Jump to content
ARC Discussion Forums
foxmulder_ms

710 Blue "older" Su-35

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hi people,

 

I want to model the below plane in 1/48 what do you guys think the best starting point will be? 

 

I was thinking to get a Kinetic Su-33, sand off the wing folding mechanism, attach regular flaps a tail from academy Su-27 and use wolfpack Su-30 vertical tails. However then it occurred to me this was a Su-27 upgrade so the wings are probably narrower than Su-33. Is this correct? how would you guys approach to this project?

 

Thanks!!

 

su-35-serial-710-601.jpg

 

Edited by foxmulder_ms

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Su-33 has triple-slotted flaps with a different angle to the trailing edge - which results in more wing area.

 

It also has a shorter, flat-bottomed tailboom and slightly shorter fins (to fit the hangar deck).

 

Not proved conclusively, the Su-35 (T10M) supposedly has a bigger radome - with different curvature - and as well as the taller fins from a Su-30, you also need the nosegear (the Su-33 noseleg is different).

 

The Su-35 also has a cylindrical tailboom - with a conical tip containing rear-facing radar, non-folding tailplanes and a different cockpit layout.

 

It's do-able, but would need a lot of work.

 

Ken

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Start from a plain Su-27, add the LERX from the cheapest conversion kit you can find (there are a few from SOL and WolfpackD on eBay, beware they are all for the Academy kit...), if you got the right conversion you have also the offset IRST (or you could look for a upper Kinetic Su-33 fuselage, an early batch had an injection issue and Kinetic offered a replacement so maybe you can find one), find a twin wheeled nose landing gear, sand the nose to the correct shape and ignore the different diameter, rescribe here and there and you should have done it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It isn't just the nose that is larger in cross section - it is the whole middle of the fuselage basically. There is no real good starting point for Su-35 (T-10M) because of the unique fuselage. If you ignore that i guess Su-35S would be as good starting point as any.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This may help. Designed for the HB Su-30 but could be adapted for a single seater. 

 

Mark

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, Flankerman said:

The Su-33 has triple-slotted flaps with a different angle to the trailing edge - which results in more wing area.

 

It also has a shorter, flat-bottomed tailboom and slightly shorter fins (to fit the hangar deck).

 

Not proved conclusively, the Su-35 (T10M) supposedly has a bigger radome - with different curvature - and as well as the taller fins from a Su-30, you also need the nosegear (the Su-33 noseleg is different).

 

The Su-35 also has a cylindrical tailboom - with a conical tip containing rear-facing radar, non-folding tailplanes and a different cockpit layout.

 

It's do-able, but would need a lot of work.

 

Ken

 

 

That is the key info! I always thought Su-33 main wing structure itself was larger. But now I compared my models it is indeed only flaps that are increasing the area. Thanks Ken.

 

 

I have a Su-33 which I will try to turn into Su-35. 

 

I will omit some other stuff which are beyond my skills, like the different front fuselage. I just want to use master model Su-15 pitot tube on a Su-33 I guess :D

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, gb_madcat_sl said:

This may help. Designed for the HB Su-30 but could be adapted for a single seater. 

 

Mark

 

 

This is an interesting option but my google skillz failed me, couldn't find anywhere selling it... :|

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

51 minutes ago, foxmulder_ms said:

 

This is an interesting option but my google skillz failed me, couldn't find anywhere selling it... 😐

 

Youll probably need to contact Naza directly on Facebook to order. Don’t think he’s on the forums. 

 

Mark

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Facebook looks to be the only way. He does PayPal and I just requested shipping info to the USA. He charges around $20 to ship to Europe.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Matt Foley, Would having him send 2 sets help with shipping costs? I'm in WI too, and would be happy to split the shipping w you. (And pay to get mine from you to me)

 

Thoughts?

Matthew

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, Mr Matt Foley said:

Facebook looks to be the only way. He does PayPal and I just requested shipping info to the USA. He charges around $20 to ship to Europe.

 

14 hours ago, Matt Walker said:

Matt Foley, Would having him send 2 sets help with shipping costs? I'm in WI too, and would be happy to split the shipping w you. (And pay to get mine from you to me)

 

Thoughts?

Matthew

 

Mr Matt Foley, you mind if an non-WI (Ohio) guy gets in on this?  I really would like to get one of these sets too.  If you don't feel comfortable doing that perhaps I can buy the sets and ship them out to you guys...  

 

I guess it depends on how much his shipping is for one set to the US and how much it would be to send three...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry Guys, I have too much in the stash and no plans to do a conversion. I was merely inquiring about US shipping as a comparison.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I made 710 Blue years ago with the SOL Su-35/37 conversion set.  After lining up the canard parts from another SOL/Wolfpack conversion on the Hobbyboss kits I'm not unconvinced it couldn't be used.

 

I'm wishing I had used the HB Su-27UB on my Su-30MKI conversion to get that extra bit of length.

aOOXqWF.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To capture this extremely weathered look, I plan to do the following:

 

1) Paint the plane with aluminium color

2) Paint over it with the zinc chromate yellow

3) Go with lighter camouflage colors.

4) some highlight with more vivid/fresh camouflage colors.

5) Sand it down to taste to bring out the lower layers for weathered look. 

 

Has anyone tried smt like this? Do you guys think it can work? What can be the best aluminum paint with the most bite into plastic so it wont be too sensitive to light sanding. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The yellow parts are parts that were modified. They are not worn out sections. It would make far more sense to just paint normally without fancy sanding, paint the yellow sections and then do standard weathering. There isn't really any bare metal sections either beyond engine gondolas.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Thanks Berkut. I am aware of some "patched" sections. More of an artistic license what I am planning to do. Some Flankers go crazy with weathering and this one, 710, is almost there. I bet it looked something like below after couple more months of flying :)

 

 

Sukhoi_Su-27_Russia_-_Air_Force_AN209873


-27-30-32-34-35-37_-_RP100044.jpg


-27-30-32-34-35-37_-_RP102622.jpg


 

Edited by foxmulder_ms

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm also wanting to build a "super flanker" and am wondering the best way to go about it?

 

I remember seeing them as a child in Farnborough and would love to build one for nostalgia sake 😅

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×