What's a good F-4C Phantom II in 1/72 scale?

[john53]

I am looking at resurrecting my project of modelling a

gray over white USAF  F-4C from Ubon in early 1966.

I need a decent F-4C Phantom II but who makes one? I

could surf the web for an old but still very good Monogram

kit, the only other I have seen is an Italeri 4 in 1 Vietnam aces

kit with F-4C/D and J markings. But how accurate is that kit,I

have read that it's OK but has only wheels for a J model. Any

help or information is most welcome.---John

[habu2]

Have you looked at the Hasegawa and Fujimi offerings?

 

https://www.scalemates.com/kits/121970-hasegawa-04104-f-4c-phantom-ii

 

https://www.scalemates.com/kits/965069-fujimi-35111-mcdonnell-douglas-f-4c-d-phantom-ii-wolf-pack

[john53]

Thanks, they seemed to all be sold out or out of stock. I

have one on a "wish list" at Plaza Japan.---John

 

[Rex]

John, that Italeri  4 in 1 kit is using the old Esci tooling, so you can just look for reviews of the Esci/ERTL/AMT/etc kits.

 

they were pretty good kits, just get some USAF wheels and tires from somenone's Hasegawa boxing, and swap on some innerwing pylons, the Esci's were too short top to bottom.

[john53]

Rex thanks. How's the Fujimi kit? I'm not worried about being

sparse in the cockpit, shape good and all? I've seen the Fujimi

kit on Evilbay a lot.---John

[Murph]

There's also the option of using the Academy F-4J kit with modifications.

 

Regards,

Murph

[john53]

Thanks, that's an idea. I guess I'd have to backdate the cockpit to

USAF C configuration, get rid of the catapault bridles, use shorter

burner cans. Anything else? Get rid of the bump on the wing for the

larger tires?---John

[Murph]

The F-4C had the "bump" over the wing due to the wider tires; that's why Monogram could use basically the same molding for the F-4C/D/J.  The most noticeable thing is that you would have to add the IR sensor; although, a very small number of F-4Cs and F-4Ds didn't have it fitted.  Also add a new nose gear door and possibly the Air Force style inboard pylons.  During the timeframe you're looking at the inboard pylons were probably still the Navy type though.  Also, fill in the panel lines for the IFR probe on the starboard fuselage and scribe a new one on the fuselage spine.  The Big advantage to using the Academy kit is it has intake trunking, plus the aux air intakes under the belly are molded in the open position.  I'm planning to do one of the Wolfpak Decals options for an F-4C MiG killer in the gull gray/white scheme, and I'll be using the Academy kit to do it.

 

Regards,

Murph

Edited May 29, 2018 by Murph

[john53]

Thanks Murph, I also remember 2 sets of stabs. One had a triangular support

plate and one didn't. Wasn't one slatted stabs? I seem to remember that. Also

I was looking at the Fujimi kit and one of their C models had slat tracks under

the leading edge? Could be wrong on that. Thanks---John

[Don]

The Italeri/ESCI F-4C/D/J kit is on Amazon right now for $24.09.

 

Good luck with the project!

Regards,

Don

[Murph]

Good point.  The F-4C did not have the slotted leading edge stabs.  The triangular reinforcement plate was not added till the early 70s timeframe,  but most kits have it molded on.  On a related note, check the RHAW antenna on the trailing edge of the vertical tail; there's a good chance it wasn't there for the timeframe you are looking at.  If you use the Academy kit you will have to rob others, but I have enough in the spares box that it's no big deal.  The big expense for me is adding a pair of resin exhausts; I could take those out of the spares box too, but I prefer the level of detail in the resin "cans".

 

Regards,

Murph 

[Murph]

Forgot to mention that the USAF AIM-9 pylons in that timeframe did not have the extenders on them, so they sat flush against the inboard pylon.  That's something you'll have to correct with just about every kit I know of.

 

Regards,

'Murph

[john53]

If you can't find resin good cans I have mine left over from an old Monogram

F-4C that I built as a J. They're not resin but still short C cans.---John

[john53]

This is the basic idea of what I'm building.---John

[Gene K]

39 minutes ago, john53 said:

This is the basic idea of what I'm building.

 

Then you'll also need the Hypersonic early McD wing tanks.

 

Gene K

 

 

[Rex]

or Revell tanks from the Blue Angels or Thunderbirds boxings.

 

For LGG over White F-4C, you need thick wings, no slats, solid stabs without triangles, F-4B/C burner cans, USN inner pylons (short Sidewinder rail spacers, long hadn't been invented yet), Plain vertical stab with no ECM, and the earliest shape of F-4B/C nose fairing, USAF Wheels and tires. Outer pylons were the ones that could take tanks or weapons adapters for MBRs. (MERs weren't rushed into production until Independence's Intruder unit had bomb strikes on the wings during their first war cruise)

 

As you said, remove cat bridle hooks if present, Main gear reinforcement covers if present on your kit, and any Naval ECM bumps under the wings if molded into your kit (hasegawa has them on there, for example)

[Rex]

Oh, and a tip for sorting photos out that you find online.

 

62-12199 was the first thick winged, actual F-4C, any number after that in a LGG over White scheme is an F-4C.

 

The USAF F-4Bs (that is how the stenciling under the canopy read) were all returned and scattered through-out Navair again before Vietnam started.

So, 37407 and up, and 40654 and up would be F-4C, except for 49405 and 49406 (these were F-4B 149405 and 149406, USAF numbered them on the tail by dropping the "1") Just watch for LGG over White F-4D while you are looking, 64-0928 was the last F-4C built.

[Gene K]

7 hours ago, Rex said:

For LGG over White F-4C, you need ... .

 

Nice summary (as usual), Rex!

 

John, here's yet another alternative - kitbash a Hasegawa and Monogram kit. The Mono kit is a wonderful source of spare parts, and the nose is a great fit to the Hasegawa kit (you'll only have to file down the D model bump on the fairing). Actually, the Mono is a fine kit in it's own right --  if raised panel lines don't bother you.

 

If you use the Hasegawa kit, XMM Intakes are worthwhile (but looks like they are presently on hiatus).

 

Gene K

 

[john53]

Thanks for the information Gene, Rex and Murph. Rex is the LGG you're calling out

light ghost gray 36375? Print Scale calls out 16473 on their decal sheet. Thanks---John

Edited May 29, 2018 by john53

[Rex]

by "LGG over White", I mean "NS Light Gull Gray over G White" scheme.

 

If you are looking for a G 16473 aircraft,,,,those didn't have White bottoms.

[john53]

OK, non specular light gray over gloss white.---John

[habu2]

19 hours ago, john53 said:

This is the basic idea of what I'm building.

 

That’s not an F-4C, that’s an F-110A...  

 

😎

 

#sarcasm

.

 

Edited May 29, 2018 by habu2

[Murph]

3 hours ago, john53 said:

OK, non specular light gray over gloss white.---John

 

Light Gull Gray FS #36440.

 

Regards,

Murph

[john53]

Thanks Murph, thought so.---John

[john53]

56 minutes ago, habu2 said:

 

That’s not an F-4C, that’s an F-110A...  

 

😎

 

#sarcasm

.

 

I thought it was 63-7416? The Bs borrowed from the Navy were 62s.---John