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chuck540z3

1/32 Kitty Hawk F-5E Kicked Up A Notch. June 19/19 Fixing Flaws

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59 minutes ago, chuck540z3 said:

 

This is what I use, made by High Performance Distributors.  It works fast, won't harm paint and plastic and unlike many accelerators, it doesn't stink.  I place some of it in a small bottle, then just dip a microbrush in it and apply as required.

 

 

 

Cheers,

Chuck

 

Thanks Chuck!  I am following your build and gleaning all the tips that I can.  Keep up the great work and keep those tutorials coming!  I am learning a lot!

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23 hours ago, chuck540z3 said:

 

 

Very good point Chris!  If I'm not sure I can sand CA glue within 30-45 minutes, I don't apply it all.  Better to be slow than have glue dry too long, which will become very hard to sand.

 

As for CMK Debonder, I haven't tried that yet, but like you, I can be sloppy with the application of CA glue and not worry about it, because the debonder cleans up any mess easily.

 

I have not tried the "Surgical Spears", mostly because the small microbrushes I buy soak up the glue and apply it in any way I want.  If you want cheap, I buy them in bulk like the link below, which is a bit over $0.02/brush.  If you look for hobby microbrushes they are expensive, but if you look for dental or make-up microbrushes they are much cheaper- and the very same thing!

 

Microbrushes on Amazon

 

Cheers.

Chuck

 

I saved a ton of cash buying them this way. I'll never buy them on a modeling site again.

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Posted (edited)
On 4/5/2019 at 1:11 PM, chuck540z3 said:

 

This is what I use, made by High Performance Distributors.  It works fast, won't harm paint and plastic and unlike many accelerators, it doesn't stink.  I place some of it in a small bottle, then just dip a microbrush in it and apply as required.

Cheers,

Chuck

 

Chuck and All: This is "Insta Set" which is made by Bob Smith Industries. That company sells to various dealers and hobby shops and sticks the business name on the bottle of what ever product they're selling as their own. Readily found here in the USA I might add.

Edited by Mr Matt Foley

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On 4/4/2019 at 5:44 PM, Zactoman said:

Great work Chuck! :worship:
And a very nice tutorial on using CA!
I would add one common sense/experience thing that you didn't emphasize:
Because filling, sanding and re-scribing is time sensitive, only work in small areas at a time. Don't get over-ambitious and apply glue to too many or too large an area or you may cause yourself problems.

 

I'm going to try the Great Planes debonder. Thanks for the tip. I use CMK debonder and it also doesn't seem to hurt plastic.
Because it doesn't hurt plastic I am able to do a sloppy job at gluing resin to plastic or visa-versa and then clean up the mess afterwards. Surgical spears (also called eye spears) work great for this. I use the cellulose/paper ones. I haven't tried the PVA foam ones and doubt they would be as effective for this. I got a bunch from my doctor years ago but they can be found online at medical supply places which don't seem to sell to the general public. There are some listed on eBay but they are the foam type and extremely expensive. If anybody knows a good (reasonable price) source for the cellulose type please let us know.

 

:cheers:

 

Chris you're a master yourself when using CA. I owned your "Building Jet Aircraft" video in the 90's and you demonstrated the value of using it many times. As such, I have used it since then in nearly every Aircraft build I do.

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Posted (edited)
On 4/6/2019 at 1:32 PM, Mr Matt Foley said:

 

Chuck and All: This is "Insta Set" which is made by Bob Smith Industries. That company sells to various dealers and hobby shops and sticks the business name on the bottle of what ever product they're selling as their own. Readily found here in the USA I might add.

 

Thanks!  That makes sense because I couldn't find "Hi Performance Distributors", because apparently it doesn't exist!

 

April 8/19

 

 

I’ve been a bit distracted lately with my other hobby, but I did get a chance to work on the wings.  Like much of the kit parts, they are a bit lumpy, the surface is slightly rough and the rivet detail is shallow and bit wide.  Without adding a dark wash, it’s hard to photograph, so you’ll just have to take my word for it.

