ross1562 Posted September 18, 2018 Share Posted September 18, 2018 (edited) Sorry, another newbie post that has probably been done to death. Im currently building my first model as an adult. I have painted it with enamel paints, gloss varnished it and applied decals. I then intend to gloss varnish it again with Enamel varnish before Humbrol Enamal weathering with their washes/powders etc.. Is this the correct way. Should I stick to enamel products throughout the process? Edited September 18, 2018 by ross1562 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
modelingbob Posted September 18, 2018 Share Posted September 18, 2018 I do not recommend using an enamel varnish with enamel weathering products. Since they both use a similar solvent they will react with each other (unfavorably!). Use a dis-similar varnish, from whatever you plan on doing your weathering with. For example, If I were using enamel weathering products I would use a lacquer or acrylic varnish (clear coat). If I were using an acrylic weathering product I would use a lacquer or enamel varnish (clear coat). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted September 18, 2018 Share Posted September 18, 2018 What he said! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ross1562 Posted September 18, 2018 Author Share Posted September 18, 2018 (edited) Brilliant, thank you. So: I’m using Enamel Paints and already have enamel weathering washes. Enamel Gloss Varnish. Decals. Acrylic Varnish. Weathering. Then what?? Or is weathering completely last? Edited September 18, 2018 by ross1562 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CANicoll Posted September 19, 2018 Share Posted September 19, 2018 After you are done with your weathering you can put a clear coat (flat, gloss, matte) over your final washes and such or just leave it (esp if it is not to be handled very much. But definitely use a different clear and weathering mediums. Enamel and acrylic alternated works best. Good luck! Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheRealMrEd Posted September 19, 2018 Share Posted September 19, 2018 I use MM and Colourcoats enamels, Alclad II for BMF. I also use the Alclad II clear topcoats, especially the Aqua Gloss, which is acrylic, when I seek a very shiny surface. Also, it does not "kill" the BMF Alclad II shine. One word of caution -- unless the formulas have magically changed over the past to years, NEVER use an enamel clear topcoat! EVERY one I have ever used for the past 40 years has eventually yellowed. Can't tell you how bad that makes a model with a lot of white on it look... Rebuttals welcome. Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ross1562 Posted September 20, 2018 Author Share Posted September 20, 2018 Can I just clarify something. When people refer to a clear coat, is that a specific product as such or is the Humbrol Acrylic Gloss Varnish spray I have count as a clear coat? Also, the model I’m building has meant I have some pre built parts that are painted and don’t have decals on, they are painted with enamel paints. Can I spray these pieces now with Acrylic Varnish on top of Enamel paints?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CANicoll Posted September 20, 2018 Share Posted September 20, 2018 So on top of the decals (after a day or two to let them completely dry) apply your next clear coat - meaning one of the clear products from your favorite paint manufacturer. There are usually clear gloss, clear flat and clear 'matte' or semi-gloss versions available. If you already have an enamel clear coat under the decals, I would do an enamel clear coat on top as well. Mostly what you are doing is sealing the decals (and blending in any remaining clear carrier film as well) and any weathering you have done (or prepping the surface for the weathering). I've done clear flat over a clear gloss I used as a base for the decals with good success. I tend to paint with acrylics, so usually use an acrylic clear as well. Then enamel or ink weathering. But I've used water-based washes as well to good effect (Flory for example). I would think that anything that was 'pre-painted' can also take the clear coat to help blend everything together. Yes, you can do an acrylic varnish/clear coat over the enamel paint. Do you need to apply decals to these pre-painted pieces? If the paint is smooth (relatively shiny) then you might not need a clear coat first. Good luck! Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ross1562 Posted September 20, 2018 Author Share Posted September 20, 2018 Now im completely confused but that may be due to what I’ve bought. Humbrol spray gloss/Matt varnish’s. So there are two scenarios: 1. I have painted some pieces in enamel paints and they do not need any decals applied but I want to weather them with the enamel weathering products I’ve bought. What coat do I use before and after weathering? 2. I have completed the main body of the model with enamel paints. I have coated it in enamel gloss varnish and applied decals. Now I want to seal decals but then apply weathering after. What’s the process? Sorry. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ross1562 Posted September 20, 2018 Author Share Posted September 20, 2018 Also, is a final coat of something absolutely necessary? For instance, the wheels have a nice Matt finish to the tyres after being painted alone, do I need to coat them in any final coat? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted September 20, 2018 Share Posted September 20, 2018 1. Not enamel clear coat 2. Enamel clear coat could be OK. I personally prefer lacquer or acrylic clear coats. A clear coat isn't strictly needed. And, as you suggest, there are some situations where a clear coat is a pain... As mentioned earlier, the issue with weathering and the clear coat is that weathering typically involves the use of the weathering media's solvent. By using a layer below--the clear coat--that's impervious to the weathering media's solvent, you avoid issues with the weathering process damaging the layers below, including paint and decals. I used to use Model Master clear lacquers--the bottle version of Testors GlossCoat and DullCoat--almost exclusively, regardless of underlying paint. Depending on my whim, I now use Mr Color or Tamiya if I want a gloss clearcoat; 'll usually use Microscale Industries Micro Flat for a matt clearcoat, but Mr Color and Tamiya are good choices there, too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CANicoll Posted September 20, 2018 Share Posted September 20, 2018 More specifically: 1. If you want to use enamel weathering products, then use an Acrylic clear coat. Model Master, Vallejo, Tamiya. Let it dry for at least 24-48 hours for best results. I use both Model Master and Vallejo (since Model Master is getting harder to find). 2. Agreed, either an enamel or acrylic clear coat to seal the decals. 3. No, you do not need to seal weathering if you don't want to. That is a preference based on your own needs: will the model be handled a lot? If yes and you are using pastel chalks for weathering or just want avoid fingerprints, then do a top coat. Having the top coat makes it easier to dust or clean in the future. Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
modelingbob Posted September 20, 2018 Share Posted September 20, 2018 2 hours ago, ross1562 said: Also, is a final coat of something absolutely necessary? For instance, the wheels have a nice Matt finish to the tyres after being painted alone, do I need to coat them in any final coat? Nope. No final clear coat needed if you're happy with the sheen/finish. The only thing I always seal with a clear coat is decals to help prevent them from lifting and to help hide the carrier film. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CANicoll Posted September 20, 2018 Share Posted September 20, 2018 Good point, I never clear coat my wheels/tires (or the canopies!!!!) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ross1562 Posted September 21, 2018 Author Share Posted September 21, 2018 Superb responses as always. Your help is very much appreciated. Totally understand now, thank you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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