Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Any of you guys have experience vacuforming?

I need hints and tips plus I have some questions to ask.

I just got a Micromark Vacuforming machine at a great deal. I would like to make some clear canopies/windshield copies

but I want to make sure I don't ruin the masters.

Thanks in advance!

Walter

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, I have one set of clear windshields that I need to copy. (See below)

I read instructions on the vacuform machine and they are pretty straight forward.

Set the master down, use a clear sheet of plastic, warm it up and lower it into the master.

I am afraid the hot clear plastic will damage the master.

Do I need to reverse engineer and make a wood master?

IMG_0404.jpg.5ddbe44b7db37572f588afa9bcea5885.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

I too would be reluctant to vacuform over that.

 

I would reverse engineer that using plaster. If you have access to some sort of rubber molding material that would work also.

 

Coat the master with some sort of separating medium...cooking spray, vegetable oil, vaseline etc. Then mix up the plaster/water to a flowing consistency. Pour it over the outside of the master. You'll most likely need some sort of perimeter wall to contain the mix.Tap it up and down on a tabletop to eliminate bubbles. Be aware that plaster will create heat as it sets, so you may have  to watch that and possibly have to keep it cool after the initial set.

 

After it sets separate it from the master. Then coat the inside (of the plaster mold) with separating medium, and pour the plaster mix into the "mold" to create your final plaster master.

 

Take your time with this...don't be in a hurry to separate things. Give the plaster mixes plenty of time to set.

 

HTH Bob

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you are on friendly terms with your dentist he might be able to provide you with some dental "stone". It is a type of plaster but modified to give a harder, smoother surface. Dental labs have tons of this :)

 

If your stone master has any bubbles, voids etc., you can mix up a bit of plaster/stone to a somewhat loose consistency and patch the areas.

 

Let us all know how this works out.

 

Bob

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just to add....when you do the second pour make sure that ALL the surfaces of the negative mold are fully lubricated, not just the internal portion area with the windscreens. Stone/plaster will stick to stone/plaster!

 

How large is the part you are working with?

 

Bob

Link to post
Share on other sites

I would have written exactly what Bob wrote. 

 

I once tried to replicate a MPM XP-55 Canopy - it did work.  But instead of creating a new postive master as described above, I made only a negative mould of the outside, drilled holes in the deepest areas of the mold and vacuformed with the negative mold.

 

cheers

Thorsten

Link to post
Share on other sites

Upon further reflection :)

 

It would probably be easier to just pour the plaster/stone INTO your windscreen. This would give you the positive master without so much trouble and might actually be more accurate.

 

Hope you read this in time!!

 

Bob

Link to post
Share on other sites
14 minutes ago, Thorsten Wieking said:

I would have written exactly what Bob wrote. 

 

I once tried to replicate a MPM XP-55 Canopy - it did work.  But instead of creating a new postive master as described above, I made only a negative mould of the outside, drilled holes in the deepest areas of the mold and vacuformed with the negative mold.

 

cheers

Thorsten

A negative mold will produce better detail, but it is trickier. I believe there was at least one vac manufacturer that used negative molds; I recall hearing somebody rave about the fine details they were able to achieve.

 

Did the vacuum holes leave any distinguishing marks on the molded plastic? I suppose careful placement of the holes would enable any artifacts to be successfully managed.

 

I'm interested in seeing how this turns out. I've seen that device on Micro Mark, but I didn't think my potential use justified the costs...

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys,

I am going to give it a try.

I'll post the results.

I did not think I needed a vacuform machine either, but my friend bought it, he did not like it and I got it for

$40 and a six pack!

Well actually, 3 pack, I drank the other ones 

Link to post
Share on other sites
37 minutes ago, TheRealMrEd said:

Yep! I recommend the Durham's!  JackMan, that was probably my P2V-3 Neptune build that you saw...

 

Ed

 

Hi Ed!  That was an awesome build, I must say.  :worship:

 

By the way, I recall that your Durham's master was very shiny before you used it for vacuforming.  Could I ask how you managed to get it to be so smooth? Also, what did you use to fill in the small potholes of the Durham's master?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi, JackMan,

 

I used a couple of layers of Future floor wax, what ever it's called now.  And for filler, these days I mostly use Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty, found at auto parts stores in the US.  Here's another example.  When I bought the conversion set for the Meng F-102 to turn it into a TF-102A, I just knew the canopy was going to give me trouble.  But, it was just a hurry up, just in case kind of thing, so I didn't take much time with it.  Sure enough, I screwed up the canopy, but one day I'll use my still-to-be-cleaned-up version to complete the build, (I hope!)

 

2v2E7AKLGxfzdhW.jpg

 

Ed

 

 

Edited by TheRealMrEd
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...