strikeeagle801 Posted August 7, 2018 Share Posted August 7, 2018 Hello all It's been a LONG time since I've actually finished a model, and I've got a question here. I've working on getting my decals on my bombs and missiles, and am looking towards attaching them onto the finished model when I get there. The thing is, I can't remember what I've done in the past to attach them onto the rails and racks. I know I don't want to use regular model glue, as it won't stick to the paint (or if it will, it'll mar it) so, what else can I use? Super glue? I'll take any suggestions I can get. Thank's Aaron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted August 7, 2018 Share Posted August 7, 2018 It depends on the missile but when possible i try to use a single drop of CA that is ideally hidden on the body of the missile between the canards. Since CA is very strong, it usually doesn’t matter if it is way in the front or back. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geoff M Posted August 8, 2018 Share Posted August 8, 2018 I usually drill a couple small holes in whatever the bomb or missile will be mounted to (rack or rail) and insert a piece of wire and a corresponding hole in the bomb. When it is time to load the bombs I put a drop of super glue on the wires and slide the bomb onto the wire. This also helps with alignment. hth Geoff M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted August 8, 2018 Share Posted August 8, 2018 6 minutes ago, Geoff M said: I usually drill a couple small holes in whatever the bomb or missile will be mounted to (rack or rail) and insert a piece of wire and a corresponding hole in the bomb. When it is time to load the bombs I put a drop of super glue on the wires and slide the bomb onto the wire. This also helps with alignment. hth I do the same thing. Also works for LG doors, floats, struts, &etc. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Beary Posted August 8, 2018 Share Posted August 8, 2018 (edited) I do essentially the same with the pins, but I put the drop of CA in the hole and slide the pin into that. This will push any excess CA down inside the hole and makes for a very clean join of the bomb/missile /pylon . Bob Edited August 8, 2018 by Bob Beary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
strikeeagle801 Posted August 8, 2018 Author Share Posted August 8, 2018 Cool. Thank's guys. I appreciate it. Aaron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sierrascale Posted August 8, 2018 Share Posted August 8, 2018 12 hours ago, dnl42 said: I do the same thing. Also works for LG doors, floats, struts, &etc. Same here, but I try to make it a push-fit, so no glue is needed. Either wire or Evergreen plastic rod, .010 or .015. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HCS-5 AO1 Posted August 8, 2018 Share Posted August 8, 2018 I sometimes use this since it's sticky but doesn't have a death grip the part can be removed and repositioned if you mess up the alignment. It's called Scenic Accents glue by Woodland Scenics, as I said, it's very sticky but is workable. I've used it to fix not only weapons on my finished models but attaching figures and GSE to the display base. I never came across any discoloration or staining or my model's paint or the surface of my bases. The reason I started using this is because I've got two small grandsons living with me as well as five cats. I'd rather something come off without resistance that finding a broken TER, MER or pylon or just a pair of feet and some wheels where my crew and starter unit were. Trust me, I came home one day to find just that. Here's the link for it on the Woodland Scenics website.... https://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/Item/A198/page/1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tgoetz Posted August 9, 2018 Share Posted August 9, 2018 Has anybody tried magnets for this? I've been wondering how well it would work and if there are any pitfalls. This would give you the ability to change the loadout, easier to transport to shows and prevent breakage. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HCS-5 AO1 Posted August 9, 2018 Share Posted August 9, 2018 17 minutes ago, Tgoetz said: Has anybody tried magnets for this? I've been wondering how well it would work and if there are any pitfalls. This would give you the ability to change the loadout, easier to transport to shows and prevent breakage. Personally no but I have gamer friends that have and they look good depending on how well hidden they are. Since they're used a lot in the 28mm scale, Warhammer and the like they are small. The ones my friends use are mounted either in the hands or weapons for the most part to aid in swapping out say a grenade launcher or one plasma gun [ these are sci fi for the most part ] on the primary weapon with a different one or none altogether. Even though they're small, based on what I've seen magnets like these are limited by imagination but for the most part something like these magnets should work. I'm pretty sure you can find them in hobby shops that carries table top games and metal figures. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peterpools Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 (edited) Tamiya Extra Thin will eat through acrylic paint and works quite nicely. CCA will work but care is needed MIcro Kristal Klear .. works like a charm and is now my weapon of choice. Peter Edited August 11, 2018 by Peterpools Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bashace Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 Toothpick drops of Zap Formula 560, doesn't dry brittle which makes weapons prone to breaking off if jarred, used to glue canopies on Radio Controlled airplanes, dries very clear. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peterpools Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 Is ZAP Formula 560 a PVA based glue? Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bashace Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 17 minutes ago, Peterpools said: Is ZAP Formula 560 a PVA based glue? Peter It's non-toxic water based. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peterpools Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 Sounds very similar to Micro Kristal Klear but I'm always looking for new glues and will give it a shot Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Whiskey Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 I swear I’m just going to start putting labels on all the glues I have that say what they are for. This gets so confusing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CANicoll Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 On 8/11/2018 at 7:51 AM, Peterpools said: Tamiya Extra Thin will eat through acrylic paint and works quite nicely. CCA will work but care is needed MIcro Kristal Klear .. works like a charm and is now my weapon of choice. Peter 11 hours ago, bashace said: Toothpick drops of Zap Formula 560, doesn't dry brittle which makes weapons prone to breaking off if jarred, used to glue canopies on Radio Controlled airplanes, dries very clear. The Tamiya Extra Thin will clear out any acrylic paint pretty quickly but had not tried MKK. Mmmmm Have used F560 esp on canopies and such but nice to know it works on other things as well (such as radar antennas, etc). Keep the tips coming! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
A-10 LOADER Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 Try this, Dave's a good friend of mine and I do this as well. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjn5Iqzyu3cAhVGTt8KHaX7CxMQFjAAegQIABAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.clubhyper.com%2Freference%2Fattachingordnanceda_1.htm&usg=AOvVaw3vRC1MHQq7A6PWgBBoYKIn Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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