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3 hours ago, Falcon50EX said:

Hey did the lower edges of the canopy clean up okay? It's a frustrating aspect of working with vacform canopies...

Yes, Falcon, I'll take pictures later; just a few passes with a knife and some sanding. I believe I just forgot to clean this area before because the part was stored for months.


1 hour ago, Mr.Happy said:



You have set the bar on excellence with this build.  It’s truly amazing to see your updates on the U-bird. I’m amazed buy your canopy handles and other attention to detail.


We are eagerly awaiting the final revel. 

Take care,


Mr. Happy


Thank you, Mr. Happy; I want to see it finished, too, it's taking more than I thought, but I'm learning a lot with this build.


25 minutes ago, chukw said:

Brilliant stuff, Carlos! Those flat bottom cutters- would you be so kind as to post a link? They seem invaluable!


Thank you, Chuck; here is the link; there are more sizes in the store. 




Also, other options are more robust but also pricey.



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There's no going back on this one; I was a little nervous, but the cut ended clean and the paint undamaged; now to paint over these along with the red outline and the fuel caps.




Here's my advice for anyone considering this tool; it cuts better counterclockwise with almost no pressure applied; drill the pilot hole to an adequate depth because the tool doesn't cut in the center point.


@Falcon50EX Here are pics of the canopy with the clean edges.






Thanks for watching.

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Nice looking work.   I did the Tamiya 32nd Corsair a year or so, it was a fun build.   I'm very impressed by all the details you are adding to this one, especially since it's in 48th! 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thank you for your words, 11bee, Falcon50EX.


After much thinking, I finally decided to fill the kit's misplaced fuel caps; I used Vallejo's putty to minimize damage to the paint and markings.


Since this was a first for me, I tried different approaches for each wing; an excess of putty on the right and, because of the marking being too close, a careful application on the left one; here are the parts after sanding before painting.






After painting over, the results differed; on the right, paint revealed a bump of putty in what seemed to be a smooth finish before; on the left, the result was much better, with only a few unfilled spots but almost unnoticeable.






Along with the above, some spots on the model received needed touch-ups; the canopy also received a coat of paint.




To hold small parts for painting, I usually wrap masking tape around a wooden stick; this time, I tried using a layer of Vallejo's masking fluid over the latter; this thing is very sticky; after it dries, place the parts, and they stay firmly attached to it. Here are the fuel caps painted.




Lastly, added a minor detail; a loop of copper wire was super-glued into a hole drilled in the leading edge of the stabilator; this loop will serve to attach the aerial's end.




That's all for now; thanks for watching.



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On 5/22/2022 at 7:31 PM, Falcon50EX said:

I likez what i am seeing, Carlos 🙂


At this level of the game, there's a lot of going back and fixing things you see wrong, since you can't "Un-See" them...




Indeed @Falcon50EX; it's a balancing game of what needs to be done, what can be done, and what omissions I can live with.


Regarding the fuel caps, you mentioned a red circle surrounds them, is the circle on the caps themself or in the plane's skin outside the opening? Unfortunately, I couldn't find any pictures for reference.

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I learned this very late in the game, but looking at photos, it appears that the cap itself was Navy non spec blue, with a red ring around the filler cap. I would achieve this by simply masking and spraying the red, with the cap removed, and then simply insert the cap after the red was applied. Its not a particularly huge ring but its enough to see. Discovered it by accident from a colour photo taken from the forward fuselage looking aft towards the windscreen. It was an F4U-1D but see no reason why it would not be the same on an F4U-1A.


Let me consult the 32 scale Tamiya F4U-1A instructions to see if they provide any more guidance on this...



Edited by Falcon50EX
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Well, having gone back thru my references again, i'm of the opinion that the cap itself was red, with no surrounding circle. I say that because there are fairly good photos of F4U-1 Birdcages with red caps, but as we go into the F4U-1A photos, the subject gets murkier. Some caps are clearly contrasting and visible, but many are a lot less prominent.


The guidance from the Tamiya 32nd scale kit says to paint the cap itself XF-7, flat red. Since the 32 scale Tamiya kit represented an entirely original, from the ground up effort with cooperation from Grumman, i'd say Tamiy's paint callouts are about as close to authoritative as you can get.


I hope this helps and has proven to be enlightening, and not frustrating.



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Thank you, @Falcon50EX, for clarifying and for taking the time to respond; almost none of the pictures I have shows the fuel caps on the -1A in a clear way, but I find pics of the -1 and -1D that have caps in a different hue, likely red, which makes it more likely for the 1A also.


At first, I assumed it would be a circle around the opening like in other aircraft and have all masked and ready to paint, but I wanted to confirm first.

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well, i DID see exactly what you mentioned in a colour photo.... but it was on a -1D. I still plan to try exactly that on a GSB Corsair build, at some point. However i have 3 F4U-1s Corsairs in various stages of construction on my Shelf of Doom i need to work off first.



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Hello guys


Since this build Is becoming too slow, I gave myself one more chance to improve the filling on the fuel caps; here are both wings after a new round of filling and before painting.




After painting, the right turned out better, but the left one not so much; fortunately, being close to the national emblem isn't too noticeable.




I made several dry fits before gluing the new fuel caps to ensure they leveled with the wing surface; flattening the holes' bottoms made this task easier. In the next pic, you can see one of the new caps and the added detail to the plunger; I used a plastic rod to fill it and painted it red afterward.




As you can see in the picture above, I started applying more stencils of the HGW's set; the printing isn't sharp, and most of the lettering isn't readable, but they add interest to the model.


On the other hand, I'm happy with how they are easy to apply and also very forgiving; several minutes after applying the wing's black stripe, I realized that it was misaligned; at this point, the setting solution had already melted the carrier film, but I was able to reposition it adding water and slowly dragging it back to place. The decal didn't tear up, and I just added more Mr. Mark Setter as a precaution to preserve the adhesion.