 

 

b67ZKS.jpg

 

 

After giving the wings the same “Chuck” treatment I’ve given the rest of the model, the detail is much better and smoother.  This will be critical later for a smooth gloss black finish.  Also, rivet patterns were added according to references, top and bottom.

 

 

zuJlOM.jpg

 

 

4uCl6v.jpg

 

 

The bottom of the wings are a lot more complicated.

 

 

f56qxr.jpg

 

 

Here are the key things you should do if you follow my lead. 

1 The outer join does not exist, so it should be filled and sanded smooth, then a nose-like panel line scribed across it as shown.

2 The other join on the LEX is OK and should stay, but be re-scribed.

3 The gear bay walls should be glued securely to the top of the wing, because that’s all that’s holding on to the very weak landing gear legs.

4 If you aren’t using the inner pylons, do not open the holes as shown in the instructions in Step #19, while the outer pylon holes- which are already open- should be filled if you’re not using them.  Rather than just fill them with CA glue, I used styrene rod to create pylon anchor points or plugs with more detail, as found on the real deal.

 

 

B7bBoH.jpg

 

 

And this is all that’s holding the gear legs in place:  Two tiny slots.  Yikes!  While fairly accurate, they are fairly weak.  All the more reason to put them on at the very end of the build, like I usually do anyway.

 

 

pCkNCB.jpg

 

 

RegrxK.jpg

 

 

The wing to fuselage join isn’t horrible, but it’s not plug and play either.  While a chore to fix, this is more common in modeling than it’s not, so no big deal.  Again, a lot of those crooked ghost panel lines should disappear after a coat of paint (fingers crossed).

 

 

 

Z3b1Gp.jpg

 

 

Now a pic of my other hobby that is taking up valuable modeling time.  I just bought a new Nikon Z-7 mirrorless camera, to go with my D810 and D610.  While my D810 has a very large 36 MP sensor, this new toy has 46 MP!  For most photographers this is overkill, but I can crop my pics in half and still have very high resolution- and it weighs much less than the D810, which is always a pain around my neck on vacation.  To be honest, I think I like collecting camera equipment more than actually taking photos, sort of like modelers who have a huge stash of kits but never seem to find the time to build any of them. 

 

 

fEbMTI.jpg

 

 

I do take the odd pic, however, so I’ll just leave it at that.  Back to modeling soon enough.

 

 

ORuD5j.jpg

 

 

Cheers,

Chuck

Edited by chuck540z3

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Nice work on the F-5 so far Chuck!  Also beautiful picture!  Your new camera is this the first gen Nikon Mirrorless Digital?  Can you swap lenses from your other Nikon’s to the Z-7?

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Just now, Rocketdrvr said:

Nice work on the F-5 so far Chuck!  Also beautiful picture!  Your new camera is this the first gen Nikon Mirrorless Digital?  Can you swap lenses from your other Nikon’s to the Z-7?

 

Yup, with an FTZ adapter that is now "free" with the Z-7 kit.  The only problem is that by the time you put on the adapter and another big lens, it starts to get as big and heavy as the D810.  I bought the Z-7 mostly for holidays, so that I can have a really good camera without all the bulk and weight.

 

Cheers,

Chuck

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stellar work as always, chuck

just FYI, amazon doesnt ship the microbrushes you linked to europe, but on this side of the pond:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Pcs-Dental-Disposable-Materials-Micro-Brush-Tooth-Applicators-Medium-Fine/263922225200?hash=item3d72fd9030:m:moAWhOGgBiNfxSVp6jZYaDw&var=563368616294

these are from china (free shipping) and you can get four different sizes (i ordered two 100 packs for 4$). they look the same, so i hope they are usable

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3 hours ago, karl h said:

stellar work as always, chuck

just FYI, amazon doesnt ship the microbrushes you linked to europe, but on this side of the pond:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Pcs-Dental-Disposable-Materials-Micro-Brush-Tooth-Applicators-Medium-Fine/263922225200?hash=item3d72fd9030:m:moAWhOGgBiNfxSVp6jZYaDw&var=563368616294

these are from china (free shipping) and you can get four different sizes (i ordered two 100 packs for 4$). they look the same, so i hope they are usable

 

Great find Karl!  I just bought some more myself.  For these prices, they would have to be pretty bad to not be worth it- and I bet they are just fine.

