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Monogram F-105F Wild Weasel M.O.H. flight

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Didn't think I'd be able to join in, but here I am after all. Just happens that I needed an early F-105F for my Wild Weasel collection, and since I was fortunate enough to find a sheet of 1/72 Wolfpak decals "Sambuster & Tyke", which has marking for Leo Thorsness Medal Of Honor mission of April 1967, here we go.


References for this build are the downloadable instructions  for the decal sheet, as well as the Scale Models issue from March of 1985, which describes the difference in sensors, etc. for the Vietnam F-105 Wild Weasel aircraft.


First a picture of the kit -- not to be confused with Monogram's earlier and very strange F-105 kit, which I seem to recall was an old box-scale kit. Forgive me if my memory is not accurate on this.




The first order of business is to remove the external wing reinforcement panels from the top and bottom sides of each wing. Since this kit is made of silver plastic, the original panel lines etc. still show up after being sanded off. While this is great if you choose to re-scribe all panel lines (I have done a few!), it is not good for recognizing when you have sanded the details away -- without sanding too far into the model. To help with this problem, I surround the area to be sanded with sticky masking tape (in this case 3M's safe release painter's tape), to within about 2mm of the detail I want to keep. Then, I scribe all the panel lines with a #11 X-acto blade, just to I can touch them up later.




As seen on the wing on the left, I have used a sanding stick (320 grit?) to sand down just until the tape starts to "feather edge", while trying to follow -- not flatten -- the contour of the wing. If you compare the sanded wing (A) to the untouched wing (B), you will see that the wing on the left seems to still have the reinforcement panel present. This is not so; it is an optical illusion, and the very reason I used the masking tape trick to keep from sanding too deep!


The top sides of the wings (below) show the results of this process after sanding and priming if needed, more sanding could be done, but in this case, the masking tape trick did it's job:




The arrow shows the wingtip antenna that needs to be removed, while (A) shows where the little "stalk" antenna has been removed. By the way, these two little spots were one of the only two places where any filler was needed on this kit, the other being on the nose, to fill the unwanted six exhaust ports on the right side of the nose:




The proper area on the nose was taped just like the wings, the 3M spot putty was used to fill the six unwanted holes. After drying, the filler was sanded down until the tape started to feather edge, and then I knew when to quit. The nose was then slightly re-scribed  and then primed.


Next the wing halves were glued together, then the appropriate areas of the main gear well (including the wing spar) were primed and the paint FS 34151 Interior Green. For this whole model, I will use Alclad II grey primer, and some Alclad II metallic colors, For all other colors except for the camo colors, I'll use Model Master enamels. For the camo colors, I'll use Colourcoats enamels:




Please forgive the poor picture, but I had guests for the Thanksgiving Day holiday, and couldn't set up proper lighting.


Next the needed air scoops were added to the fuselage sides (A) and the little exhaust scoop (B) where shown. Please note that the "B" scoop is for exhaust, hence the openings face rearward!




Now, I'm close to closing up the fuselage, except for painting, assembling and installing the cockpit:




(A) shows the unglued wing spar, and (C) is the added nose weight, glued in with canopy white glue. (B) shows the nose gear well, which I glued to one side with liquid glue. I then held the fuselage halves together, to align the gear well properly from side to side, before the glue sat up. Otherwise, it would have ended up off to one side, despite the depressed area of the kit that was supposed to help align itself!


Well, that's all for now -- off to paint the cockpit!











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Awesome work so far. 1/72 isn't my scale but I'm a huge Thud fan and know that infamous flight very well. Good luck!

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This is a test. Arc system has not let me upload and update for two days -- will be experimenting here!!!


Hi all,

Just a short update today.  Finished the cockpit painting -- used the standard kit items, cause only aftermarket for the two-seater is for the "G" model. Couldn't find a good photo of the rear IP, so just went with the kits' offering:




Sorry for the bad pic, but again, holiday visitors meant no proper light setup...

Next, cockpit has been installed nose and wings added. No filler was needed, except as described earlier.




Edited by TheRealMrEd
posting error in system -test

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By not having to re-scribe this kit, and not having to sand away the raised panel lines, the build itself  is rather easy -- but the work will be in the paint and details!

While this is drying, lots of small items to paint and make ready.






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Hello everyone!


Back for another small update. Hope this one posts with no problems!!!


First up, the AGM-45 missiles Hasegawa Weapons Set #4)  needed to to have new mounting holes drilled into their bodies to accommodate the kits outer  missile pylons. I just ignored the existing holes; they'll be under the pylon and out of sight:




Note that the missiles mount directly to the pylon itself. Ditto the CBU-30's below. Note that the explosives inside are called CBU-30's while the outer container, shown below, was called the SUU-30.  Some had a less pointy front end. The whole things was usually referred to by the name of the explosives WITHIN the SUU-30, ie. CBU-24, CBU30, CBU-52, etc.


