waltmert Posted April 7, 2019 Share Posted April 7, 2019 Any of you guys have experience vacuforming? I need hints and tips plus I have some questions to ask. I just got a Micromark Vacuforming machine at a great deal. I would like to make some clear canopies/windshield copies but I want to make sure I don't ruin the masters. Thanks in advance! Walter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Thorsten Wieking Posted April 8, 2019 Share Posted April 8, 2019 How or what would you use as masters? Regards Thorsten Quote Link to post Share on other sites
waltmert Posted April 8, 2019 Author Share Posted April 8, 2019 Well, I have one set of clear windshields that I need to copy. (See below) I read instructions on the vacuform machine and they are pretty straight forward. Set the master down, use a clear sheet of plastic, warm it up and lower it into the master. I am afraid the hot clear plastic will damage the master. Do I need to reverse engineer and make a wood master? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Beary Posted April 8, 2019 Share Posted April 8, 2019 I too would be reluctant to vacuform over that. I would reverse engineer that using plaster. If you have access to some sort of rubber molding material that would work also. Coat the master with some sort of separating medium...cooking spray, vegetable oil, vaseline etc. Then mix up the plaster/water to a flowing consistency. Pour it over the outside of the master. You'll most likely need some sort of perimeter wall to contain the mix.Tap it up and down on a tabletop to eliminate bubbles. Be aware that plaster will create heat as it sets, so you may have to watch that and possibly have to keep it cool after the initial set. After it sets separate it from the master. Then coat the inside (of the plaster mold) with separating medium, and pour the plaster mix into the "mold" to create your final plaster master. Take your time with this...don't be in a hurry to separate things. Give the plaster mixes plenty of time to set. HTH Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
waltmert Posted April 8, 2019 Author Share Posted April 8, 2019 That sounds like a plan. I am going to start on that and see how it come out. Thanks a lot! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Beary Posted April 8, 2019 Share Posted April 8, 2019 If you are on friendly terms with your dentist he might be able to provide you with some dental "stone". It is a type of plaster but modified to give a harder, smoother surface. Dental labs have tons of this :) If your stone master has any bubbles, voids etc., you can mix up a bit of plaster/stone to a somewhat loose consistency and patch the areas. Let us all know how this works out. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Beary Posted April 8, 2019 Share Posted April 8, 2019 Just to add....when you do the second pour make sure that ALL the surfaces of the negative mold are fully lubricated, not just the internal portion area with the windscreens. Stone/plaster will stick to stone/plaster! How large is the part you are working with? Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Thorsten Wieking Posted April 8, 2019 Share Posted April 8, 2019 I would have written exactly what Bob wrote. I once tried to replicate a MPM XP-55 Canopy - it did work. But instead of creating a new postive master as described above, I made only a negative mould of the outside, drilled holes in the deepest areas of the mold and vacuformed with the negative mold. cheers Thorsten Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Beary Posted April 8, 2019 Share Posted April 8, 2019 Upon further reflection :) It would probably be easier to just pour the plaster/stone INTO your windscreen. This would give you the positive master without so much trouble and might actually be more accurate. Hope you read this in time!! Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted April 8, 2019 Share Posted April 8, 2019 14 minutes ago, Thorsten Wieking said: I would have written exactly what Bob wrote. I once tried to replicate a MPM XP-55 Canopy - it did work. But instead of creating a new postive master as described above, I made only a negative mould of the outside, drilled holes in the deepest areas of the mold and vacuformed with the negative mold. cheers Thorsten A negative mold will produce better detail, but it is trickier. I believe there was at least one vac manufacturer that used negative molds; I recall hearing somebody rave about the fine details they were able to achieve. Did the vacuum holes leave any distinguishing marks on the molded plastic? I suppose careful placement of the holes would enable any artifacts to be successfully managed. I'm interested in seeing how this turns out. I've seen that device on Micro Mark, but I didn't think my potential use justified the costs... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
waltmert Posted April 8, 2019 Author Share Posted April 8, 2019 Thanks guys, I am going to give it a try. I'll post the results. I did not think I needed a vacuform machine either, but my friend bought it, he did not like it and I got it for $40 and a six pack! Well actually, 3 pack, I drank the other ones Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted April 8, 2019 Share Posted April 8, 2019 I would spring for $40 and a six pack. Even better that you got to enjoy some of that six pack! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JackMan Posted April 9, 2019 Share Posted April 9, 2019 Instead of plaster, I would recommend "Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty" available on Ebay. http://www.waterputty.com/ http://www.waterputty.com/casting.html I believe some chaps over at Britmodelers have used it before. I recall seeing someone vacuforming a P2V Neptune canopy with this stuff. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheRealMrEd Posted April 12, 2019 Share Posted April 12, 2019 Yep! I recommend the Durham's! JackMan, that was probably my P2V-3 Neptune build that you saw... Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JackMan Posted April 12, 2019 Share Posted April 12, 2019 37 minutes ago, TheRealMrEd said: Yep! I recommend the Durham's! JackMan, that was probably my P2V-3 Neptune build that you saw... Ed Hi Ed! That was an awesome build, I must say. By the way, I recall that your Durham's master was very shiny before you used it for vacuforming. Could I ask how you managed to get it to be so smooth? Also, what did you use to fill in the small potholes of the Durham's master? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheRealMrEd Posted April 12, 2019 Share Posted April 12, 2019 (edited) Hi, JackMan, I used a couple of layers of Future floor wax, what ever it's called now. And for filler, these days I mostly use Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty, found at auto parts stores in the US. Here's another example. When I bought the conversion set for the Meng F-102 to turn it into a TF-102A, I just knew the canopy was going to give me trouble. But, it was just a hurry up, just in case kind of thing, so I didn't take much time with it. Sure enough, I screwed up the canopy, but one day I'll use my still-to-be-cleaned-up version to complete the build, (I hope!) Ed Edited April 12, 2019 by TheRealMrEd Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JackMan Posted April 13, 2019 Share Posted April 13, 2019 Awesome! Thank you, sir And good luck with your TF-102. If it's anything like your Neptune, it'll be a great one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DrGlueblob Posted May 1, 2019 Share Posted May 1, 2019 Durham's can be tricky stuff. Mix it till it's just thicker than pancake batter. I've used polymer clay as positive mold material with good success too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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