Jump to content
ARC Discussion Forums
  • advertisement_alt
  • advertisement_alt
  • advertisement_alt
lulldapull

Filling a seam on a two part clear nose cone

Recommended Posts

Hi gents, been struggling with this quirky issue on my Amodel Yak-28R's two part nose glass house. Is there a way to eliminate this seam? The joints are unfortunately not on the framing. Anyone else tackle this beast here?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The joints are not on the framing? You mean they are in the middle of the transparent part of the nose cone? Wow, that's messed up. I don't think there is any way to eliminate the seam completely so that it would appear transparent. Would be better off trying to make a vacuform  replacement (or what I think is called a smash press, where you heat the clear plastic and then quickly pull it down over the mold).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yup......it is messed up. Sounds like my path forward is to glue them using white glue, sand/ polish/ buff........followed by a future bath. Fingers crossed that ugly seam gets minimized.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

LOCA.  Used to adhere digitizers to LCDs in cell phones.  Readily available at Amazon, eBay, Ali Express. and the like.

 

Edited by MoFo
edited to correct the spam filter

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, MoFo said:

LOCA.  Used to adhere digitizers to LCDs in cell phones.  Readily available at Amazon, eBay, I am a spammer, please report this post. and the like.

 

Never heard of the stuff. Looks very interesting. Thanks for sharing that MoFo. Always like learning of new tools.

Would suggest reading up on this stuff before using it. Looks like it requires a UV lamp to cure, but dries optically clear.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 4/3/2019 at 9:26 AM, MoFo said:

LOCA.  Used to adhere digitizers to LCDs in cell phones.  Readily available at Amazon, eBay, Ali Express. and the like.

 

Thanks for this info. Will look for this LOCA glue at my local electronics shop.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Any gluing, sanding, filling etc will not eliminate light diffraction across the joint.  You might minimize it somewhat but the discontinuity will always diffract light, making it visible.  Your best bet is to try making a vacu-formed replacement from the kit parts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lulldapull, what kit is this? I am curious what manufacturer would design a clear part that way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
13 hours ago, Mstor said:

Lulldapull, what kit is this? I am curious what manufacturer would design a clear part that way.

Amodels Yak-28R.........Hard to believe but looks like they couldn't inject the mitered conical nose cone glass house in one piece. Be warned that Amodels kits are a serious headache!

 

Short run and intended only for the collectors or diehards.

Edited by lulldapull

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Well, that's just weird. I looked up the kit and you're right. The seam is right down the middle of the top and bottom glass panels. What makes this so strange is that for their Yak-28PP model they molded the glass nose cone as one piece. Looking at the framing, I think it is the vertical frames that caused Amodel to mold it as two parts, as it would be difficult to get them to show up properly cast as one piece. The PP version has no vertical frames.

I wonder if you could get a clear sprue from Amodel for their PP version and sand off all the framing and then mask and paint new frames? Just an idea. Here's a build up of a PP model:

http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/Gal10/9701-9800/gal9718-Yak-28-Stern/00.shtm

Here's some pics of a R model kit built up. You can still see the seam but the builder did a pretty good job of minimizing it:

https://www.mojehobby.pl/gallery/YAK-28R-AFGANISTAN-1980-AMODEL-1-72-001.html

In any case, you have your work cut out for you. Doesn't look like Amodel kits are a walk in the park.

 

Edited by Mstor

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you're into casting your own parts, www.moldputty.com has a clear casting material.   I've used it in the past to cast clear parts -- works great!

 

Ed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I also used a product called Shine Cote.  It's a two part casting resin that dries crystal clear and is UV resistant and won't yellow over time.  You can also tint the product using resin tints.  It's great for casting and it's on Amazon

Edited by ORANGF15Guy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 4/6/2019 at 11:07 PM, Mstor said:

Well, that's just weird. I looked up the kit and you're right. The seam is right down the middle of the top and bottom glass panels. What makes this so strange is that for their Yak-28PP model they molded the glass nose cone as one piece. Looking at the framing, I think it is the vertical frames that caused Amodel to mold it as two parts, as it would be difficult to get them to show up properly cast as one piece. The PP version has no vertical frames.

I wonder if you could get a clear sprue from Amodel for their PP version and sand off all the framing and then mask and paint new frames? Just an idea. Here's a build up of a PP model:

http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/Gal10/9701-9800/gal9718-Yak-28-Stern/00.shtm

Here's some pics of a R model kit built up. You can still see the seam but the builder did a pretty good job of minimizing it:

https://www.mojehobby.pl/gallery/YAK-28R-AFGANISTAN-1980-AMODEL-1-72-001.html

In any case, you have your work cut out for you. Doesn't look like Amodel kits are a walk in the park.

