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18 hours ago, zaxos345 said:

Really nice work!!! Keep it up!!! 

 

John

Thanks for your encouraging words, John.

 

6 hours ago, Falcon50EX said:

I like what i am seeing.

On the subject of washes, i recently finished a Vickers VC10 in BOAC markings and during the course of the build, i experimented with panel line washes on white. It seems i had the best luck with using a very light gray and then progressively darkening it.

Black will NOT work.

Dark Gull Grey will NOT work.

Neutral Grey will NOT work.

The light compass ghost greys start to get into the ball park. The best description i saw of panel line treatments to me is what Roy Sutherland said: if done right, the panel lines should be *almost* invisible from 3 feet away.

Please forgive me, if i sound a little too dogmatic about this....

 

-d-

 

10-342.jpg

DH TBM-3 008A.JPG

Thanks, David; first, let me say those are great models.

 

Great tip on building up the color for panel lines over white, and also, what you said about being invisible from 3 ft. apart, applies to the riveting in this case.

 

I think the treatment of washes is as relevant as the paint itself, and I take care of them from the construction stage; it annoys me when a panel line ends nowhere or doesn't retain the wash.

 

 I'm still learning and trying different ways to get the best effect, a balance between adding interest to the paint and highlighting the details of the model but not distracting from the overall look. Choosing the right color is essential for this.

 

Speaking of panel lines, here is a link to a YouTube channel of a modeler with a standard so high that even Hasegawa doesn't meet his threshold. Nevertheless, his work is impressive and recommended (the century series are my favorites).

 

Linky

 

 

Edited by cruiz
Misspelled
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Almost done with the washes; I went for Tamiya's gray for the rivets in the Sea blue areas but used AMMO's black night for the panel lines.

 

km692mL.jpg

 

This combination of colors may not be accurate, but I like how it looks; initially, I was planning to use a lighter color for the panel lines but chose a dark one to represent shadows and dirt accumulation.

 

This model is resisting getting finished; even if I carefully removed the wash, part of the paint in the insignia peeled off, and I'll have to make some touch-ups.

 

arUth36.jpg

 

On the underside, the work was a little easier; dark sea blue wash for the panel lines and rivets on the medium blue areas and medium grey for the white ones; both washes from AMMO. It may not seems like it, but there is a notable difference between using the blue and gray washes on the white area.

 

2OZhCBZ.jpg

 

On a side note, the cardboard under the model is a makeshift painting stand I made in a rush from a small box; I wish I'd made it before to save me from many troubles during the build. I need to get a proper stand for my next model.

 

Thanks for watching

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On 8/14/2022 at 6:30 PM, Falcon50EX said:

Looks good!

Thanks, David.

 

Moving on with more weathering.

 

Inspired by the work of other modelers, I wanted to represent what I think are fuel spills over the fuselage; I didn't find much photographic evidence of this, but I'm representing stained paint by airbrushing diluted Hellblau RLM 65 from AMMO.

 

g9X4Bc2.jpg

 

This color will serve as a base for further work with oils to represent grime accumulation over it.

 

DfJGLgn.jpg

 

As some may have noticed, I removed the masks of the fuselage. In some pictures, instead of the white tape used to seal the gaps, Corsairs have a darker color in this area.

 

My theory is that in those cases, the dark color is just the original paint preserved under the tape; this is my way of replicating the effect.

 

The spills run over the wings, so the discoloring was extended to the flaps also.

 

KtnXHR0.jpg

 

The next step is to paint the exhaust stains under the fuselage; Corsairs have a distinctive pattern in this area; I'll be using Tamiya's smoke for the first time; any advice will be welcome.

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Exhaust stains.

 

The first time I used Tamiya's smoke for this, I liked the hue; honestly, I don't know if it's intended for this kind of work or tinting canopies due to the glossy finish, but it was easier than using pigments to create this pattern.

 

LD9zaQv.jpg

 

yLj71ax.jpg

 

Thanks for watching.
 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Before starting working with oils, the model got another coat of Tamiya's X-22 to protect the current weathering and washes.

 

After seeing several videos in the past months on how to apply oils, I felt confident about this step, but the minute I was about to start, I just froze; I didn't know what to do.

 

I went over my references and other builds online to better understand what I wanted; I decided to approach the weathering not as a whole but as a group of individual sections, each one telling its history.

 

Starting with the fuselage's fuel tank stains, I tried to recreate how the fuel discolors the paint and drags dirt and grime along the fuselage.

 

iqDIsvz.jpg

 

I used a green filter over the light grey previously airbrushed and then made leak runs using Earth and Filth colors.

 

The panel at the left is removed for maintenance often, so I want to recreate how the handling by the mechanics would give it a different color, especially around the edges, using Earth and Filth colors.

 

V6Adyfe.jpg

 

For the wings, I started with a Dust color filter over the areas where the mechanics walked to service the guns and refuel the plane.

 

n8bR4Al.jpg

 

I heard that radial engines are notorious for leaking oil; so I represented the oil creeping through the joint on the cowling; gravity will accumulate it more on the back when the plane is sitting, and airflow will drag it over the cowling flaps.

