lulldapull Posted April 2, 2019 Share Posted April 2, 2019 Hi gents, been struggling with this quirky issue on my Amodel Yak-28R's two part nose glass house. Is there a way to eliminate this seam? The joints are unfortunately not on the framing. Anyone else tackle this beast here? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mstor Posted April 2, 2019 Share Posted April 2, 2019 The joints are not on the framing? You mean they are in the middle of the transparent part of the nose cone? Wow, that's messed up. I don't think there is any way to eliminate the seam completely so that it would appear transparent. Would be better off trying to make a vacuform replacement (or what I think is called a smash press, where you heat the clear plastic and then quickly pull it down over the mold). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lulldapull Posted April 2, 2019 Author Share Posted April 2, 2019 yup......it is messed up. Sounds like my path forward is to glue them using white glue, sand/ polish/ buff........followed by a future bath. Fingers crossed that ugly seam gets minimized. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MoFo Posted April 3, 2019 Share Posted April 3, 2019 (edited) LOCA. Used to adhere digitizers to LCDs in cell phones. Readily available at Amazon, eBay, Ali Express. and the like.  Edited April 3, 2019 by MoFo edited to correct the spam filter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mstor Posted April 3, 2019 Share Posted April 3, 2019 1 hour ago, MoFo said: LOCA. Used to adhere digitizers to LCDs in cell phones. Readily available at Amazon, eBay, I am a spammer, please report this post. and the like.  Never heard of the stuff. Looks very interesting. Thanks for sharing that MoFo. Always like learning of new tools. Would suggest reading up on this stuff before using it. Looks like it requires a UV lamp to cure, but dries optically clear. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lulldapull Posted April 4, 2019 Author Share Posted April 4, 2019 On 4/3/2019 at 9:26 AM, MoFo said: LOCA. Used to adhere digitizers to LCDs in cell phones. Readily available at Amazon, eBay, Ali Express. and the like.  Thanks for this info. Will look for this LOCA glue at my local electronics shop. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
habu2 Posted April 4, 2019 Share Posted April 4, 2019 Any gluing, sanding, filling etc will not eliminate light diffraction across the joint. You might minimize it somewhat but the discontinuity will always diffract light, making it visible. Your best bet is to try making a vacu-formed replacement from the kit parts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mstor Posted April 5, 2019 Share Posted April 5, 2019 Lulldapull, what kit is this? I am curious what manufacturer would design a clear part that way. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lulldapull Posted April 6, 2019 Author Share Posted April 6, 2019 (edited) 13 hours ago, Mstor said: Lulldapull, what kit is this? I am curious what manufacturer would design a clear part that way. Amodels Yak-28R.........Hard to believe but looks like they couldn't inject the mitered conical nose cone glass house in one piece. Be warned that Amodels kits are a serious headache! Â Short run and intended only for the collectors or diehards. Edited April 6, 2019 by lulldapull Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mstor Posted April 6, 2019 Share Posted April 6, 2019 (edited) Well, that's just weird. I looked up the kit and you're right. The seam is right down the middle of the top and bottom glass panels. What makes this so strange is that for their Yak-28PP model they molded the glass nose cone as one piece. Looking at the framing, I think it is the vertical frames that caused Amodel to mold it as two parts, as it would be difficult to get them to show up properly cast as one piece. The PP version has no vertical frames. I wonder if you could get a clear sprue from Amodel for their PP version and sand off all the framing and then mask and paint new frames? Just an idea. Here's a build up of a PP model: http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/Gal10/9701-9800/gal9718-Yak-28-Stern/00.shtm Here's some pics of a R model kit built up. You can still see the seam but the builder did a pretty good job of minimizing it: https://www.mojehobby.pl/gallery/YAK-28R-AFGANISTAN-1980-AMODEL-1-72-001.html In any case, you have your work cut out for you. Doesn't look like Amodel kits are a walk in the park. Â Edited April 6, 2019 by Mstor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheRealMrEd Posted April 13, 2019 Share Posted April 13, 2019 If you're into casting your own parts, www.moldputty.com has a clear casting material.  I've used it in the past to cast clear parts -- works great!  Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ORANGF15Guy Posted April 13, 2019 Share Posted April 13, 2019 (edited) I also used a product called Shine Cote.  It's a two part casting resin that dries crystal clear and is UV resistant and won't yellow over time.  You can also tint the product using resin tints.  It's great for casting and it's on Amazon Edited April 14, 2019 by ORANGF15Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lulldapull Posted April 14, 2019 Author Share Posted April 14, 2019 (edited) On 4/6/2019 at 11:07 PM, Mstor said: Well, that's just weird. I looked up the kit and you're right. The seam is right down the middle of the top and bottom glass panels. What makes this so strange is that for their Yak-28PP model they molded the glass nose cone as one piece. Looking at the framing, I think it is the vertical frames that caused Amodel to mold it as two parts, as it would be difficult to get them to show up properly cast as one piece. The PP version has no vertical frames. I wonder if you could get a clear sprue from Amodel for their PP version and sand off all the framing and then mask and paint new frames? Just an idea. Here's a build up of a PP model: http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/Gal10/9701-9800/gal9718-Yak-28-Stern/00.shtm