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1/48 Su-34 Kihbiny ECM pods

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Now available!



This set includes wingtip Khibiny ECM pods designed to fit the Kitty Hawk kit.
Parts and instructions included to fit them to the Hobby Boss kit.




Can be modeled in 3 configurations:
1. Without photo-etch anti-flutter fences - Initial production through mid-2015.
2. With photo-etch anti-flutter fences - This modification began in mid-2015.
3. Updated nosecone with photo-etch anti-flutter fences - First appeared mid-2018.







Includes resin Khibiny pods and updated nosecones, photo-etch brass parts and pre-cut vinyl stiffener plates (for Hobby Boss kit).







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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the nice feedback guys :cheers:


A customer asked how I got the updated nosecone to fit so well in my bare resin pics.
Here are the steps I took to prepare and attach it (use a dust mask):


First I marked where to cut. I did this by cutting a piece if tape to the right width, approximately .060" wide (I forgot to include the dimension in my instruction sheet) and lightly marking the surface with a sharp blade.



Highlight the line so you can see where to cut and sand. I use a Stabillo "All" pencil. They have a waxy lead that works on almost all surfaces and are water soluble. I find that black red and white all come in handy. https://www.dickblick.com/products/stabilo-all-colored-marking-pencils/



Cut as close to the line as you are comfortable. Better to remove too little than too much.



If you intend to use a butt-joint as I show in the instructions, sand right up to the line being careful to keep things square.

If you are comfortable using a Dremel then just sand close to the line, but leave a little extra and go to the next step.


Remove the pour-stub from the nosecone and sand the back flat.

When doing a butt joint it helps to dish the center out a little so the outer edges sit tight together.

At this point you can glue the parts together*.


Edited by Zactoman
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While a butt-joint works fine, you can get a better joint and more precision when gluing by making a pocket and using the pour-stub provided on the nosecone part. If you're not confident about doing this just go with the butt.

First, cut the pour block off of the nosecone part but leave the small diameter pour-stub.

Drill a hole slightly bigger than 1/8" diameter in the body part to allow for the cutter used in the next step. I'm using a pointed cone burr mounted in my Dremel but you can also use a drill bit. The hole should be deeper than the pocket you will be cutting next.



Using a Dremel 9901 cutting bit carefully cut a pocket for the nosecone pour-stub to fit. The diameter can be slightly larger than the stub and doesn't have to be perfect, just don't cut through the outer wall. Depth doesn't have to be perfect, deeper is OK or you could remove some of the stub from the nosecone part.

Keep in mind the rotation direction and cut in a clockwise direction. Take your time and test fit frequently.

This bit is my most used tool for the Dremel. It cuts resin like butter and works great on plastic. It's flat on the end so it's not good for plunging/boring holes, but the flat end keeps it from grabbing which makes it great for cutting pockets.


Now that you have a tube, it's easier to sand right up to the line you marked earlier and you're ready to glue.



*For either method I recommend using five minute epoxy so you have time to precisely position the parts. Use just enough that a little oozes bit out. Remove any excess but leave it slightly proud of the surface. Allow this to dry thoroughly (several hours) and then sand and polish.
I'd also recommend using tape or liquid mask to cover the details on the body in case you use too much glue.






Edited by Zactoman
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16 hours ago, kotey said:

Chris, you very well learned you lessons and made the work, I accept you in honourable Russians :cheers:

An honorary Russian?  I will always be an American first but am pleased to accept this honor. :worship:  Oгромное спасибо



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  • 4 months later...

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