janman Posted October 6, 2018 Share Posted October 6, 2018 As some of you might know, I don't use or own airbrush. I do use rattle cans for car bodies and occasionally on aircraft kits. For top coats I've used solely Mr. Hobby Topcoat products for years. The problem is their "Gloss" topcoat. I've noticed it's very hard to get a smooth finish with it - no matter how I do it. Seems the coat needs to be quite wet. Or sometimes not. While the Tamiya spray cans give you a nice gloss finish it all gets almost ruined when I apply the final gloss coat - which is for protection of decals on a racing car. Anyways, do you guys know a better alternative for Mr.Hobby topcoat gloss spray? I've noticed they now have a "Premium Topcoat" line as well. Any noticeable difference between these two (blue can versus new turquoise can)? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
goondman Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 Gunze Mr. Color. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ESzczesniak Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 (edited) If you're doing race cars and have a good ventilation/respirator setup, 2k clears are the most forgiving and best I've ever used. They are near glass like when they dry, so they are great for things like F1 cars (what I've built when doing cars), but a bit much for things like a production car or CAG jet. The 2k part means you have to mix two parts (an activator and the clear coat). Most systems I've seen also have a third part thinner, but not always. A single part clear that we are used to that dries in air without additives would be referred to as 1k. They are automative grade paints and many of the ones you find will be made commercially and sold in gallon sizes by companies like DuPont and 3M, but Gravity Colors and Zero paints to make sizes and varieties dedicated to scale models. A few comments through: 1) I am only aware of one 2k clear that comes in a spray can and it is inefficient. It's $30 something and only good for 48 hours once you pop the seal (releases the activator). 2) They go on thick. Great for a top coat, but can make fit less than ideal if used before major assembly is complete. 3) They are toxic. They can be used perfectly safely with good ventilation and a respirator, but definitely not to be used in a closed basement. But if you're looking for the best clear available, this is it. I just finished SF70H a few weeks ago and haven't taken the formal pictures yet, but this is an idea of what you can get... Edited October 9, 2018 by ESzczesniak Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gerhard Posted October 10, 2018 Share Posted October 10, 2018 Tamiya. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
janman Posted October 10, 2018 Author Share Posted October 10, 2018 Yes, I've actually never tried Tamiya's. Maybe because I remember it being a bit "hot" on the decals. Am I correct? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ESzczesniak Posted October 10, 2018 Share Posted October 10, 2018 8 minutes ago, janman said: Yes, I've actually never tried Tamiya's. Maybe because I remember it being a bit "hot" on the decals. Am I correct? Yes, very! It even eats Tamiya’s own decals. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
janman Posted October 10, 2018 Author Share Posted October 10, 2018 1 hour ago, ESzczesniak said: Yes, very! It even eats Tamiya’s own decals. Yeah. That's what I've heard. Raises of course a question what's the purpose of such a gloss coat!? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gerhard Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 I have never had issue with the Tamiya eating decals. The key is several light coats. Dont go in heavy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
modelingbob Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 As others have said, Tamiya rattle can gloss is a pretty "hot" clearcoat and can damage decals and paint if applied too heavily. If you do use it, make sure you do several very light misting coats first and let them dry before blasting on a heavier coat. Don't ask me how I know this!!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gerhard Posted October 12, 2018 Share Posted October 12, 2018 23 hours ago, modelingbob said: As others have said, Tamiya rattle can gloss is a pretty "hot" clearcoat and can damage decals and paint if applied too heavily. If you do use it, make sure you do several very light misting coats first and let them dry before blasting on a heavier coat. Don't ask me how I know this!!!! Exactly this. And when the final coat is dry, it takes very well to a polish if you want a higher gloss. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DONG Posted October 13, 2018 Share Posted October 13, 2018 On 10/11/2018 at 11:17 AM, modelingbob said: As others have said, Tamiya rattle can gloss is a pretty "hot" clearcoat and can damage decals and paint if applied too heavily. If you do use it, make sure you do several very light misting coats first and let them dry before blasting on a heavier coat. Don't ask me how I know this!!!! +2 What Bob said. Don Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nr1forme Posted May 3, 2020 Share Posted May 3, 2020 (edited) Seems like I’m a bit late to the party on this one. But as a long time Topcoat 501 user I tought I’d chip in. It really is an excellent product! The trick to getting nice gloss coats from the can with the TC is to really mist the stuff on at first. Repeated light passes over and over until the surface looks slightly wet and slightly pebbly. Now stop and do not panic at this stage, it’s all good. 😀 Let it sit in room temperature for 15-20 minutes. When you come back to it the clear will have levelled and a sheen is there. Then hit it again in the same manner. If using the TC as a base for decals 2-3 sessions doing the above will give you a nice, strong and smooth glossy base to work from. If you want a nice ”car-paint” gloss. Do the above and then lightly sand the surface back with some #2000 wetsanding paper. Then hit it again, this time more liberally. Take your time and with each pass of the can you will see the gloss coming. A word of caution here...be very careful not to apply too much, or it will run. The sanded clear provides less of a ”tooth” that will ”hold” the paint. Do a couple of wet coats. See what it looks like. More gloss? Sand and hit it again. If happy, wait for a couple of weeks for it to cure, then sand back and polish with compounds. 😎 Another tip is to heat the can quite alot before spraying. The TC likes higher temps. Fill the kitchen sink with very hot tap water and let the can sit for a couple of minutes. Give it a thorough shake before spraying. Also, spraying outdoors in the nordic winter is to be avoided. Fogging and wierd drying behaviour can occur. All the best! Emil Edited May 3, 2020 by nr1forme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
weirich1 Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 Testors Extreme 1834 Lacquer "Wet Look Clear". Used it on my Tamiya 1/32 Thunderbird #5: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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