 

I note that delivery is "April 28 to June 16" for my neck of the woods, so good thing I'm not in a rush! 

 

Cheers,

Chuck

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Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, chuck540z3 said:

 

Yup, with an FTZ adapter that is now "free" with the Z-7 kit.  The only problem is that by the time you put on the adapter and another big lens, it starts to get as big and heavy as the D810.  I bought the Z-7 mostly for holidays, so that I can have a really good camera without all the bulk and weight.

 

Cheers,

Chuck

 

Very nice Chuck! I'm a Nikon diehard and shoot a D750. I'm coming up on retirement in a couple years, I have my eye set on a Z-7 as a gift for myself.

Edited by Mr Matt Foley

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Posted (edited)

Sorry I have not been able to follow along as I normally do. Life gets in the way I guess. Some very slick work there Chuck. Love the rivetting and I got to get up the nerve one day to do that. I can scribe like nobody's business but rivetting is an art I think. Like the little tid bits of info on the underside too.

 

Nice cameras too Chuck. I too am a Nikon fan and have been for years. Still have my FE, FM and F70. Now have a D70s and maybe will upgrade one of these days. I will research that Z-7. Trying to find out what to do with my old ones. I will see if I can talk to a local camera club. Maybe I will keep my FM as it holds some very good memories for me.

 

Edited by skyhawk174

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On 4/8/2019 at 11:08 PM, chuck540z3 said:

 

And this is all that’s holding the gear legs in place:  Two tiny slots.  Yikes!  While fairly accurate, they are fairly weak.  All the more reason to put them on at the very end of the build, like I usually do anyway.

 

 

pCkNCB.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Hi Chuck.  In looking at this picture, it appears that the top of the gear leg doesn't touch the top of the wheel well.  What about adding a small shim to either the gear leg or the wheel well so that you have a tight mating surface that will give a dab of glue some extra purchase to add more stability and strengh to the join?  Just a thought.

 

BTW, beautiful shot and scenery.  It would be even better if you took this from your back porch.

 

Mike

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Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, AX 365 said:

Hi Chuck.  In looking at this picture, it appears that the top of the gear leg doesn't touch the top of the wheel well.  What about adding a small shim to either the gear leg or the wheel well so that you have a tight mating surface that will give a dab of glue some extra purchase to add more stability and strengh to the join?  Just a thought.

 

BTW, beautiful shot and scenery.  It would be even better if you took this from your back porch.

 

Mike

 

 

Thanks MIke.  Yes, the landing gear is slightly off the roof of the gear well, mostly because it's supposed to!  One side is flush while the other is raised.  I thought of doing what you have suggested, but I'll wait until final assembly to see if I really need to.

 

 

 

April 14/19

 

 

I finally finished the wings, including the control surfaces.  As with everything else, every panel line was re-scribed and every rivet re-punched.  I bet I’ve redone about 2,000+ rivets by now, but after a gloss black paint finish, it will be well worth it.

 

 

The wing to fuselage fit is not very good, but by sanding and dry fitting many times, you can get the fit close enough that you don’t need much in the way of filler.  Here’s how I did it:

 

 

1)  Sand and dry fit the wing to the fuselage to get as close a possible to a perfect fit.

 

2)  Apply Tamiya Extra Thin Cement (TETC) to the main portions of the wing to fuselage, then hold the parts tightly together with your hands until the parts are fused.  This takes about 5 minutes and don’t worry about getting glue to all portions of the join.

 

3)  Apply a good bead of TETC along the entire wing to fuselage join.  This not only adheres the wing, but it makes the plastic swell, helping to close small gaps.  Let it dry for 1 hour, then apply another bead, both top and bottom.  You want to use lots of glue, but not so much that you make the plastic too mushy.  Let it dry for 24 hours.