 

 

Hey bud, the Yak-28R Nose cone is mitred at an angle where it butts up to the fuselage. The PP nose cone is very different (square). I'll post up some pics when finished.

P.S. This particular kit has gotta be one of the worst things I've put my hands on....The two engine pods are not the same either in end cross sections, and when installed you can see the difference in dimensions, the intakes/ exhaust are different (starboard/ Port)......they also install wonky, with one slightly higher/ off angle than the other (with the wings lined up and flush against the wing/ fuselage mounts).....Just atrocious!

Edited by lulldapull

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm also slowly building this difficult model. To fix the nacelle problem, I installed K&S brass tube at either end, that worked really well.

 

yak28-09.jpg

 

I'm now working on all those small inlets on the nacelles.

 

yak28-22.jpg

 

For the nose cone I'm planning to do the following. I've cast resin copies of the nose halve and assembled them. I plan to sand it completely smooth, but before that I want to take measurements for a complete masking set for all the windows, cut on a Silhouette cutter. After that I will make a smooth vacform copy, using the club vacforming machine. With the masking set I will the recreate the frames. To complicate things futher, I seem to remember that the fit of the nose cone against the fuselage is also problematic, so the vacform master might need some modifications too.

 

yak28-25.jpg

 

As you can see, a silly amount of work..

 

Rob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Rob de Bie said:

I'm also slowly building this difficult model. To fix the nacelle problem, I installed K&S brass tube at either end, that worked really well.

 

yak28-09.jpg

 

I'm now working on all those small inlets on the nacelles.

 

yak28-22.jpg

 

For the nose cone I'm planning to do the following. I've cast resin copies of the nose halve and assembled them. I plan to sand it completely smooth, but before that I want to take measurements for a complete masking set for all the windows, cut on a Silhouette cutter. After that I will make a smooth vacform copy, using the club vacforming machine. With the masking set I will the recreate the frames. To complicate things futher, I seem to remember that the fit of the nose cone against the fuselage is also problematic, so the vacform master might need some modifications too.

 

yak28-25.jpg

 

As you can see, a silly amount of work..

 

Rob

 

 

My my.......lol.......phew.......this butt-fits wonky on the fuselage. Be warned. I'd like to see the end result.

 

This might just solve the nose glass house drama on this miserable kit, if you successfully manage this hack.

 

This Russian site has a couple built up for reference. Both not exactly R's.....but hey:

 

https://karopka.ru/community/user/13501/?MODEL=261190

https://karopka.ru/community/user/19124/?MODEL=394774

 

My inspiration:

https://vaul.ru/o-sajte/novosti/45-samoljoty/778-samoljot-yak-28

 

The 2 tone Fs34079/ Tan versions look fantastic! Very unique and beats all other R camou scheme's, IMO. Some great detail shots there too.

 

Edited by lulldapull

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 hours ago, lulldapull said:

My my.......lol.......phew.......this butt-fits wonky on the fuselage. Be warned. I'd like to see the end result.

 

This might just solve the nose glass house drama on this miserable kit, if you successfully manage this hack.

 

This Russian site has a couple built up for reference. Both not exactly R's.....but hey:

 

https://karopka.ru/community/user/13501/?MODEL=261190

https://karopka.ru/community/user/19124/?MODEL=394774

 

My inspiration:

https://vaul.ru/o-sajte/novosti/45-samoljoty/778-samoljot-yak-28

 

The 2 tone Fs34079/ Tan versions look fantastic! Very unique and beats all other R camou scheme's, IMO. Some great detail shots there too.

 

 

I'm working on and off on this model, gathering strength and courage in the off days 🙂 so it might take a while before I have a vacform part.

 

Like you I'm planning a two-tone brown scheme for my model. But I'm talking years ahead of time now 😟

 

Rob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great job Rob.

 

I see you haven't give up on yours...  It's been years since I gave up on mine, a Yak-28L.  And that's because on the L, the seam can be hidden with paint!

 

those scoops look great!  I would sure buy some from you if you decide to sell.

 

Keep up the great work.

 

Ernie A.

 

a7IV8sE.jpg

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, modelmax said:

Great job Rob.

 

I see you haven't give up on yours...  It's been years since I gave up on mine, a Yak-28L.  And that's because on the L, the seam can be hidden with paint!

 

those scoops look great!  I would sure buy some from you if you decide to sell.

 

I'm sloooowly gearing up for resin reproduction of the inlets. You need no less than 10 of the type shown below for one model. But there are more types on the nacelle, and I haven't started building those.

 

yak28-23.jpg

 

The missing inlets look a bit like the smaller ones of my U-2 inlet set (shown below), so I'm confident that I can make them.

 

u2-46.jpg

 

Rob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×