USAFsparkchaser Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 So looking at Xuron cutters for PE. Pretty sure that will be a good tool. Do I need to get Tamiya diamond file? Or will any small file set suffice. Also do I need pliers for bending? I see tamiya makes 2 kinds, as well as tweezers do you recommend getting them. Also what cement do I use for PE? I also see Tamiya makes cement for PE. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kurt H. Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 I would definitely recommend the Tamiya diamond file. It works very well. To attach parts I usually use thin CA and a glue looper. For a part you might need some time to reposition, then something like Deluxe "Super 'Phatic" glue has a strong bond, and gives time to move the part around, for something like an instrument panel. I think it is similar to white glue, but stronger. I use a combination of a PE workstation, pliers, tweezers, or just my fingers to bend parts. just depends on the part and how it needs to bend. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 Like Kurt, I use 2 types of glue for PE. CA for edge bonds, like in a box or this 1/48 Browning M2 using Eduard PE and a Master barrel. I'll use an acrylic glue, like Gator's Grip or Formula 560 Canopy Glue, for surface bonds. In addition to the setting time benefit, these glues are also flexible, which is important to reduce the risk of a failed bond due to the differing thermal expansion properties of plastic and metal. I don't like shears to cut PE. I prefer a round-edge knife blade like a #10 blade. I cut the part free by rocking the blade across the PE tab against a rigid surface, like a glass or metal plate. You do need to hold the part down while it's being cut lest it fly into oblivion. Once cut free, a file will clean up the burrs remaining from the cutting operation, no matter how it was accomplished. A PE workstation helps you get sharp corners, which really helps when folding complicated assemblies like the parts on that Browning M2. I like The Bug from The Small Shop. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
admiralcag Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 Echoing what Kurt said. I have a set of diamond files from Harbor Freight, but I think the Tamiya will last longer. I also have a pair of Xuron smooth jaw wide pliers and a pair of Xuron smooth jaw needle nose pliers. I use a #10 blade as well. Nothing is more frustrating than launching a piece of etch into the stratosphere! Vern Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mstor Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 For a cutting surface and to hold the part while cutting using a #10 blade, I got one of these: https://thesmallshop.com/collections/photo-etch-cut-off-sets/products/sms015-photo-etch-cut-off-set-standard-by-the-small-shop Works wonderfully. I use it for cutting all PE now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stalker6recon Posted March 29, 2019 Share Posted March 29, 2019 On 2/19/2019 at 12:04 AM, admiralcag said: I use a #10 blade as well. Nothing is more frustrating than launching a piece of etch into the stratosphere! Just out of curiosity, has anyone tried a piece of tape over the PE part while cutting it from the tree? I am new to modelling after a 30 year layoff and this will be my first time using PE. Two things from all I have read, first, I should buy the benders available since I have some complex seats in PE, second, before cutting from the tree, a simple piece of tape seems like a logical answer to the flying PE. Does that sound like a smart choice before I get into trouble with those seats? Thanks in advance, Anthony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Williams Posted March 29, 2019 Share Posted March 29, 2019 I usually put a doubled over piece of tape under the PE part when cutting it out, not on top of it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stalker6recon Posted March 29, 2019 Share Posted March 29, 2019 3 hours ago, Dave Williams said: I usually put a doubled over piece of tape under the PE part when cutting it out, not on top of it. Logical, good tip to share, thanks! Anthony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stalker6recon Posted April 10, 2019 Share Posted April 10, 2019 On 2/18/2019 at 10:49 AM, Kurt H. said: To attach parts I usually use thin CA and a glue looper. While doing my typical marathon reads on britmodeller.com today (I usually spend a day at one or the other, ARC/Britmodeller.com) I ran into some information that got me thinking. So, would you use a looper to apply Tamiya extra thin cement to freshly scribed panel lines in order to "melt" the lines in an attempt to even them out? And would the looper also be good at applying paint the same way, giving panel lines a crisp look? Obviously not for raised lines, but engraved one. Thanks again for the help, I don't know what I would do without you guys! Anthony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kurt H. Posted April 10, 2019 Share Posted April 10, 2019 2 hours ago, Stalker6recon said: While doing my typical marathon reads on britmodeller.com today (I usually spend a day at one or the other, ARC/Britmodeller.com) I ran into some information that got me thinking. So, would you use a looper to apply Tamiya extra thin cement to freshly scribed panel lines in order to "melt" the lines in an attempt to even them out? And would the looper also be good at applying paint the same way, giving panel lines a crisp look? Obviously not for raised lines, but engraved one. Thanks again for the help, I don't know what I would do without you guys! Anthony It is worth experimenting, I do not know if Tamiya extra thin has sufficient surface tension to stay in a glue looper. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stalker6recon Posted April 11, 2019 Share Posted April 11, 2019 12 hours ago, Kurt H. said: It is worth experimenting, I do not know if Tamiya extra thin has sufficient surface tension to stay in a glue looper. I am going to order a few sets of the loopers, probably on ebay, my choices are pretty limited in the Philippines, so everything must be shipped. Better to buy a few and get hit once for shipping and duties, than to buy it over and over again. Anyway, once they arrive, I will play around with them, see if they have the uses I am thinking about. I will report back with pictures when I get the results. Anthony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kurt H. Posted April 11, 2019 Share Posted April 11, 2019 5 hours ago, Stalker6recon said: I am going to order a few sets of the loopers, probably on ebay, my choices are pretty limited in the Philippines, so everything must be shipped. Better to buy a few and get hit once for shipping and duties, than to buy it over and over again. Anyway, once they arrive, I will play around with them, see if they have the uses I am thinking about. I will report back with pictures when I get the results. Anthony they come in different sizes. There is one pack with 3 different sizes, the v2 . this would be a good way to start. http://www.creativedynamicllc.com/the-glue-looper.html Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stalker6recon Posted April 11, 2019 Share Posted April 11, 2019 22 minutes ago, Kurt H. said: they come in different sizes. Good to know, I will take a look at their selection before I ebay/amazon it. Sometime on Amazon, I have found free shipping, which is nice. My hasegawa scribing saws were free shipping, so I used that last few dollars in my account to order a set. It had something like 700 plus reviews and nearly a full five stars, which is impressive. I am excited to get my hands on them. Cheers, Anthony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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