 

4)  Sand the join smooth with #1000 grit sandpaper, removing any excess glue marks on either side of the seam.  Remove the sanding dust.

 

5)  Apply thin masking tape to either side of the seam, leaving a small gap no bigger than what you need to fill.

 

6)  Thin some Tamiya Basic putty in a small jar with Tamiya lacquer thinner.  Since the putty smells exactly like the thinner, I bet it’s the very same stuff.  With a microbrush, apply the thinned putty along the seam.

 

7)  Using a Q-tip dipped in more Tamiya lacquer thinner, swipe along the seam to push the putty into the gaps and smooth the overall surface.  You want the putty to be slightly raised from the join, because it will shrink.

 

8-  Carefully remove the masking tape, which should leave a straight bead of slightly raised putty.  Let the putty dry for 24 hours.

 

9)  Sand the join smooth.  If you still have small holes and gaps, redo them with more thinned putty.

 

10)  For a final sealing micro-filler coat, paint on a thin bead of Future/Pledge on the seam and let it dry for 24 hours, then sand.  If you want to redo some areas, just apply Windex to a Q-tip or rag and remove it.

 

 

Now some pics.  The flaps and ailerons are just dry fitted and I will paint them separately for ease of handling.

 

 

 YalT3O.jpg

 

 

vdZDNW.jpg

 

 

 

The fit on the bottom turned out pretty good too.  The gear wells were painted before I glued on the wings.

 

 

 

ycMqqF.jpg

 

 

 

Now an often-ignored part of modeling wings.  The trailing edges of wings in most kits are too fat and they should be sanded down to thin them.  The ailerons in this kit do not fit the wings at all, so you need to sand each hinge down about 25% in order to get them to mesh properly.

 

 

 

GxZXyD.jpg

 

 

 

Based upon most reference pics of parked F-5’s, the rear flaps are usually straight while the ailerons are drooped down, while the front flaps can be straight or drooped down just slightly- which is how I’m going to pose them.  As somebody mentioned already, this is starting to look like a jet!

 

 

 

mEgawv.jpg

 

 

 

 

Thanks again for your comments and interest in this build.

 

 

Cheers,

Chuck

Edited by chuck540z3

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Hi Chuck,

Quick question. Are you doing the US Navy Aggressor version in your first pic or are you doing the actual movie version as far as the final paint job goes? 

 

Also, your work is paramount!

(See what I did there? 😏 )

 

-Zombiel

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7 minutes ago, Zombiel said:

Hi Chuck,

Quick question. Are you doing the US Navy Aggressor version in your first pic or are you doing the actual movie version as far as the final paint job goes? 

 

Also, your work is paramount!

(See what I did there? 😏 )

 

-Zombiel

 

Thanks!

 

Right now, it's total gloss black with red decals, but since nobody makes decals for the jet in my first pic, it will be a bit of a "what if".  With the many, many versions of Navy and Air Force F-5 Aggressors out there, it likely won't be noticed.

 

Cheers,

Chuck

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Really nice, detailed and informative build Chuck. I really like the step-by-step descriptions on how you go about putting this kit together which is really gratifying to watch! Keep them coming! 👍

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Gothca, Chuck.  The main thing is a sturdy set of legs to stand on.  Hopefully things aren't too spindly in the end.

 

Mike

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April 17/19

 

A quick public service announcement.  Like most of you guys, I use a lot of microbrushes of every description and go through maybe a hundred per model.  Purchased from my local hobby shop, they can cost $0.20/each or more.  I've bought them in bulk from the usual modeling internet sites for about half of that, but that was when I was looking for "Modeling or Hobby Microbrushes".  I discovered by accident a few years ago that if I looked for "Makeup or Dental Microbrushes", I found the very same thing- and more selection- for only $0.02/each!