 

BDfQev4.jpg

 

All of this was made using AMMO's Oilbrushes, still more work to do.

 

Thanks for watching.

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Thank you guys, @kellyF15, @Mr.Happy, @chukw, for your kind words.

 

I am experimenting with different colors to build up the weathering; I try to get what would be a fresh layer of dirt and grime over a broader but softer base of stains and wear.

 

MaK6EuA.jpg

 

An example of telling a story, the access panels for servicing the guns are weathered accordingly.

 

pk1vLr2.jpg

 

The first two parts fold over themself while the third is removable, so I tried to represent the stains created while handling them by the edges; these stains could be a mix of grease and dirt compared to the rest of the wing, which is mostly dirt from boots.

 

ZmYiE3D.jpg

 

Adding effects to one area will prompt you to revisit another to maintain equilibrium; here is the cowling with more stains.

 

KrI1Zo4.jpg

 

Contrary to several tutorial recommendations, I'm making the oils over a gloss surface to remove them in case of a significant screwup; I'll apply a flat coat, and maybe I have to add more oil work if the current effect gets muted by it.

 

Thanks again for your interest and support.

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On 9/10/2022 at 6:26 PM, cruiz said:

Thank you guys, @kellyF15, @Mr.Happy, @chukw, for your kind words.

 

I am experimenting with different colors to build up the weathering; I try to get what would be a fresh layer of dirt and grime over a broader but softer base of stains and wear.

 

MaK6EuA.jpg

 

An example of telling a story, the access panels for servicing the guns are weathered accordingly.

 

pk1vLr2.jpg

 

The first two parts fold over themself while the third is removable, so I tried to represent the stains created while handling them by the edges; these stains could be a mix of grease and dirt compared to the rest of the wing, which is mostly dirt from boots.

 

ZmYiE3D.jpg

 

Adding effects to one area will prompt you to revisit another to maintain equilibrium; here is the cowling with more stains.

 

KrI1Zo4.jpg

 

Contrary to several tutorial recommendations, I'm making the oils over a gloss surface to remove them in case of a significant screwup; I'll apply a flat coat, and maybe I have to add more oil work if the current effect gets muted by it.

 

Thanks again for your interest and support.

I think that's a safe move, in case of screwups. One place on the F4U which i've never seen anybody do quite right, is the oil leakage that comes out of the cylinder heads and rocker covers right behind the cowl flaps and gives the forward fuselage that darker, oilier colour. The fuel leaks coming out of the fuel filler cap.... i see that depicted all the time.

 

-d-

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Thanks, Steve; we miss seeing your work around here.

 

Thanks, Dutch.

 

Thanks, David; I have to check my references closely because it's not easy to spot the stains behind the cowling; maybe I'll add them after the matt coat.

 

The weathering on the underside is in progress; this time, I'm using W&N oils; they are still fresh and not thoroughly blended.

 

nuletg0.jpg

 

The colors are different mixes of black, blue, red, green, white, and ochre yellow.

 

ca7CvDh.jpg

 

This build is starting to exasperate me; while blending the oils with mineral spirits, the clear coat on the fuselage's underside started to peel off along with Tamiya's smoke.

 

ye0e6P3.jpg

 

I removed the clear coat on the damaged panels so that the oncoming repair job can be less evident; I'm still unsure how I'll do this.

 

Thanks for watching.

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  • 1 month later...

Hello all

 

Little progress was made on the model these past weeks because I've been busier than usual at work, but I wanted to share it anyway.

 

JVNvjCp.jpg

 

First, the canopy got a matt coat of AMMO's Lucky Varnish; before adding the internal details, I fixed the piece to a cardboard jig to support it firmly and minimize the handling (1).

 

Using AMMO's 0.01mm rigging line, I emulated the wiring mechanism along the front frame, using black cyano to glue it (2).

 

I removed the internal masking (3), which revealed some scratches  I don't remember being there before, but I hope it wouldn't be too noticeable.

 

At this point, I cut the heads of the three supports in the frame's center, which were there to facilitate the rigging, but in the last one, I also cut the line by mistake. While trying to repair this section of the line, the cyano reacted with the adjacent rigging line and started to lose tension and sagged; in the end, I had to replace most of it.

 

Finally, I placed the mirrors, included with the Aires set, in the predrilled holes inside the frame (4). The following steps are to give another matt coat before removing the external masking and then to place the red button that goes through the glass on the right side.

 

bVyt0hV.jpg

 

In the previous post, I showed the fuselage's underside, where I damaged the finish while attempting some weathering; this is the section after working to repair the damage; still not perfect, but further weathering should give it the effect I desired in the beginning.

 

sWwNfVE.jpg

 

I started to apply the matt coat on the underside; here is an example of how it's going; I'll add more weathering effects when fully cured.

 

1JDUHVS.jpg

 

That's all for now; comments, critiques, and advice are welcome; thanks for watching.
 

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  • 2 weeks later...

More progress but sprinkled with setbacks.

 

I removed the masks on the canopy, but some of the liquid maskings refused to come off, so I had to use IPA to get them off; in the process, I got a drop of it over the frame that turned glossy.

