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Prowler Nose Cone destroyed. Options?


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So I’m working on the Kinetic EA-6B and it’s coming together. I was placing the nose cone part and saw the instructions suggested weighting down the nose. I took my putty and filled the cone up and slide a couple quarters in as well for good measure. After an hour or so I glued the nose on the jet. The next day I painted the model. Now this afternoon, (24 hours after the paint job), I noticed wrinkles in the nose. As touched to see what was going on and the nose dented in like it was chewing gum when I touched it. I literally pulled it apart. It appears the putty disintegrated the plastic. Now I need a replacement nose cone. I have emailed Kinetic’s address I found online, but in case I can’t get a replacement part, does anyone have any suggestions for a new nose cone? Thanks, and now lesson learned about using putty in that manner.

 

regards,

 

jim

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What putty did you use?  Sounds like what happened back in the day when I used too much Tube Glue.

 

I would personally let it sit for about a week.  See if it eventually cures.

 

Then I would get proper putty,  I use automotive Bondo, and rebuild the nose with the Bondo.  Built up putty and smooth it with sanding stick.  Will take some time.

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8 hours ago, Jonathan S said:

Then I would get proper putty,  I use automotive Bondo, and rebuild the nose with the BondoBuilt up putty and smooth it with sanding stick.

 

But that isn't structural, and in large amounts you still have his old problem. For something large you really need a two-part epoxy or polyester putty used for scratchbuilding. The reason adamitri asked about pictures is that we need to see if the thing is salvageable or not. It sounds like the part is in multiple jagged pieces, so the only options are a new part or someone with the kit making a resin copy of their part.

 

And hey, a solid resin nose would solve the weight problem too.

 

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So it’s destroyed. When I poked it the dent became huge and after that, without thinking it through I just pulled it apart.

 

i did contact Lucky models and got a response. But it’s been slow. I do expect to get a replacement part but if it doesn’t come then I’m up a creek without a paddle...

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Thanks for all the advice. I emailed lucky models, they got back to me quickly and asked only for my mailing address. Haven’t heard a peep since then, no bill, no tracking number, nothing. I’m crossing my fingers.

 

As for the putty I used: squadron products white putty fast dry formula. And for the record, almost a week later and what’s left of the nose cone is still soft to the touch... so it’s ruined.

 

 

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5 hours ago, Jimd0586 said:

As for the putty I used: squadron products white putty fast dry formula. And for the record, almost a week later and what’s left of the nose cone is still soft to the touch... so it’s ruined.

 

Needless to say, as you have discovered, the solvents used in that type of putty will attack plastic. When used in small amounts, it helps the putty adhere to plastic. Use too much and, as you have found to your dismay, it will attack and dissolve styrene plastic.

I use Apoxie Sculpt, a two part epoxy putty that can be formed and smoothed with water. Comes in plastic jugs so lasts a long time. Has a very fine texture. It's uses are numerous.

For weights I have started using Liquid Gravity. Its tiny metal beads that come in a plastic bottle. You simply pour it into a cavity, pour some super glue over it and let it set. Here's a review:

https://web.ipmsusa3.org/content/liquid-gravity

 

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On ‎3‎/‎1‎/‎2019 at 5:07 PM, spejic said:

 

But that isn't structural, and in large amounts you still have his old problem. For something large you really need a two-part epoxy or polyester putty used for scratchbuilding. The reason adamitri asked about pictures is that we need to see if the thing is salvageable or not. It sounds like the part is in multiple jagged pieces, so the only options are a new part or someone with the kit making a resin copy of their part.

 

And hey, a solid resin nose would solve the weight problem too.

 

 

Yeah, two part epoxy is also a good idea here.  I forgot about that one and even used that recently, yikes.   Bondo is stronger than you think for a subject this size especially if using to build onto the existing part.  But wouldn't use either to totally build a new nose.

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Forgive me if this is a stupid question, but if we are merely talking about adding ballast, then why even bother with putty?   Why not just keep it simple with thick or rubberized CA or even just PVA?  

 

 

 

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18 hours ago, BaconRaygun said:

Forgive me if this is a stupid question, but if we are merely talking about adding ballast, then why even bother with putty?   Why not just keep it simple with thick or rubberized CA or even just PVA?   

 

 

 

 

For ballast gluing, I use lead fishing weights and glue in place with CA.  It's something you have to take a bit of care doing. as the CA can run everywhere if you aren't careful.  For me because I normally only have the really flowing stuff on hand. :-)

Edited by Jonathan S
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Just as an FYI, the Kinetic Prowler doesn't require nose weight. I've built six of them, five within the last few days, and not a single one had weight added. None were tail sitters as the majority of the weight is forward of the kits center of gravity. 

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Thanks all. This started as a "how exactly do I get a replacement part/craft one myself, to a how did this happen and why, to a the model doesn't need nose weight!" Dave Roof, I do believe you. However, I will point out that the instructions in the kit (at least the one I have) says to add 50 grams to the nose for ballast.

 

Regardless, lessons learned. I am still waiting on the replacement nose cone. Haven't heard anything from Kinetic or Lucky Models since they asked for my mailing address. It may be on its way or it may not be. Again, if anyone has ANY ideas as to how to make a makeshift nose, I may need it! We shall see.

 

FYI, certain putties eat away plastic, so don't use it as a form of ballast! ;) Take it from someone that knows!

 

Jim

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How do you feel about a whole lot of sanding? 

 

You can carve one out of 1" thick foam board (a few bucks from home depot or similar), making it intentionally too small by a few percent.  Then coat it with a mixture of 2 part epoxy and filler (you can use the foam dust from sanding, or order some microbaloons).  You can then send, polish and scribe to your hearts desire.  

 

You can also get the epoxy and filler at most marine suppliers.  Make sure it's epoxy, not poly and hardener (that will melt the foam). 

 

You can probably use closed cell rubber foam too, but that may be more difficult to work with.   

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  • 2 weeks later...
7 minutes ago, Jimd0586 said:

Thanks all. Got a replacement from Lucky Models and no bill for it. They weren't much for updates on shipping and status of the piece but hey, I won't complain!

 


They are so quick.  Once I inquired about a part and they shipped it to me without asking for a mailing address, they mailed it to my work.  Had forgotten that it was part of the footer in my email.  Glad it made it to me as I work in a bigger company.

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