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chuck540z3

1/32 Tamiya Spitfire Mk IXc, "Kicked Up A Notch" Nov 15/18

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The painted markings look great 👍  Interesting that you can get masks to do this, I had no idea.  I should paint the main markings more often because I seem to have lost my mojo with getting decals to have that 'painted on look'.

 

When I did my 1/48 Malta spit, I cut masks myself for the roundels and fuselage letters which was a bit of a trial, but it came out OK in the end & as you say, weathering helps hide glitches & I weathered the crap out of mine.

 

Re Tamyia lacquer thinner with their acrylics - YES!  I use it too, and it gives a better result than their acrylic thinner.  Strangely however, I've found a few Tamiya acrylic colours (e.g. JN Green) which don't seem to mix well with their lacquer thinner & I have to use their acrylic thinner.

 

vQ5w32Q.jpg

Edited by Thommo

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Thank you everyone and cool Spit there Thommo.  My Spit will be dirty too, but not quite as weathered as yours!

 

I thought I should mention a few things about the Maketar Paint Masks, that I just learned myself.  As mentioned, I was very impressed with the quality of the masking material and the precision that it was cut.  The masking is thinner (at 0.06mm) than Tamiya tape and stronger, so it's definitely different.  Checking out their website (which is hard to find below), they are using a material called "Kabuki", which is made in Japan.  One thing that I was really impressed with was how perfect the roundels were cut, so that I could rotate them without fear of them not fitting together any more due to imperfections in circumference.

 

The other thing I learned if you check out the website, is that vinyl masks always shrink, so you need to use them right away if you want the exact original size.  This is why my HGW vinyl masks for the windscreen and canopy did not fit any more.  I had to use the outside masks for the inside due to this shrinkage and wound up using Eduard tape masks, which are no doubt made of Kabuki as well, for the outside.  I ordered a custom set of Maketar masks for the fine lettering of the serial "MJ 199" in vinyl, because I'll be using it right away and I think vinyl might have a slighter sharper edge to it because it's so small in height, which is 5 mm.  Time will tell and if they shrink to 4.5 mm, nobody will notice!

 

Maketar Paint Masks

 

Cheers,

Chuck

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56 minutes ago, chuck540z3 said:

 

 

The other thing I learned if you check out the website, is that vinyl masks always shrink, so you need to use them right away if you want the exact original size.  This is why my HGW vinyl masks for the windscreen and canopy did not fit any more.  I had to use the outside masks for the inside due to this shrinkage and wound up using Eduard tape masks, which are no doubt made of Kabuki as well, for the outside.  I ordered a custom set of Maketar masks for the fine lettering of the serial "MJ 199" in vinyl, because I'll be using it right away and I think vinyl might have a slighter sharper edge to it because it's so small in height, which is 5 mm.  Time will tell and if they shrink to 4.5 mm, nobody will notice!

 

Maketar Paint Masks

 

Cheers,

Chuck

 

Thanks for the heads up. I have several vinyl masks in the stash, I'll need to check them out closely during application.

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Thanks for the great tutorial and tips. Your spit is looking incredible, excellent work as usual from you. 

 

:)

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Thanks again Gents! 

 

A quick update with Tamiya X-22 Acrylic Clear Gloss.  After a few more touch-ups, I sprayed the entire model with X-22 to:

 

1)  Prepare the surface for stencils and some small decals.

2)  Seal the paint, especially any rough edges, like along the edges of the painted roundels and lettering.

3)  Expose more flaws to be repaired.  Again, a shiny surface reveals more flaws that a rough finish.

4)  Seal tiny rivet detail, so that subsequent paint won't fill it if removed.

5)  Create a "do-over" surface, so that as I add weathering washes and thinned paint, I can remove it if I don't like it with solvent, without worrying about removing the base colors.

 

Again, the X-22 was thinned with 40% Tamiya lacquer thinner.  I used to use Pledge/Future all the time- heck, I even have a tutorial in the Tools and Tips forum on using it, but once I discovered X-22, I hardly ever use the stuff any more and never for a gloss coat.  X-22 lays down perfectly flat (with thinner), dries in no time and most importantly, it dries much harder than Future so that it can be sanded easily.  I've tried every clear coat imaginable (examples below, with Future in jar) and I've found that X-22 is the best overall and Alclad Aqua Gloss the worst.   If you're still using Future, give it a try.

 

fOSzj1.jpg


Now a bunch of pics that are self-explanatory.  Keep in mind that a gloss surface changes colors and makes them more intense, like the worn and chipped paint.  This is really true of areas on the fuselage where I have sanded down the paint to reveal the aluminum underneath.  The intensity will all be dialed back with thinned flat paint and a dull coat upon completion. 

WwRIZO.jpg


9YVF2B.jpg


NrwJco.jpg

 

wOUoA6.jpg

 

EmQKNR.jpg

 

qcaMcq.jpg

 

QKUG4n.jpg

 

mV96sD.jpg

 

 

Cheers,

Chuck

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by chuck540z3

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On 11/13/2018 at 11:35 AM, chuck540z3 said:

 

 

Carmen,

 

The first volume is ISBN-10: 1550461486, while the second is ISBN-10: 1550462679.  The first volume is extremely hard to find and therefore expensive, even used.  It was over $300 a few months ago but I managed to buy one recently for about $70 Cdn.  The second one is more readily available and you should be able to pick one up used for $20-$30 Cdn.  If you can only buy one, the second one is still terrific and a source of many pics of Spitfires taken during the war, including 401 Squadron, the focus of this build.

 

Spitfire, The Canadians Volume I and II

 

Cheers,

Chuck

Chuck,

Just bought the book Vol II for a $3.78 USd with free shipping.

Found on the same website for Vol 1 for $20.00 USD and $7.50 USD Shipping. I'll oder that down the road.

abebooks.com

 

BTW your kits are incredible. Well done sir.


Cheers

Edited by AlienFrogModeller

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I started using your method when you did your F-15C. It works very well. I have just started experimenting with Mr. Color GX100 Super Clear which needs more thinning, but the results have been great so far.

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The Spit looks really good so far Chuck. Those masks were a lot of work but, so worth it, nothing like painted on markings. As always, looking forward to your next update.

 

Steve

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