The markings on the cowling are from HGW also.




That's all for now, thanks for watching.



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  • 3 weeks later...

Quick update; except for the control surfaces, all the HGW stencils are done; I've to correct my previous statement; the lettering on them is sharp and legible, and the only drawback is that the colors are off-register.


Since the model is nearing the final steps, I'm testing alternatives to make the weathering. The plan is to replicate worn and faded paint as a base and then emulate the dirt and dust on top of it.


I planned to post-shade the model using the salt method to replicate the worn paint as  I did with the propeller and the walkways. Still, it seems impractical for the whole model, and I neither have those photoetched stencils, so  I got the idea of using discarded softener sheets (the ones used in the tumbler driers in the laundry) as a mask instead.




Here are the results using different colors; I can vary the density and pattern by airbrushing through two or more layers of the sheets and building up the opacity with more pases.




Another test was the feasibility of doing enamel and oil wash directly over the paint since it is acrylic and satin; the enamel wash is too hot, and the oil ones are difficult to clean without damaging the paint. So, after the post-shading, I'll have to apply a gloss coat before the wash.

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On 6/23/2022 at 8:08 AM, Mr.Happy said:





I really appreciate and like your airbrushing feathering on the cowling.


Take care and keep building,




On 6/23/2022 at 8:30 AM, Falcon50EX said:

I think the 1" wide walkway lines, the red fuel filler caps, and the numbers on the ammo boxes go a lot towards making those expanses of upper wing surfaces look more interesting.



Thank you guys


Moving forward with weathering, here is the model after applying post-shading through the laundry sheets. The effect was made in two steps, the first using Vallejo's USN Sea Blue and the next with Intermediate Blue; in both cases, a mix of Thinner and Thinner Medium was added to the paint for better control.






Before adding the second color, I tried applying the Montex's mask for the fuselage's fuel tank but realized it didn't fit as I wanted, so in a hurry, I made a mask using Tamiya tape, as you can see in the above pic.


Today I started removing the liquid masking I applied before, which should recreate the two-layer chipping over the high-traffic wing area; most of the masking was removed, but some spots are still left.




In these closeups, you can appreciate better the result; at first glance, they seem too exaggerated for my taste, but I always feel this way with the weathering, so I'll wait a couple of days before deciding if I need to tone it down a bit.






The goal of this step is to replicate the looks of a well-used and battered plane that has just been washed; because the next step is to add the dirt and grime proper of an operational one.


Thanks for watching, and I'll be glad to hear your opinions and advice on this matter.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hello gents


Just wanted to share the little progress so far.


I removed all the masking fluid to reveal the chipping; here's the result, not what I envisioned, so I went back to check my references and found it could be plausible, at least.





After much thinking, I found that what has been bugging me is the lack of scratches of a different size, so I added some more using a fine-tipped brush.


Starting with the right side, I got carried away and made an ugly pattern at the wing's root that I'll correct later.




On the left side, I got a more subtle effect this time.




You can also notice on both pics that I added more chipping to the edges of several panels and access doors; I went heavier on the ones for the guns and ammo.


That's all for now; thanks for watching, and I'll appreciate any advice or critiques.

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Quick update


I worked over the chipping to make it less prominent, airbrushed over some areas and with a fine brush on others.






I'll add some chipping on the underside, and after it is done, a clear coat in preparation for more weathering.


Thanks for watching.

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I almost forgot to put the mission markings before the clear coat, so yesterday, I applied the HGW ones; as with the previous, I used Mr. Mak Setter under the decal and left it overnight to dry.


Today in the morning, I removed the decal film, but parts of the paint peeled with it; I guess Mr. Setter has an adhesive that prevents the silvering on regular decals that causes the weak paint adheres to it.




By coincidence, today I received a set of kolinsky brushes (in name at least), which are the first fancy ones I ever have, so tonight I used them to retouch the damaged areas. Here is the result.




The brush may not be of the highest quality judging by its price, but for me is an improvement; the tip is super sharp and precise; also, the acrylic paint behaves better compared with my older synthetic brushes.


That's all for now, thanks for watching.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Starting the weathering


Before applying a clear coat, I tried to get rid of small bumps and lumps in the paint, but in doing so, I also damaged it, so I had to make more touchups with the corresponding delay.


I covered the model with a coat of Tamiya's X-22 diluted with its lacquer thinner in a 1:3 ratio; I let it cure for two days before starting the washes.


It was a good thing that the riveting work survived the paint stage; the washes revealed this fine detail, as you can see in this pic.




I started with the underside to try different colors for the wash to find the best for each corresponding on the camo. First, I used Tamiya's gray panel liner on the dark portion of the insignia.


I used AMMO's dark sea blue panel line wash for the intermediate blue and the white areas; the thicker panel lines, corresponding to access doors and such, were treated with black night wash, also from AMMO.


This color mixing was easier than I thought and will be helpful in future models when I tackle the SEA camo.


For the white of the underside, I'm trying dark sea blue on the right and medium grey on the left (both from AMMO).




Here is a pic of the cowling after the washes.




That's all for now; thanks for watching.

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I like what i am seeing.

On the subject of washes, i recently finished a Vickers VC10 in BOAC markings and during the course of the build, i experimented with panel line washes on white. It seems i had the best luck with using a very light gray and then progressively darkening it.

Black will NOT work.

Dark Gull Grey will NOT work.

Neutral Grey will NOT work.

The light compass ghost greys start to get into the ball park. The best description i saw of panel line treatments to me is what Roy Sutherland said: if done right, the panel lines should be *almost* invisible from 3 feet away.

Please forgive me, if i sound a little too dogmatic about this....






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