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Monogram 1/48 F-84F Thunderstreak


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I got a little frustrated with the seams on this one, so I set it aside for a few days and worked on other models. After sanding and filling, I applied some primer to see where I am

 

After a little more sanding I am pretty happy with most of the seams

 

However there is a problem ... I tried restoring this heavy line which crosses the seam and I got it lopsided near the windscreen

 

2v2JdS1MFx9awpY.jpg

 

I am going to think about how to fix it. 

 

This area needs a little more attention, but it is too shallow for putty to grab, so maybe CA

 

2v2JdSp25x9awpY.jpg

 

 

There is also this tiny booger near the wind screen

 

2v2JdSp3gx9awpY.jpg

 

It is small but I know it is there, so I will try to fix it. 

 

Till next time ...

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The tiny booger and all other not so nice areas you showed us can be fixed with CA easily. Do IT! Hard CA can be engraved just like plastic. That's why I like it to fill gaps etc.

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1 minute ago, tobiK said:

The tiny booger and all other not so nice areas you showed us can be fixed with CA easily. Do IT! Hard CA can be engraved just like plastic. That's why I like it to fill gaps etc.

 

I have fixed everything. I will update this thread this weekend, I plan to primer the model tonight.

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I had chores to do, but I finally got to the bench. I spent time cleaning up parts, masking, and mounting them for primer

 

2v2Jyi9phx9awpY.jpg

 

 

 

I primered the model with MR Surfacer 1500 Black.

 

2v2Jyi9ckx9awpY.jpg

 

2v2Jyi9wix9awpY.jpg

 

 

The primer went on very smooth. I had it thinned just right, and I used my Patriot 105 with the standard needle, I think it is a .7.  It was the first time with this needle setup, as The .7 needle bound in the needle bearing, but other sizes did not. I used the reamer from the badger needle bearing replacement kit to ream the bearing, and now the standard needle works perfectly.

 

While I was spraying I found a few areas which will need to be addressed.  The wing roots need some more work, and I saw a depression near the wind screen. It is hard to capture in a picture, but I will try  later

 

Here are the rest of the parts

 

2v2Jyi9fDx9awpY.jpg

 

 

 

I did not primer the bombs, they need more work. So, I will get on to that now.

 

 

 

 

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Thank you for the encouragement Don!

 

I have something of a "lost update" I forgot to upload pictures I took when I was trying to address the gap in the wing root.

 

The wing root on this model is hard for me to sand, and there is nice detail around the wing root, so I tried the wet removal method

 

Here is the gap. YUCK!

 

2v2JyVRzSx9awpY.jpg

 

 

so  here is the procedure I used on the top and bottom

 

first, the area around the gap is masked to limit the area in which the putty is applied, and the putty is applied

 

2v2JyVs3Cx9awpY.jpg

 

 

The tape is removed 

 

2v2JyVsvLx9awpY.jpg

 

Next, a mild lacquer thinner like Tamiya Lacquer thinner or MLT is used to remove the excess. I a soaked Q tip, but it got loaded up really quickly. I had the best results later with a soaked piece of t-shirt fabric to wipe the excess putty away

 

 

2v2JyVsumx9awpY.jpg

 

 

 

It works, but I still have not not perfected the technique. There is still a gap, which brings us to today:

 

2v2JyVsJTx9awpY.jpg

 

So, I used a similar procedure with Mr. Surfacer 500

 

2v2JyVsahx9awpY.jpg

 

(sorry ... I did not realize the picture was out of focus until now. ) 

 

Any way, I will let this dry and carry on tomorrow.

 

Edited by Kurt H.
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Hey Kurt, sorry to tell you that you use the wrong putty for that. For the "wipe-off" method I prefer a 2k putty (like Magic Sculp). It does not affect the plastic because no solvent in, does not shrink and you can smooth it with WATER! Also behaves real good when you need to do some rescribing across the 2K putty area.

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5 hours ago, tobiK said:

Hey Kurt, sorry to tell you that you use the wrong putty for that. For the "wipe-off" method I prefer a 2k putty (like Magic Sculp). It does not affect the plastic because no solvent in, does not shrink and you can smooth it with WATER! Also behaves real good when you need to do some rescribing across the 2K putty area.

 

That is probably true. Is this magic sculp a two-part putty?  I do have mill-put and after the third try with the Acryl Blue I realized milliput might have been a better choice.

 

I think I made some more progress with Mr. Disolved putty but I had to sand the wing root. I re-scribed one side but I had to do more sanding on the other and I hope I did not sand a valley into the wing. 

