go and as the files are being produced for me with the intention of being used to print from I'm hoping the files will be good to go as is. The designer has created plenty of models in the past to be printed so hopefully no issues with the parts he'll be modelling for me.

 

There are shops around the place that do operate like Shapeways and you can simply have them print the file for you. Cost while I wouldn't expect them to be as expensive as Shapeways still would not be cheap. I'm sure their prints would be pretty nice though and also would give the option of perhaps being a resin print depending on their work size available. The cost for what I want to get done being the size pieces they are in 72nd scale though will be pretty pricey which has me on this thinking now. What was lined up to be done was too good to be true and as it turns out it was! 

 

There's no real rush to make a decision on getting a printer or just having the prints done by a shop. If I get one though I get to learn a bit about it all and have an option to do the LUT or other things down the track, if things are working out with it all. If they aren't it will require working out what i'm doing wrong and fixing it. The designer of the files has asked about some particulars though he'll need to know about and take into account for his files. Those things at this stage I can't answer for him until I know what road I will go down. Sort of have till the end of the month before he was going to start so a bit of time to make the mind up. 

 

Cheers

Phil

Link to post
Share on other sites

All 3d printed on an Anycubic Photon. Best bang for buck resin printer out there.
Most of the resin printers for home use have very similar specs. But the Photon is 1/2 the price of the next.
There are on going costs with DLP printers. Obviously resin at $AU80ish per litre. LCD screens are consumable. Part of the cost of using UV to print (it destroys the LCD over time)
 

I use Fusion360 software. It's free for home modelers and pretty easy with heaps of online tutorials

Link to post
Share on other sites

I’ve spent the weekend doing some CAD stuff and I also upgraded my Anycubic Photon. One thing I didn’t like was the smell of the resin when the printer is running. Putting the printer in the basement is quite annoying and it stinks too with less ventilation.

So I’ve modded the Photon and added a fan and a hepa filter for fume extraction. This is not too complicated and took only about half an hour to make. First there is a need for some adapter and a funnel for the filter, which can be designed with a CAD program. The top panel can be removed and instead the funnel is added. The fan is a simple quiet computer case one with an extension cord. To get power to the fan, I’ve removed the internal fan of the Anycubic disconnected the internal fan cable and put the new cable in. I’ve checked that all worked and then closed the case. I’ve also made some cover for the hole of the interior fan which isn’t needed anymore. Then I sealed the small gaps between the fan and the plate. After that I printed some parts as a test run and no more smell.       

 

45719017065_7aee7b21ef_k.jpg

 

And here is the finished modded Photon:

 

45719019305_6ad6d8b4f7_k.jpg

 

All in all a quick and easy project. 

Cheers Ralf

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/12/2018 at 10:10 AM, Lunokhod 2 said:

My best prints so far and it matches almost exactly my 1/32 CSM. After several trials, using heavy supports works better, at least I am sure the part will stay attached and not collapse. Another lesson is to make sure all extremities have a support and remove most of the support before the final UV cure as sometimes removing the support will also remove a bit of the part itself which is what happened on the third picture. The good thing however is that is easy to correct by adding a bit of resin with a toothpick, curing it with UV light and sanding it.

 

2018-110.jpg

 

2018-111.jpg

 

2018-112.jpg

 

2018-113.jpg

 

I am now thinking abaout buying a more classical 3D printer (with filament) for large parts. So far I am tempted by the Original Prusa i3 MK3 kit.

Vincent, you need to make the ones for that go through the clear section as one piece, man sanding them when not using the interior is a bear.  Also, never realized that the lower ones are actually flush with the outside skin.

Edited by dekon70
Link to post
Share on other sites

The largest radiators are for sectors 2 & 3 while the smaller one is for sector 6. If you want to replace the radiator on the clear section (sector 5) you can just use the largest radiators which are identical for both sectors 2 &3 and sectors 5 & 6.

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/6/2019 at 11:42 AM, ralf said:

I’ve spent the weekend doing some CAD stuff and I also upgraded my Anycubic Photon. One thing I didn’t like was the smell of the resin when the printer is running. Putting the printer in the basement is quite annoying and it stinks too with less ventilation.

So I’ve modded the Photon and added a fan and a hepa filter for fume extraction. This is not too complicated and took only about half an hour to make. First there is a need for some adapter and a funnel for the filter, which can be designed with a CAD program. The top panel can be removed and instead the funnel is added. The fan is a simple quiet computer case one with an extension cord. To get power to the fan, I’ve removed the internal fan of the Anycubic disconnected the internal fan cable and put the new cable in. I’ve checked that all worked and then closed the case. I’ve also made some cover for the hole of the interior fan which isn’t needed anymore. Then I sealed the small gaps between the fan and the plate. After that I printed some parts as a test run and no more smell.       

 

45719017065_7aee7b21ef_k.jpg

 

And here is the finished modded Photon:

 

45719019305_6ad6d8b4f7_k.jpg

 

All in all a quick and easy project. 

Cheers Ralf

 

That's a great mod! I may have to do something like that as well. I'm currently printing in the garage, which isn't very well insulated so I'm sure the weather changes can affect the prints as well as the electronics in the printer itself. 

 

Speaking of electronics. I'm curious if you guys with the Anycubic Photon have the same issue I've noticed about my printer. It doesn't happen every time, but often enough to be of concern. Sometimes when I start a print, about 5 minutes into the print it pretty much just stops. The fan shuts down and it kind of locks up. I have to turn it off and back on and then hit print and it starts back where it was. It got to the point where now my print process is I will start a print without the resin or the build plate attached to let it run. If after 10 minutes it doesn't shut down, I'll stop the print and restart with the resin. It doesn't ever shut down after the second restart. Anyone else have anything like this happen? I haven't seen anything on the forums about it. It was doing this before I moved it to the garage so I don't think that has anything to do with it. I probably should contact Anycubic to find a real solution though.

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/7/2019 at 7:27 AM, Lunokhod 2 said:

The largest radiators are for sectors 2 & 3 while the smaller one is for sector 6. If you want to replace the radiator on the clear section (sector 5) you can just use the largest radiators which are identical for both sectors 2 &3 and sectors 5 & 6.

Hi Vincent,  I looked on your Shapeways store, but could not find them.  Are they listed there?

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Started playing around last night with some basic learning tasks and although it's going to take a bit of time to get use to the different commands I do have some of them sort of sussed already. So today I thought I would try and do something for myself with what I have picked up last night. You fellas mentioning it'd  be a good thing to understand has been playing on my mind and I think I've just been reluctant to give it a go. I always thought it'd be too hard to learn for myself. So I figured something pretty basic is obviously a good place to start for me just to see how things would go and I must say even though it is early with things, I'm really happy with how things are going so far. I've never done anything like this in a computer before and it actually is very pleasing to see something come together this way. For those that really can do it I already can see how good it must be to do the work in this way. Us that are use to the pencil and pad are a bit behind with things I guess...

 

y4mAoKCk921Xj5OZLHrkFvsXhrUNWVs_-xKshURW

 

I couldn't find or perhaps more so, understand the plans properly to get it all perfect but I think it looks the part. I couldn't see the dimensions of the stringers so just went with what I have. It's scaled in 1/72 and I think I made them 3mm wide. It's been fun and am pretty happy with what I have already picked up. Remembering and learning the harder stuff might be a challenge but thus far I'm keen for more. Thanks again for the advice earlier fellas! 👍

 

 

y4mz2xT_7Ylk8UdTkDQnlkUSnD4nzENqusPUXKzI

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...