Here's some pics of a R model kit built up. You can still see the seam but the builder did a pretty good job of minimizing it: https://www.mojehobby.pl/gallery/YAK-28R-AFGANISTAN-1980-AMODEL-1-72-001.html In any case, you have your work cut out for you. Doesn't look like Amodel kits are a walk in the park. Â Â Hey bud, the Yak-28R Nose cone is mitred at an angle where it butts up to the fuselage. The PP nose cone is very different (square). I'll post up some pics when finished. P.S. This particular kit has gotta be one of the worst things I've put my hands on....The two engine pods are not the same either in end cross sections, and when installed you can see the difference in dimensions, the intakes/ exhaust are different (starboard/ Port)......they also install wonky, with one slightly higher/ off angle than the other (with the wings lined up and flush against the wing/ fuselage mounts).....Just atrocious! Edited April 14, 2019 by lulldapull Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob de Bie Posted April 14, 2019 Share Posted April 14, 2019 I'm also slowly building this difficult model. To fix the nacelle problem, I installed K&S brass tube at either end, that worked really well. Â Â I'm now working on all those small inlets on the nacelles. Â Â For the nose cone I'm planning to do the following. I've cast resin copies of the nose halve and assembled them. I plan to sand it completely smooth, but before that I want to take measurements for a complete masking set for all the windows, cut on a Silhouette cutter. After that I will make a smooth vacform copy, using the club vacforming machine. With the masking set I will the recreate the frames. To complicate things futher, I seem to remember that the fit of the nose cone against the fuselage is also problematic, so the vacform master might need some modifications too. Â Â As you can see, a silly amount of work.. Â Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lulldapull Posted April 14, 2019 Author Share Posted April 14, 2019 (edited) 5 hours ago, Rob de Bie said: I'm also slowly building this difficult model. To fix the nacelle problem, I installed K&S brass tube at either end, that worked really well.   I'm now working on all those small inlets on the nacelles.   For the nose cone I'm planning to do the following. I've cast resin copies of the nose halve and assembled them. I plan to sand it completely smooth, but before that I want to take measurements for a complete masking set for all the windows, cut on a Silhouette cutter. After that I will make a smooth vacform copy, using the club vacforming machine. With the masking set I will the recreate the frames. To complicate things futher, I seem to remember that the fit of the nose cone against the fuselage is also problematic, so the vacform master might need some modifications too.   As you can see, a silly amount of work..  Rob   My my.......lol.......phew.......this butt-fits wonky on the fuselage. Be warned. I'd like to see the end result.  This might just solve the nose glass house drama on this miserable kit, if you successfully manage this hack.  This Russian site has a couple built up for reference. Both not exactly R's.....but hey:  https://karopka.ru/community/user/13501/?MODEL=261190 https://karopka.ru/community/user/19124/?MODEL=394774  My inspiration: https://vaul.ru/o-sajte/novosti/45-samoljoty/778-samoljot-yak-28  The 2 tone Fs34079/ Tan versions look fantastic! Very unique and beats all other R camou scheme's, IMO. Some great detail shots there too.  Edited April 14, 2019 by lulldapull Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob de Bie Posted April 15, 2019 Share Posted April 15, 2019 22 hours ago, lulldapull said: My my.......lol.......phew.......this butt-fits wonky on the fuselage. Be warned. I'd like to see the end result.  This might just solve the nose glass house drama on this miserable kit, if you successfully manage this hack.  This Russian site has a couple built up for reference. Both not exactly R's.....but hey:  https://karopka.ru/community/user/13501/?MODEL=261190 https://karopka.ru/community/user/19124/?MODEL=394774  My inspiration: https://vaul.ru/o-sajte/novosti/45-samoljoty/778-samoljot-yak-28  The 2 tone Fs34079/ Tan versions look fantastic! Very unique and beats all other R camou scheme's, IMO. Some great detail shots there too.   I'm working on and off on this model, gathering strength and courage in the off days 🙂 so it might take a while before I have a vacform part.  Like you I'm planning a two-tone brown scheme for my model. But I'm talking years ahead of time now 😟  Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
modelmax Posted April 16, 2019 Share Posted April 16, 2019 Great job Rob.  I see you haven't give up on yours... It's been years since I gave up on mine, a Yak-28L. And that's because on the L, the seam can be hidden with paint!  those scoops look great! I would sure buy some from you if you decide to sell.  Keep up the great work.  Ernie A.      Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob de Bie Posted April 16, 2019 Share Posted April 16, 2019 4 hours ago, modelmax said: Great job Rob.  I see you haven't give up on yours... It's been years since I gave up on mine, a Yak-28L. And that's because on the L, the seam can be hidden with paint!  those scoops look great! I would sure buy some from you if you decide to sell.  I'm sloooowly gearing up for resin reproduction of the inlets. You need no less than 10 of the type shown below for one model. But there are more types on the nacelle, and I haven't started building those.   The missing inlets look a bit like the smaller ones of my U-2 inlet set (shown below), so I'm confident that I can make them.   Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lulldapull Posted April 17, 2019 Author Share Posted April 17, 2019 Gents I'm nearing completion. It looks OK, won't be winning any contests..........just glad its almost over. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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