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Pledge "Revive It" floor gloss...Current incarnation of Future?


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Same “ingredients” in the same order as my bottle of Pledge Floor Care Finish.  The bottle of Pledge Floor Care Finish matched precisely my previous bottle of Future. 

Edited by jester292
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Are there any good sites that can ship it internationally? I looked into it a few months back and didnt have much luck finding anything online that would ship it for a decent shipping price.

 

My only bottle which i had for a very long time has gone bad (basically doesnt dry) and i havent found anything locally at all.

Edited by Berkut
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I was going to make a post about Future and then I came across this. Is clear coating with Future/Pledge still a thing? If so do you guys do it before decals/weathering or after or both? I have read where people use a clear before decals and then Future as a final coat and there are people that are straying from Future altogether.  Others swear by it. Opinions?

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4 hours ago, Zombiel said:

I was going to make a post about Future and then I came across this. Is clear coating with Future/Pledge still a thing? If so do you guys do it before decals/weathering or after or both? I have read where people use a clear before decals and then Future as a final coat and there are people that are straying from Future altogether.  Others swear by it. Opinions?

 

It can be a very polarizing topic. I never had good luck with future.   Lately I work to apply paint as smoothly as possible and apply decals directly to the paint.  Before weathering I use aquagloss from alclad for a protective layer.   Some people achieve great results with future, I just never could. 

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I've had mixed luck with it myself. As something to dip canopies/windows in, it works pretty well. As an over-all gloss coat, it's been hit and miss for me. Sometimes I can get a pretty good, even coat, other times (seeming to do the exact same process as the last time) it will "bead up" and not be smooth. So, I don't know about it. I have not really found anything to replace it with, so I continue to use it, but it isn't a be all to end all like some people think it is. 

 

Aaron 

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Good to know, guys. I was going to use it as a final finish on my black MIG 28 because I've heard it's gloss but not so gloss. I think I may try a satin clear instead since I have no experience with it yet.

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I don't trust Future/Pledge/et al as a top coat.

 

I'll use it to make a gloss surface for decals and weathering, but not as a final finish. My issue is longevity. How will it oxidize over time? Will it stay or will it open up?

I feel more comfortable using a gloss coat created for models by a reputable brand if I were to use a gloss coat for a final finish.

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1 hour ago, dangerdan87 said:

I don't trust Future/Pledge/et al as a top coat.

 

I'll use it to make a gloss surface for decals and weathering, but not as a final finish. My issue is longevity. How will it oxidize over time? Will it stay or will it open up?

I feel more comfortable using a gloss coat created for models by a reputable brand if I were to use a gloss coat for a final finish.

 

Curious to know, chemically, how Future would oxidize. Can you explain? I’m going way back here to my college days, but I don’t think anything in Future would react to exchange electrons (either giving away exothermically or accepting from another element) and go through any oxidization or redox reaction. 

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3 minutes ago, jester292 said:

 

Curious to know, chemically, how Future would oxidize. Can you explain? I’m going way back here to my college days, but I don’t think anything in Future would react to exchange electrons (either giving away exothermically or accepting from another element) and go through any oxidization or redox reaction. 

 

What I meant by how it could break down over time

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5 minutes ago, dangerdan87 said:

 

What I meant by how it could break down over time

 

Normal wear and tear, but in my experience tougher than paint (won’t chip or peel), and it’s designed to be walked on (for floor application).  It may not be designed for model making or airbrushing but if you can pin down the variables (pressure, thin coats, etc) it sure works rather nicely. The hard part can be getting consistent results. But it works and sprays beautifully. Seeing as most military aircraft don’t have a high gloss finish, it’s unlikely that Future is your final coat of paint anyway. 

 

Edit: Not to mention that Future is “self leveling.”  That’s due to the electronegativity of the ammonia I believe. 

Edited by jester292
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  • 7 months later...
On 4/26/2019 at 9:27 AM, dangerdan87 said:

My issue is longevity. How will it oxidize over time? Will it stay or will it open up?

Or will it turn yellow in 8 years?
 

Going by copyright date on label I have a possibly 8 year old only partly used bottle which got forgotten about in the back of the pantry and it has visibly yellowed.

 

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Future, or whatever its called at this moment, will yellow in the bottle when exposed to light. All bottles I have bought and left where they are exposed to light, including fluorescent, have yellowed. I have a wide mouth jar of future I use for canopy dipping. I wrapped in tightly with aluminum foil and it has not yellowed over the past few years. I don't use Future for much other than canopy dipping and I have been looking at other products to replace it in that area. I still use it to deal with some decals and to glue PE parts.

Once it has been sprayed I have never seen any yellowing.

Edited by Mstor
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20 hours ago, southwestforests said:

Then it is a mystery: there is no sunlight reaching inside my apartment's pantry, so what caused the 2011 bottle to yellow?

It wasn't yellow when i bought it, or I wouldn't have bought it

 

Well, bugger me then. I thought I had it figured out. Back to the drawing board. Of course, these days I only use Future for windshield/canopy dipping and PE gluing mostly. Even looking at other products for the canopy dipping. Seems almost all clear coats have some problem with yellowing. Testors Dullcoat will yellow in the bottle over time, but I have never seen that effect the stuff when sprayed on a kit. Tamiya's X22 will yellow if you add any thinned product back into the bottle (messed up a few bottle before someone pointed that one out). Tamiya's X22 is my go to clear gloss and Dullcoat my go to flat coat.

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5 hours ago, Mstor said:

Tamiya's X22 is my go to clear gloss

I got started using it on model trains in the mid 1980s when it became available where I lived at the time and have long been pleased and impressed with it.

My scale modeling at the time was armor, and tanks don't have much need for gloss!

Especially liked using it on window transparencies on trains because it changed the way the clear plastic reflected light and it looked much more like glass.
The way life has gone I no longer have those trains, so assessment of whether it has yellowed here multiple decades later is not possible.

 

A bit of a tangent;

While talking Tamiya products, tonight is the first time I have used any of their plastic cements.
Started on one of this, "Pegasus Hobbies' theoretical Moonlander spacecraft. Designed in 1952 by Wernher von Braun" which is molded in ABS plastic instead of styrene.


So, am following the glue advice from here, https://youtu.be/ecXYRGDicMg "Doctor Faust's Painting Clinic, Building Pegasus' Von Braun Moonlander Part 1, Sep 18, 2017"
And at some point in the painting process clear gloss will be called for as surface prep for decals & because I want it to look new and shiny, straight off space station showroom floor.

Which brings this back to clear coats...

Which one to use ...?

 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, southwestforests said:

Which brings this back to clear coats...

Which one to use ...?

 

Tamiya X22, thinned 50/50 (or a little more) with Mr Leveling Thinner. Star with a light coat and build up to a thin wet coat. As soon as dry, hit it with a flash coat of Mr Leveling thinner and you will have a smooth shiny surface that is resistant to enamel and oil paints, so is great when it comes to using washes.

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18 hours ago, Mstor said:

50/50 (or a little more)

I've always used Tamiya's own X20A thinner, haven't yet acquired the Mr Levelling thinner.

Health matters have me doing so little airbrushing any more that I've simply not made the effort to seek it.

Through the decades I have occasionally tried a couple other things for thinning it but none work for me as well as Tamiya's own stuff.
Have found that "or a little more" you mentioned to be pretty much the norm, maybe even 60/40 thinner/gloss.

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