The SUU-30's from Hasegawa Weapons Set #2 have the mounting lugs aligned with the top fin of the casing.To mount these on the inner F-105 pylons, I had to drill new holes on a new centerline between the fins:




Figure A shows the original mounting lugs, figure B shows the new holes, and the arrows point to the wires CA'd into the kit's pylons to hold the CBU  just proud of the pylon. Sadly, I didn't notice this fit problem until AFTER I had painted and decal-ed the CBU, so the data decal are 1/8 rotation too high,  rather than on the side.  Note that on the 105, the CBU's also mounted directly to the pylon, with no other launch rail type device used.


Since the kit's inner pylon's bomb shackles were too far apart, I added new ones, using spares from a Trumpeter F-100 kit. These are fiddly as heck, but I felt I had to do it...




Figure A shows the Trumpeter bomb shackles and the arrows point to the small grooves I filed into the pylons to accept them. The front was added to the same area as the kit pylon, and I ignored the rear kit shackle, as I could find no pictures indicating whether it was removed or left as is for this weapon mount. Any advice from those informed on the matter are welcome!


Anyway, here they are when done. I have painted the bomb shackles the same color as the weapon fuse on the CBU (60% silver and 40% gold).




That's about it for now. More next time.







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Another brief update.


The stock kit cockpit has been completed and painted:




Next,  the entire model has been sprayed with Alclad II grey primer, then the gun muzzle area and the sensors on the tail were painted Alclad II aluminum, and when dry were masked with Parafilm "M" then trimmed with a #11 X-Acto blade. Then,  the underside was painted FS# 36622 gray. All camo colors for this build will be Colourcoats Enamels, because they are thin and cover well:




When dry, the model gets turned over and the FS 30219 Tan is shot more or less everywhere it's supposed to end up. It covers so well, only a thin coat is needed, so this layer doesn't have to be masked to avoid later paint build-up:




At this point,  I decided to try something new. Having read about the Comp-O-Stik tape (sort of a poly tape used by hockey players?), I decided to make my paint masks by applying the tape to the model, drawing the desired pattern onto the tape, and then removing the tape and cutting out the mask. This also would provide BOTH sides of the mask, for later color change masking. Normally, the masks are cut from paper, and then I use a double-sided servo tape, cut into small pieces. These are then stuck to the UNDERSIDE of the masks. Then the other sticky side of the servo tape is stuck to the BACKSIDE of Tamiya tape or whatever you trust on your model. This give a strong grab on the paper, and a weaker grab on the painted surface. In this case, I just substituted the clear Comp-O-Stik tape.




It was right about here that I discover A GREAT BIG MISTAKE.!!!


I have been modeling for more than 65 years off and on. I have also built several other of these exact kits. However the difference was, all those other kits had the raised panel lines completely re-scribed, and this one didn't. The problem is, when re-scribing, there is a necessity to wash crud from the scribed lines, etc. over and over, which tends to remove all the oils used in the mold. Since I did not do that re-scribing process on this model, I NEVER WASHED OFF THE MOLD OIL  -- definitely a rookie mistake!!  What's that old saying about "getting too big for your britches...".


I decided not to strip the whole model and start over, but just to touch up areas with the airbrush after lifting the tape to remove the masks. Other than the extra work required for many touch-ups, it turned out okay. There was a lot more free-hand airbrushing than I wanted, but it turned out okay for me, but it has been a VERY long time since I have had a paint lift problem. Oh well.




Above,  all the painting has been completed, then the model was shot with a layer of Alclad II Aqua Gloss acrylic, and the the few decals or this aircraft were added.


Now more details and fiddlies to work on. More later.







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Thanks Cap'n,


Next, a little oil streaking on the bottom, very light:




Next the landing gear are added. Note where the link goes on the front gear -- the instructions are vague. Also, the tailpipe and  afterburner petals have been installed:




Next the gear doors:




Below, figure "A" shows where the afterburner petal mount fairings have been hand-painted to match the scheme, and white glue has been built up for the relocated wingtip lights, "B":





Next, weapons and fuel tank have been added, as well as two antennae (arrows):




Another  shot of the cockpit and the red anti-collision light atop the fuselage. All the colored lights were painted silver, then over-coated with MM Acrylic transparent paints of the appropriate  colors:




Next, a shot of the newly-unmasked bare-metal sensors on the tail, as well as the blue right wingtip light:




A shot showing the now unmasked bare metal gun muzzle panel, as well as the black wash used over the surface of the model to pop out indented detail, showing particularly the gun exhaust ports:




Well except for gluing on the canopies and last minute detail inspection she is done!.  However, am awaiting new 5000K light bulbs for the photo booth, so final pics will have to wait a day or two. (They were supposed to be delivered yesterday, but so far today, no joy...)


Back asap!












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Canopies on, minor blips touched up -- and she's done!


Except for removing the wing reinforcement panels and the wingtip antenna, adding new wingtip lights from white glue, and adding weapons from the Hasegawa Weapons sets mentioned abobe, this bit is bone stock OOB.












I really enjoyed building this old girl, as I hadn't built one in years. Even though the kit has raised panel lines, it doesn't appear very different from the fully scribed ones I've built, and I'm glad to add it to the Sam killers collection.





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