How to install stretched sprue wire antennas?

[11bee]

Trying to install an antenna that runs from the tail to a mount forward of the cockpit on my 32nd scale Corsair.  Anyone have any tips for this?  For the life of me, I can't get this to work.   First time I almost had it but it was sagging.  I applied a bit of heat to tighten the sprue up but apparently too fast and the sprue pulled off one of the antenna posts. 

 

Now for some reason, I can't get  even get the sprue to stick.  I'm using superglue and despite how long I can manage to hold the sprue in place with a pair of tweezers, it inevitably slides off as soon as I release it.  Should I try another type of glue?  

 

Quite frustrating, I don't see how the masters are able to replicate these things so well on their models.  Any tips are appreciated.  

 

[dnl42]

Why not your usual plastic glue? Tamiya Thin should do fine. I often use 6mil carbon fiber for this, and I use either CA or PVA.

[11bee]

30 minutes ago, dnl42 said:

Why not your usual plastic glue? Tamiya Thin should do fine. I often use 6mil carbon fiber for this, and I use either CA or PVA.

Hmm.....  I figured regular glue would have dissolved the sprue.    I’ll do a test run tonight.  

 

Thank you for the tip! 

[dnl42]

You do have to be careful. I used stretched sprue to make the rolled edges of winch cover in my LCM build in the D Day GB.

[Tgoetz]

EZ line.  Works like a charm.  

 

http://bobes-hobby-house.shoplightspeed.com/tags/ez-line/

[Mstor]

9 hours ago, 11bee said:

Now for some reason, I can't get  even get the sprue to stick.  I'm using superglue and despite how long I can manage to hold the sprue in place with a pair of tweezers, it inevitably slides off as soon as I release it.

 

I have found that if you do not remove all vestiges of the old dried superglue, the new super glue will not adhere properly. This can become a real pain in the you know what when dealing with small, thin or delicate parts that one must remove the dried on superglue from. Using a superglue dissolver is very helpful.

[Dutch]

@Tgoetz,  Great find!  I will order some for my 1/144 transports & MARPAT aircraft. R/ Dutch. 

Edited March 7, 2019 by Dutch

[nachjager]

A fellow modeler uses  .008 bronze rod as antenna, I tried once and was more than satisfied with the results. This type of  wire is very fine, hair-like but rigid I. He also use it for rigging WW1 planes.

https://www.megahobby.com/shop?search_query=008+Phosphor+Bronze

[Mstor]

I've used very thin stainless steel wire on model ships. It is not cheap but is available in diameters down to .003". If I remember correctly, I used .005" wire for a 1/350 Yamato. Nice thing about it is that it stays very straight and does not sag once attached.

 

http://www.componentsupplycompany.com/stainlesssteelwire.php

 

[goondman]

On 2/25/2019 at 5:01 PM, Tgoetz said:

EZ line.  Works like a charm.  

 

http://bobes-hobby-house.shoplightspeed.com/tags/ez-line/

What size for 1/48, 1/32?

[Jonathan S]

I anchor one point first on a very long fishing line, far longer than you need.   Once that glue is set (CA or fancy white glue) I run the long line to a nearby wall and tape that to the wall keeping the line slack during that process.  Place that tape slightly lower than your final fixing point on the model.  Slowly move the model away from the wall till the line become tight to desired level.  Then lift the line up to where you want it and friction at the top will hold it in place.  Glue and then cut the excess.  I use nail clippers, fine scissors or cutting tweezers to trim.  The nice thing is, it's as tight as you want, so you don't have to run the risk of over heating to tighten that you experience with stretched sprue.

 

How or where you tape the long far end of the line will become more obvious as you get comfortable with this process.

 

I hope my explanation makes sense.  I hope it can be as revolutionary as it was for me. It took my rigging from a nightmare to being something I look forward to doing.

 

This isn't my idea, but an out of the box way of thinking of this process.  I use it to rig ships as well.

 

My experience, we should only use stretched sprue for "Out of box" building.

[Dutch]

Jonathan, Excellent explanation of attached aerials to aircraft or anything for that matter.  I plan on trying this technique with my RC-135 & P-3 builds soon. One more reason I really enjoy this forum.  R/ Dutch

Edited March 7, 2019 by Dutch

[Jonathan S]

 

1 hour ago, Dutch said:

Jonathan, Excellent explanation of attached aerials to aircraft or anything for that matter.  I plan on trying this technique with my RC-135 builds soon. One more reason I really enjoy this forum.  R/ Dutch

Thanks Dutch, was a real game changer for me this technique.

 

Once you get the concept I've noted above, modify it based on what you are doing.  Instead of the wall, I often run to a heavy fluid filled bottle.  This way you can move the bottle instead of the model to give tension to the line you are running.  I like to keep the bottle far enough away that if it fell over, it wouldn't hit the model.

 

Once the second part of the line is anchored, release the tension to make it easier to cut the line.

 

If the line requires one long line that hits several contact points, just keep going using same technique for each contact point.  You see that mostly with ships that run lines from the bow, to main mast, to mast to stern.

 

An issue I've found with stretched sprue for a antenna is that they some times have air pockets that stretch with the sprue and you can't tell they are there. If you have this, the antenna is very week but you can't tell it's there.

 

I mostly stretch sprue for making wicks, a disposable tools to apply liquid putty (MR Surface).   Stretch and then cut out the middle.