 

The flaws are evident without the masking, uneven edges on the framing, and multiple scratches on the transparent areas; also, more cleaning was necessary on the interior, during which I broke off two of the mirrors.

 

Yy67iVM.jpg

 

I believe I made the scratches while working on the interior framing and the liquid masking wasn't strong enough to protect it; in the future, I'll use masking tape, which also will make cleaning easier. I'll not attempt to correct them this time, hoping they will not be too noticeable.

 

For the uneven edges, I'll try to correct the most evident areas using metallic paint to emulate chipping. Finally, I'll paint the interior of the frame's handles and place the red button left of the sign.

 

The top of the model is airbrushed with AMMO's Lucky Varnish matt; I liked the result and how the weathering wasn't toned down. I'll try some more oils over the model after a test on my mule.

 

5lM5xLF.jpg

 

27Il8Eu.jpg

 

That's all for now, thanks for watching.
 

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17 hours ago, Falcon50EX said:

Mee Likee!

 

Do you think some toothpaste and a cotton t-shirt might smooth out the canopy framing?

 

Glad you like it; a soft cloth would suffice to smooth the edges; I'm afraid anything more abrasive could remove the varnish or even the paint.

 

5 hours ago, Mr.Happy said:

Cruiz,

 

I like what you’ve done with your U bird. The subtle weathering and paint chipping is really making it more attractive to the eye. 
 

Keep building my friends,

 

Mr.Happy

 

Thanks; I'll try to enhance the weathering further in some areas to add interest.

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  • 3 weeks later...

The canopy tests my patience's boundaries; fix one thing, then break another. Eventually, one of the two will prevail (hopefully me).

 

Instead of adding more weathering to individual pieces, I'll start to assemble them; this way, further effect work will be a little more complicated but cohesive.

 

Some progress: the tail gear and doors were glued in place without much problem, sanded the paint away to use Tamiya glue, and reinforced with black cyano.

 

RQ34fTk.jpg

 

The exhausts were another story; since I didn't plan for a positive attachment point, several rounds of carving and test fit were necessary to get the exhausts aligned and conforming to the fuselage.

 

axnFqgF.jpg

 

In hindsight, the exhaust tubes should be of a slightly smaller diameter, but that were the only rods I had at the time.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks, Mr.Happy and BastianD; glad you like it.

 

Little progress so far; the landing gears are becoming more challenging than anticipated.

 

The Aires front doors were chosen instead of the kit ones because of the better detail and are thinner; the drawbacks are that they are not symmetric between them and require a deal of work to attach and align them; as is my tradition, I managed to damage parts of the gears which required more rework.

 

LH1Kf0r.jpg

 

Following the tip shared by Tommy, aka @Tailspin Turtle, I added the flexible covers for the front doors; they are made from paper and molded using VMS Paper Shaper.

 

Most of the time has been invested in test-fitting the landing gears to the wing; this work is essential to ensure the best alignment possible because the Aires wells don't provide a firm attaching point or a positioning reference.

 

During the previous, I broke one of the oleo struts, glued it back, and reinforced both to the nearby structure using cyano because I realized these would be the only others fixing points to bear the loads on the landing gears.

 

That's all for now, thanks for watching.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 12/5/2022 at 9:23 AM, Falcon50EX said:

The gear struts look very nice. I got burned out trying to rig the brake lines on mine, so that/s where my 48th scale Corsair is roadblocked right now.

That sucks, David; I know the feeling, but I'm sure you will move forward with it.

 

Here I have a little progress after much work; the main gear is glued in place; this was a slow and demanding process.

 

First, I scraped the paint on the legs' base and cleaned inside the wells' supports; I sanded and trimmed carefully until I was sure both legs could be positioned and aligned with the jig I had made previously.

 

The leg on the right was the first to be glued in place using a mix of black cyano and acrylic powder; I fixed the leg to the jig using liquid masking to keep it aligned while the cyano cured (I forgot to take pictures of this).

 

The cyano and powder mix takes days to cure fully, so I kept the remains of the mix as a control sample; I removed the jig after it hardened completely.

 

Once the right leg was secure, it was time to work on the left; that's when the fun began.

 

The jig I was using only helped to align the legs regarding the vertical axis (viewed from the front) and for the shafts of the wheels to be at the same height; all of this can be ok, and still having the legs completely misaligned on the other axes as I discovered when the jig was removed and viewed them from the side.

 

The misalignment was so bad that I had to remove about a quarter of the leg's base, trimming a little each time and checking by eye until it was corrected; during this process, I managed to brake some details in the leg that I had to repair (as always).

 

The result wasn't so bad, and there's still room for further alignment when the wheels are attached.

 

kRxcZIA.jpg

 

uqhMkqv.jpg

 

xYA7JId.jpg

 

OAmnvNc.jpg

 

The next step is to attach the ailerons and flaps, which you can see dry-fitted in the pics; this promises to be more challenging than the legs' saga.
 

P.S. as you can see, I'm now using a proper stand for the model and a different photo booth that can fit the entire model.

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