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I really want to solve this wing root issue

 

The "drivers side" wing looks ok

 

2v2J5aUEDx9awpY.jpg

 

The passenger side, looks like doo doo

 

2v2J5aUH4x9awpY.jpg

 

The gap is shallow enough I can not get anything to bite into the gap

 

After Tobi mentioned two part putty I rememebered I have milliput

 

I mixed up some milliput and I really tried to work it into the seam

 

2v2J5aUeTx9awpY.jpg

 

I could only get a small amount the get in the gap. I did not want to put an excess amount in the gap, since milliput dries very hard. But when I tried to wipe, it would take the milliput out of the gap.

 

I will primer it again tomorrow, but I have a feeling I will need to use CA

 

It is always something ....  😕

 

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Kurt H. ... Milliput doesn't dry all that hard, it's still just as easy to sand and file as styrene. 

 

But for such a small gap, can I suggest using styrene ... Evergreen has such a wide variety of Rod strip, and a variety of thicknesses, that it's so-o-o much easier to fill small gaps with styrene than go through all the frustration of trying to fill it with a lot of different material. Even try shaving off thin strips off the sprue ... and if there's still small gaps, regular Tamiya Putty will do just fine.

 

Do you have small files? The variety of shapes will fit nicely in the wing root ...

 

I'm getting the feeling that you're making this way-y-y too hard ... it's all part of the fun!

Pete

 

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5 hours ago, K2Pete said:

Kurt H. ... Milliput doesn't dry all that hard, it's still just as easy to sand and file as styrene. 

 

But for such a small gap, can I suggest using styrene ... Evergreen has such a wide variety of Rod strip, and a variety of thicknesses, that it's so-o-o much easier to fill small gaps with styrene than go through all the frustration of trying to fill it with a lot of different material. Even try shaving off thin strips off the sprue ... and if there's still small gaps, regular Tamiya Putty will do just fine.

 

Do you have small files? The variety of shapes will fit nicely in the wing root ...

 

I'm getting the feeling that you're making this way-y-y too hard ... it's all part of the fun!

Pete

 

 

 

I did not think of that.  I do have some very small evergreen rod that might have fit in the gap.  I do have files.

 

Any way since the gap has layers of different materials  already, I applied a bead of CA, then brushed accelerator over it, then sanded immediately.  It is hard to see, so I did not bother with a picture, but I can not feel a seam with my fingernail, so hopefully primer will reveal a smooth seam.  Tonight I will perform finish sanding, and then re-scribe lines.

 

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The wingroot seams are done. Finally.

 

I did 3 rounds of scribe, mess up, fill in with CA, Prime, repeat

 

As the judges might say on the show Ink Master ... Those lines are BEAT...  so I had to finally accept them as good enough and move on

 

2v2J5iKzNx9awpY.jpg

 

I will have a look at the model with fresh eyes in the morning and if I do not see anything else to fix, I  can finally start painting.

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So how was your morning? Ah, hehe, you might be still sleeping as it was my morning right now. OK, have a coffee (bio and fair trade!) and have a look. You will try black priming this time? I have never done it, unless for shiny alclad.

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9 hours ago, tobiK said:

So how was your morning? Ah, hehe, you might be still sleeping as it was my morning right now. OK, have a coffee (bio and fair trade!) and have a look. You will try black priming this time? I have never done it, unless for shiny alclad.

 

I stay up late so I am getting ready to retire for the evening, at 5:00 am. Most people are still sleeping or just getting up. I was pretty busy with this model in the wee small hours of the morning as you are about to see

 

I am using the black basing method with this model. This is a irregular marble coat followed by a thin top coat. I got the idea from Doog's Models youtube channel.

 

The marble coat works best with precise application, so that means I get a chance to use my SOTAR 20/20

 

2v2J5h5Qgx9awpY.jpg

 

 

And I spent quite a bit of time appling the marble coat. I think I I was painting for nearly an hour. My hand started to get tired. I had troubling dialing in the pressure, and at first the paint was a little thick so I had to add thinner, and the paint started to flow more consistently.

 

Here is the result:

 

2v2J5h51Tx9awpY.jpg

 

 

and the landing gear doors, tanks, and pylons

 

2v2J5h5pSx9awpY.jpg

 

I also painted the bombs olive drab, but I forgot to take a picture. 

 

Now I am tired and I work .today so .. See ya next time

 

 

 

Edited by Kurt H.
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I applied the top coat.  My airbrush just did not spray as expected. I was able to get it to spray reasonably well. Just as I was finishing I realized my airbrush was probably not clean, so I decided to take the airbrush apart for a good cleaning. My suspicion was correct, I found quite a bit of the olive drab I used on the bombs on the needle and in the needle bore. Oooops

 

Any way, I got the effect I was looking for. Here is a over all view

 

2v2JN3VjFx9awpY.jpg

 

and a closer view

 

2v2JN3V8dx9awpY.jpg

 

It looks a little different and more varied in real life than in this picture. I am satisfied with the result. I did goober some of the landing gear doors, and one of the tanks, so I will need to do some minor sanding and re-painting.

