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CD144016 - 1/144 KC-10 Extender


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3 hours ago, KursadA said:

Folks, are the Revell 1/144 DC-10 and KC-10 kits completely different tools? Whatever sprue photos I could find on the Web suggest that the fuselages are clearly different, but the other sprues seem similar. 

 

I already designed the main markings using a set of accurate 1/144 scale drawings that I prepared - but I need to check the fit of a few markings that need to conform to the structural details of the actual kit.

 

If I can not find a Revell KC-10, can I buy a Revell DC-10 and use it to design the windshield decals and check the fit/form of few kit-dependent markings (door outlines etc.) ? 

 

Well it never fails, I went looking for my Revell KC-10 and WTF, I cannot find it. In the back of my mind I think I traded it many years ago for something else. Darn, darn, darn it. Anyway, my friend here in town is a big big airliner modeller. So I gave him a call and yeahh he has a KC-10. It is missing the F-15 and the decals but no issue right? He also has 3 of the Revell DC-10 kits.

 

I asked him to compare the sprues and he said yes the kits are a little different. It seems Revell changed the DC-10 kit to make the KC-10. He said the only difference he can see is that the KC-10 has the flying boom housing moulded on the fuselage instead of an add on part. So Revell must have modified the moulds to do that? The rest of the kit looks the same.

 

Since I live in Canada I would think it would be a bit pricey to send to Texas. I am sure someone in the US can help you out, I hope. If not I can do it.

 

Hope that helps you out Kursad.

Edited by skyhawk174
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17 hours ago, KursadA said:

Folks, are the Revell 1/144 DC-10 and KC-10 kits completely different tools? Whatever sprue photos I could find on the Web suggest that the fuselages are clearly different, but the other sprues seem similar. 

 

I already designed the main markings using a set of accurate 1/144 scale drawings that I prepared - but I need to check the fit of a few markings that need to conform to the structural details of the actual kit.

 

If I can not find a Revell KC-10, can I buy a Revell DC-10 and use it to design the windshield decals and check the fit/form of few kit-dependent markings (door outlines etc.) ? 

Kursad,

 

I no longer have my Revell (USA) 1/144 KC-10A kit, having sold it years ago.  However, I do know that Revell molded their DC-10 kit from the early DC-10-10, with short wing-to-fuselage afterbody fairings.  Later DC-10-30/40s had much longer wing-to-fuselage afterbody fairings.  As the KC-10s, were some of the last ones built (FedEx actually got most of the later DC-10-30CFs), they all had the long wing-to-fuselage fairings.  This is very evident in Jonah's second photo of 87-0121. 

 

Revell Germany KC-10 kit .

 

So after searching a little bit, i found a photo of the Revell KC-10 kit parts trees.  As you can see, Revell added the longer fairings when they re-tooled the kit into a KC-10.    

 

     

001.JPG

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Hey Dutch thanks for the info. So the fuselage is a little more different than just the refuelling mods. Good to know as I believe that the KC-10s are DC-10-30 airframes?

 

I have done the deal with my friend so I now have a KC-10 again and only awaiting Kursad's decals.

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Thanks a lot, Dutch - the photos of the Revell DC-10 sprue frames clearly show that the kits are related. The fairings are not really relevant to check the fit of the markings I need to verify. Looks like a couple of Revell DC-10 fuselage halves will do the trick. Jonah kindly offered to help, so I think I am good.

 

p7291727.jpg

002.JPG

 

 

p7291729.jpg

001.JPG

 

Edited by KursadA
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  • 4 weeks later...

Several folks have offered to help and I have a set of fuselage halves and windshields, which is all I needed. Thanks for the offer - the sheet is about to be finished and it should be available in February or so.

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  • 1 month later...

Almost done with the design; but I need your help in identifying a few unit badges. I know the units and the wings involved, but none of the badges that I could find seem to match.

 

1. I need to identify the badges on the starboard side of 1980's blue/white KC-10s from Barksdale and Travis:

Photo 1

Photo 2

Photo 3

Photo 4

 

2. I need to identify the badge right behind the cockpit windows on Seymour-Johnson based KC-10s.

Photo 5 

 

I would appreciate it if you could please help me out, so I can add these markings and finish the sheet ASAP. Thanks!

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452d Air Refueling Wing on the left, 22 ARW on the right according to a friend who is a USAF expert. 

 

I dont know what the emblem in #5 would be other than 4th Wing as pointed out above. 

 

Looking forward to the sheet!

 

Jonah

 

 

Edited by Gator52
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Photo #5 is post 1992 & pre-1995 (prior to KC-10 transfer out of SJAFB to AMC) with the ACC (not TAC) badge on the tail, with a stylized Wright Flyer for North Carolina base: Seymour-Johnson AFB, SJ tailcode and yes, a 4th TFW blazing diagonal arrow badge immediately behind the cockpit. See Wiki article

 

The first four photos feature both the Active Air Force unit to the right, and the associated AFRES unit to the left of the SAC sash. 

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That looks wonderful Kursad. So I better get started on my KC-10 kit so it will be ready when you release these decals. Really appreciate that you have done the windshield decal too as it saves me having to worry about the clear piece.

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  • 2 weeks later...
2 hours ago, Gator52 said:

Are there two hi-vis options; one Barksdale and one March?

 

Also, is the Shamu camo scheme for the SJ markings?

 

Thanks

Jonah

 

The hi-vis options are "Bayou Babe" and "City of Moreno Valley", two Desert Storm era examples with nose art.

The Shamu example is a plain vanilla one with no special markings, and the SJ example is just overall AMC Gray.  

 

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Proof sheet looks like this will be a winner, just a couple of suggestions:

 

First, I believe the stars in the "pre-war" insignia used on the tail of 22ARW birds should actually be a very light gray vs. white. It's a subtle but clear difference if you closely compare the star color to the rest of the vertical tail for the classic white/blue/gray delivery scheme.

 

Second, it's not clear how you've designed the "fillet" portion of the blue transition between the cheat line and cockpit area, but it's important to note there's a color transition from gloss to matte (same shade of blue) aligned with the top line of the cockpit windows as seen here: 

https://www.dstorm.eu/pictures/nose-arts/kc-10/79-1950_1.jpg

 

From what I can tell your decal is designed to wrap from cheatline to top centerline, which is fine, but would require masking over the decal to create the gloss/matte transition. Might be better, between the finish change and the compound curves above the cockpit, to stop the fillet at the window line and provide a separate "cap" for the matte roof, or leave this to be painted.

 

Speaking of which, my recollection is that the old Testors (square bottle) gloss blue is a good match for the cheat line color. Has your research confirmed any "off the shelf" match if needed for decal touch-up?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for your comments - I addressed the color issue for the 22ARW badge and a couple of other things.

 

Many thanks to Wayne F. for sending me the original McDD drawings & paint specifications for the blue/white scheme - this really helped verify some of my guesswork and make corrections when needed. 

 

There indeed is a gloss/semi gloss transition above the windshield area, clearly specified in the factory specs I mentioned. I do not have an easy solution for handling this without drastically changing the design, but I will provide some guidelines in the instruction. The painting specs unfortunately do not have any color information, but my best estimate for the color is FS15150 or something very close. And that is what I went with. 

 

Note that the sheet has separate door markings which should make it possible to mask and paint the blue section should you not be satisfied with my color choice. 

 

A Cartograf-printed, 13-color ($$) new decal sheet for an ancient, hard-to-get kit is not a risk that many others in this industry can take. I hope you will like the sheet and support such crazy initiatives so I can bring you more like it in the future.

Edited by KursadA
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