 

Here's my latest order from ebay (or Amazon).  4 X 400 = 1,600 microbrushes for $31.50, delivered free to my door from China.  At this price, I don't have to worry about keeping any of them clean.

 

KqumrR.jpg

 

 

Cheers,

Chuck

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WORD! When you can buy them like that (I bought mine on Amazon) you you'd be a fool to buy the small packs marketed on Hobby Store sites.

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Outstanding work! Every single detail done to perfection! I can't wait until you start painting this bad boy! 

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Chuck,

Can I ask what the "Chuck" treatment is? Is it just like a Tamiya Panel Line Accent or do you have a different process? Also do you apply this treatment directly to the model or do you coat it with something first?

 

Asking for a friend! :woot.gif:

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On 4/24/2019 at 9:45 AM, Zombiel said:

Chuck,

Can I ask what the "Chuck" treatment is? Is it just like a Tamiya Panel Line Accent or do you have a different process? Also do you apply this treatment directly to the model or do you coat it with something first?

 

Asking for a friend! :woot.gif:

 

 

April 27/19

 

“Chuck Treatment”.  All that means is that every single piece of plastic is sanded smooth, every panel line re-scribed and every rivet re-punched- sometimes several times between sanding sessions which remove detail.  Some panel lines are added, others are removed and then I use Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color in Black to check my work.  You’d be surprised how many flaws that you can’t see pop out with this wash, which means less corrections later after a first coat of paint.

 

 

That’s a good segue into this next step with the tail of the jet.  The vertical stabilizer is two-piece like most kits, but instead of two equal sides, this one is split half-way on one side, which is a real pain to fix.  Further, there’s a sink mark and other surface flaws on the plastic.  My subject doesn’t have the fin cap, so it should be cut off and slightly rounded at the front edge.

 

 oSePGN.jpg

 

 

Again, after the “Chuck Treatment” of about 6 hours, it can look pretty darn good if I do say so myself.  The rudder and horizontal stabilizers are just dry fit.

 

 

2ng9xl.jpg

 

 

XyCFz3.jpg

 

 

 

There’s a circular gizmo that isn’t on my jet, so I cut it off and the main seam should be filled with panel lines rescribed.  You’d be surprised how many builds of this kit out there retained this seam as a panel line.  The bottom join is a bit crude, but with careful sanding and some thinned putty, the gap is filled.

 

 

 

3baRU0.jpg

 

 

 

Same with the front of the tail fin.  There should be only one panel line that extends down the sides and not two, so the front seam should be filled and sanded smooth.  Again, CA glue is clear and you can’t tell that it’s filled.  Checking references, I forgot to add another panel at the rear, which will be the demarcation line from black paint to titanium.

 

 

 

EugGpt.jpg

 

 

 

The horizontal stabilizers were sanded thinner and all trialing edges were sanded to a sharp edge.  The holes for the stabilizers are too wide, so I used a few coats of CA glue to tighten them up nice and snug for later installation.

 

 

 

L4S1ok.jpg

 

 

Frontal view for reference.

 

 

MzwJdy.jpg

 

 

 

In my earlier post of the wings, Paulo kindly pointed out that the ailerons were drooping down too low, which is the natural angle of the kit parts.

 

 

zafttM.jpg

 

 

The fix is tricky, but I found the main culprit is the outside hinges, which are too thick on the bottom, forcing the aileron down too far.  I carefully trimmed them with a knife, but to ensure a perfect angle, I glued them in with thin cement which is much stronger than CA glue after paint.  All other parts will be left off for ease of painting.  Note that the correct angle has the horizontal panel line on the aileron at the bottom of the wing- and no lower.

 

 

kknTJm.jpg

 

 

 

 

That’s it for now boys.  I’m off on another vacation in a week, because we Geezers need to travel while we're still above the dirt!

 

 

Cheers,

Chuck

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Hi Chuck,

 

Very nice work so far. 

 

BTW, I would like to ask you; do you think that the Kitty Hawk F-5E is more accurate than the AFV Club kit (different scales/companies but nonetheless both recent kits)?

 

 

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