 

 

 

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I applied the tan marble coat. I still had trouble getting used to using the Sotar 20/20. I am using Mr Color lacquer, thinned with Mr Leveling thinner. I swear as I was painting, the paint thickened. It acted like it was clogging and started sputtering. I had to dump the paint, flush the airbrush, and add thinner to the paint. 

 

Any way, I got through it. 

 

here are some pictures

 

2v2JNb5Wqx9awpY.jpg

 

2v2JNb5nhx9awpY.jpg

 

 

 

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After the drama of a problem with my compressor, I got the parts I needed to airbrush again.   I applied the top coat to the Tan

 

2v2JNWzFHx9awpY.jpg

 

2v2JNWzyex9awpY.jpg

 

The effect was a bit over done after 1 coat, but I came back with a second pass, but the paint was a little thicker and covered a little more, so i got a little more coverage than I hoped.  There is stil tonal variation which is not apparent in these pictures.  I was thinking of applying the light green marble coat but I am pretty tired so I will continue this one later

 

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When I painted the bombs, I forgot about the stripe. The best way to do this with paint would be to paint the forward end of the bomb yellow, mask the band, and then paint it Olive Drab. So, I painted an area yellow over the Olive Drab

 

2v2JN5ho5x9awpY.jpg

 

Next, I masked the area I guess a yellow band would be with 1mm tape

 

then sprayed more Olive drab

 

2v2JN5h2Nx9awpY.jpg

 

Then a quick coat of olive drab

 

2v2JN5hU8x9awpY.jpg

 

It does not look perfect, but better than nothing. 

 

I also did the light green marble coat

 

2v2JN5hvjx9awpY.jpg2v2JN5h3rx9awpY.jpg

 

see ya all next time

 

This time I made it a little easier on my self by drawing the color demarcation line on the primer with a pencil. It was also a little easier to follow the line of the tan where the green meets the tan.  The Dark Green will be the easiest since the other two colors are already there, I will just need to fill in the black areas. 

 

 

 

 

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This marbling technique ... I'm not familiar with it ... seeing some Q-tips strewn around, can I assume it has to do with removing a coat of paint?

If yes, can you give me a little more info or a link to the technique?

 

I can't see any mottling in the 'final' coat of paint ... is there some variation in the paint?

 

Your build looks like it's coming along just fine ...   :thumbsup:

Thanx

Pete

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3 hours ago, K2Pete said:

This marbling technique ... I'm not familiar with it ... seeing some Q-tips strewn around, can I assume it has to do with removing a coat of paint?

If yes, can you give me a little more info or a link to the technique?

 

I can't see any mottling in the 'final' coat of paint ... is there some variation in the paint?

 

Your build looks like it's coming along just fine ...   :thumbsup:

Thanx

Pete

 

The video I mentioned describing this technique can be seen here  .

 

There is some variation in the tan, but not as much as I hoped, I applied a final blend coat that was a little too thick.

 

The Q-tips are from a previous airbrush cleaning session. I took a closer look at the spray booth pictures, and i did not realize how much trash is in the spray booth ... woops I should clean it up.

 

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Quick update. I applied the blend coat of light green. This was hard,  the paint was thinned 70% thinner, 30 % paint, and it was so thin I had turn the pressure really low, and it was tricky to pull the trigger back just enough to get smooth coverage, but pull the trigger back just a little more and it would flood the surface. I will need to keep working on the technique

 

2v2Jr218Mx9awpY.jpg

 

 

Next time ... dark green, fs34079

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And a great leap forward

 

I applied the dark green marble coat

 

2v2JrysMrx9awpY.jpg

 

 

After a nap, I applied the Green blend coat, then forgot to take a picture.

 

Then I loaded up four airbrushes to do  touch ups on every color. 4 airbrushes means I can touch-up the touch-up with out stopping and cleaning. That experience was immensely frustrating as I had problems with two of the airbrushes.

 

Any way, after cleaning and trouble shooting I solved the problem, but it was frustrating to have a tool let me down

 

Any way, here is the finished camo. Only thing left to do is to mask and paint the tip of the tail.

 

2v2JryP3zx9awpY.jpg

 

2v2JryPvox9awpY.jpg

 

 

The end is in sight!

 

 

 

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Nicely Done!

And thanx for putting it on a white background ... it makes it a lot easier to see.

 

I took a look at the video of this technique ( thanx for the link! ... ) and it looks pretty labour intensive ... good on ya for giving it a go!

But, does it show through the top coat? Can you show us a nice close-up of the underlying subtle texture? 

 

Pete

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