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Ben Brown

AMT 1/25 Lola T8800 Done!

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Since Joel mentioned the Newman Haas Lola T8800 kit in another thread, I thought I'd post my progress on mine. This is the third car I've built in almost 50 years of modeling. The other two were a couple of Revell Reynards I built about 10 years ago (LINK). Fit was about what one would expect from a 1980s AMT kit. I cut the upper suspension arms off, so I could clean up the seam along the nose. I built it as a curbside model, so I could get the ill-fitting engine cover to stay put.  Plus, I didn't want to buy and detail a 3-D-printed Buick V-6, since  this was supposed to be a fun, inexpensive, learning experience. I'm using Indycals decals to build John Andretti's Buick-powered Granatelli car. I had bought the sheet about the same time I built the Reynards, and I didn't realize that it didn't include all of the necessary markings. I'm now waiting for a copy of Michael's updated sheet so I can finish the model. I had originally painted the model with Tamiya rattle can Fluorescent Red, but it was a semi-clear paint, so it didn't cover well. My inexperience with rattle cans caused lots of runs, so I sanded them down and repainted the model with Model Master Fluorescent Red, which covered a lot better. I'll post more pics when I make more progress. 

PTCradt.jpg

 

Cheers!

 

Ben

Edited by Ben Brown

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Ben,

  Don't know how I missed your build. I'm mighty impressed how you cut off the front suspension and pinned it after the painting process, which BTW, looks great.  Love the decals. Indy Cals are the best. Are those the Alps decals or his newer ones like I used?

  

 Looking forward to your next update.

 

Joel

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Thanks! It isn't too hard to remove and pin the upper suspension arms. About as much work as cutting and pinning the stabilators on a Monogram F-100D. 😄  

 

These are the ALPS decals I bought about 10 years ago. The new sheet has everything needed, but it's missing the black shading for the Granatelli logos on the engine cover. Not a problem on mine, since the old version has the correct logos, but I'll let Michael know so he can fix it for the next person. I may try to double up some of the decals, because the red shows through the white in some spots. I used his new decals on the tires and seat belts, and they performed beautifully. I'd like to know what printing system he uses. He can print white, but the decals seem to lay down better and conform to compound curves and panel lines better than the "Digital Silk" process Draw Decal uses for their airliner decals.

 

More pics coming soon!

 

Ben

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Great start.  As an aside, y'all know they liked to use high-mileage engines out of school buses?  The long, hard used destressed the block iron crystal structures and made the blocks very tough to better withstand the boost.

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Ben,

  I just send a email to Michael about any opacity issues with the yellow stripe decals with his new process over BRG. Hopefully there isn't any, but I'm not betting on it.

Joel

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Interesting about the engines!

 

On ALPS artwork, you can have the printer lay down a second base layer of white to provide opacity. I wonder if his new process can handle that kind of thing? One of these days, I'm going to see if he can print some aircraft decals for me. I just have to get off my backside and finish drawing them. 

 

Got the replacement tire decals on and added the ones that were missing from the 10-year-old version of the sheet. I'll seal them tomorrow and then I'll just have to glue the last parts on. 

oERhZdB.jpg

 

These cars are a fun break from detailing 1/48 cockpits!

 

Ben

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Ben,

  Those Goodyear Eagles really look good. I used Indy Cal decals for the Firestone markings on the 917K. The only time I still use Pledge is for hand brushing on a heavy coat on the rubberized tire surface, when dry a quick lite sanding with  1,000 or 1,200, then the decals using the Micro system plus Solvaset. Once dry another heavy coat of Pledge as it does indeed self level. Once dry 1,200 & finally 3,000. This way I never had to re-scuff the tire surface.

  

 the Front suspension looks great once  pinned back into place. 

 

Joel

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Hi Joel,

 

Thanks! I used Pledge/Future on my tires, too. I just hit them with a coat of Microscale clear flat this morning, and once that's dry, I'll dust the logos with little dark gray pastel, to tone them down a little. I also used Future for my clear coat on the car, because I'm not too comfortable with lacquer-based clear coats. I've always had good luck using Future on my airliners and I've finally learned not to experiment with new techniques on one's main project. I need to practice with lacquer-based clear coats for some street cars I want to build.

 

I'll post more pics after final assembly.

 

Cheers!

 

Ben

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2 hours ago, Ben Brown said:

Hi Joel,

 

Thanks! I used Pledge/Future on my tires, too. I just hit them with a coat of Microscale clear flat this morning, and once that's dry, I'll dust the logos with little dark gray pastel, to tone them down a little. I also used Future for my clear coat on the car, because I'm not too comfortable with lacquer-based clear coats. I've always had good luck using Future on my airliners and I've finally learned not to experiment with new techniques on one's main project. I need to practice with lacquer-based clear coats for some street cars I want to build.

 

I'll post more pics after final assembly.

 

Cheers!

 

Ben

Ben,

  All the so called lacquer based paints are technically Acrylic Lacquers. the key is a good primer coat. The Porsche is 100% acrylic lacquers without any issues including two different manufactures clears. 

Joel

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Done! This was more of a learning project than anything. These AMT kits are great! They don't have a lot of parts, and they fit reasonably well, so they're not too difficult to build. 

I'll post better pics when I have time to break out my camera. These are just cell phone pics.

3fa3lve.jpg

 

I'm going to play with some acrylic lacquers on a paint target before I start my next project. I used Mr Base White as a primer on this model. It's basically the same as Tamiya's rattle can white primer, but it comes in a jar. It sprays beautifully when thinned with Mr Leveling Thinner and covers well. I've been using it for several years on my airliners.


 

Ben

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Ben,

  She looks great crossing the finish line.  All my primers are some shade of Gray.  I prefer not to have to decant the Tamiya white primer, so your Mr. Base White  is of interest to me. Is it paint or primer, and where can I buy it?  

Joel

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Hi Joel,

 

Thanks!

 

Mr Base White is a primer. It isn't quite as thick as Mr Surfacer, but you can thin it with Mr Leveling Thinner and it sprays beautifully. 

 

Sprue Bros. carries it, but he's out of it, right now: LINK   I've bought it through Amazon, too. LINK   There are probably other shops who also carry it.

 

Ben

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Ben,

  Thanks for the info. I did find it on the SB site, and of course if I wanted it, it's almost always out of stock. To my surprise they still carry Tamiya White Primer, so I bought two bottles.

Joel

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Thanks! It was a learning experience. I learned enough by working on it and by reading Joel's posts that I feel more comfortable tackling that Fujimi 917, next. 

 

Ben

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Ben..

 

Outstanding work.. She looks STUNNING..

 

Good job.

 

:clap2:

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On 1/26/2019 at 6:30 PM, HOLMES said:

Ben..

 

Outstanding work.. She looks STUNNING..

 

Good job.

 

:clap2:

Thank you!!

 

Edit: In case anyone was still curious about using Mr Base White as a primer, I’ve since learned that it doesn’t adhere as well as Tamiya primer. It’s okay to use as a flat white, but use Tamiya if you need a real primer.

 

Ben

Edited by Ben Brown

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