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janman

Your choice for a rattle can gloss coat?

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As some of you might know, I don't use or own airbrush. I do use rattle cans for car bodies and occasionally on aircraft kits. 

 

For top coats I've used solely Mr. Hobby Topcoat products for years. The problem is their "Gloss" topcoat. I've noticed it's very hard to get a smooth finish with it - no matter how I do it. Seems the coat needs to be quite wet. Or sometimes not. While the Tamiya spray cans give you a nice gloss finish it all gets almost ruined when I apply the final gloss coat - which is for protection of decals on a racing car.

 

Anyways, do you guys know a better alternative for Mr.Hobby topcoat gloss spray? I've noticed they now have a "Premium Topcoat" line as well. Any noticeable difference between these two (blue can versus new turquoise can)?

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Posted (edited)

If you're doing race cars and have a good ventilation/respirator setup, 2k clears are the most forgiving and best I've ever used.  They are near glass like when they dry, so they are great for things like F1 cars (what I've built when doing cars), but a bit much for things like a production car or CAG jet.

 

The 2k part means you have to mix two parts (an activator and the clear coat).  Most systems I've seen also have a third part thinner, but not always.  A single part clear that we are used to that dries in air without additives would be referred to as 1k. 

 

They are automative grade paints and many of the ones you find will be made commercially and sold in gallon sizes by companies like DuPont and 3M, but Gravity Colors and Zero paints to make sizes and varieties dedicated to scale models.

 

A few comments through:

1) I am only aware of one 2k clear that comes in a spray can and it is inefficient.  It's $30 something and only good for 48 hours once you pop the seal (releases the activator). 

 

2) They go on thick.  Great for a top coat, but can make fit less than ideal if used before major assembly is complete.

 

3) They are toxic.  They can be used perfectly safely with good ventilation and a respirator, but definitely not to be used in a closed basement. 

 

But if you're looking for the best clear available, this is it.  I just finished SF70H a few weeks ago and haven't taken the formal pictures yet, but this is an idea of what you can get...

IMG_0548.jpeg

Edited by ESzczesniak

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Yes, I've actually never tried Tamiya's. Maybe because I remember it being a bit "hot" on the decals. Am I correct?

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8 minutes ago, janman said:

Yes, I've actually never tried Tamiya's. Maybe because I remember it being a bit "hot" on the decals. Am I correct?

 

Yes, very! It even eats Tamiya’s own decals. 

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1 hour ago, ESzczesniak said:

 

Yes, very! It even eats Tamiya’s own decals. 

 

Yeah. That's what I've heard. Raises of course a question what's the purpose of such a gloss coat!?

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As others have said, Tamiya rattle can gloss is a pretty "hot" clearcoat and can damage decals and paint if applied too heavily. If you do use it, make sure you do several very light misting coats first and let them dry before blasting on a heavier coat. Don't ask me how I know this!!!! 

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23 hours ago, modelingbob said:

As others have said, Tamiya rattle can gloss is a pretty "hot" clearcoat and can damage decals and paint if applied too heavily. If you do use it, make sure you do several very light misting coats first and let them dry before blasting on a heavier coat. Don't ask me how I know this!!!! 

Exactly this. And when the final coat is dry, it takes very well to a polish if you want a higher gloss. 

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On 10/11/2018 at 11:17 AM, modelingbob said:

As others have said, Tamiya rattle can gloss is a pretty "hot" clearcoat and can damage decals and paint if applied too heavily. If you do use it, make sure you do several very light misting coats first and let them dry before blasting on a heavier coat. Don't ask me how I know this!!!! 

+2 What Bob said.

 

Don

 

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