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niart17

Darth Vader 3D Printed Statue

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Posted (edited)

Hey guys. Just thought I'd share this model I recently downloaded and printed from an incredible 3D artist on Malix3design that you might be interested in printing out as well. Here is a link to this model on his site.

https://www.malix3design.com/2018/07/dark-lord-3d-model-for-3d-printing.html

 

I printed this out in various resins and PLA for the legs since they wouldn't fit on my resin printer. I still have a few details like the belt pack and light saber and his large cape. Then I'll start priming and painting. I'm not sure if this particular design is based on a cartoon - comic book or book version or if it's just his interpretation but I really am digging the look he gave it. Stay tuned, I'll try to get some more of him done when I get a chance.

 

567109639_vadersmall.jpg.3088e0bb37c58b677b3c7c7b784da344.jpg

 

Edited by niart17

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Wow nice. Is it me or does his helmet look small?

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Which resins are you using?  How do they compare to the green (cure times, detail, etc)

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The 2 arms, the head and the boots are all printed in the Anycubic green resin.  The upper torso is printed in Anycubic grey with the settings of a .02 layer, normal exposure time of 14 seconds, off time of 1 second. 90 second bottom layer with 8 bottom layers. I prefer the look of the grey as details seem to be a little crisper. But I will say it's much harder to get consistent results with it and the longer print times makes me not want to use it often. I haven't tried any other brands of resin yet but will venture out one day. I'd love to find a really good grey resin since it's a good color to see detail with.

the legs and skirt are printed on the Creality Ender 3 in white PLA at extra fine settings and no supports.

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Interesting.  I've read a few comments saying the grey is tricky, which is weird, since their other opaques don't seem to be anywhere near as problematic - I've almost finished a litre of blue, and I've just been using the same settings as I did with clear green; I don't think I've had a single failed print.  With this bottle almost finished though, I'm on the lookout for alternatives.

 

Oh, and one thing to note with your settings...  you should change the off time to 6.5 seconds.  That's the actual minimum time it takes to raise and lower the build platform - even with it set at 1 second by default, it still takes 6.5 seconds to raise and lower - so using that value won't change your actual print time at all, but it will make the estimated print time in the slicer more accurate.

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Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, niart17 said:

The 2 arms, the head and the boots are all printed in the Anycubic green resin.  The upper torso is printed in Anycubic grey with the settings of a .02 layer, normal exposure time of 14 seconds, off time of 1 second. 90 second bottom layer with 8 bottom layers. I prefer the look of the grey as details seem to be a little crisper. But I will say it's much harder to get consistent results with it and the longer print times makes me not want to use it often. I haven't tried any other brands of resin yet but will venture out one day. I'd love to find a really good grey resin since it's a good color to see detail with.

the legs and skirt are printed on the Creality Ender 3 in white PLA at extra fine settings and no supports.

 

14 seconds for .02?

It's overexposed.

I use 12 seconds for 0.04.

With crisp details.

 

Did you make some exposure tests or you've just follow charts?

 

5 hours ago, MoFo said:

Interesting.  I've read a few comments saying the grey is tricky, which is weird, since their other opaques don't seem to be anywhere near as problematic - I've almost finished a litre of blue, and I've just been using the same settings as I did with clear green; I don't think I've had a single failed print.  With this bottle almost finished though, I'm on the lookout for alternatives.

 

Oh, and one thing to note with your settings...  you should change the off time to 6.5 seconds.  That's the actual minimum time it takes to raise and lower the build platform - even with it set at 1 second by default, it still takes 6.5 seconds to raise and lower - so using that value won't change your actual print time at all, but it will make the estimated print time in the slicer more accurate.

 

AC grey is easy, IMO.

I think most problems people have, aren't relative to the resin itself but 1/ the (bad) levelling and 2/ lack of or wrong supports.

 

And yes, it's pointless to change the off-time to 6.5 seconds or 1.

Because the photon is programmed to have a off-time of 6.5s minimum.

So if you put 1 second in the slicer OT setting, the printer will use a OT of 6.5.

And if you put 6.5 second in the slicer OT setting, the printer will use a OT of 6.5 too. 

Edited by shion

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On ‎5‎/‎6‎/‎2019 at 6:03 AM, shion said:

 

And yes, it's pointless to change the off-time to 6.5 seconds or 1.

Because the photon is programmed to have a off-time of 6.5s minimum.

So if you put 1 second in the slicer OT setting, the printer will use a OT of 6.5.

And if you put 6.5 second in the slicer OT setting, the printer will use a OT of 6.5 too. 

I think what MoFo is saying is that if you want the estimated time that the slicer program gives you to be more accurate and get you a closer to real time for printing, setting it to 6.5 for anything that you THINK is below that will yield more accurate estimates. That makes sense. Thanks for that.

 

As for the other settings, they were a combination of starting with what the chart said and then tweaking just a little til it came out pretty good. I'll try your recommendations on the next print to see if it renders better results.

 

Thanks again.

Bill

 

p.s., this is exactly the reason why I think the 3D printing thread might be helpful on this site...somewhere.

 

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1 hour ago, niart17 said:

 if you want the estimated time that the slicer program gives you to be more accurate and get you a closer to real time for printing, setting it to 6.5 for anything that you THINK is below that will yield more accurate estimates.

 

Yup.

If you set it to 1s, the printer will take 6.5s.  But the time in your slicer will be wrong.

If you set it to 6.5s, the printer will take 6.5s.  But the print time in your slicer will be pretty much exactly right.  Which is handy for knowing how long you have left in your print.

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Posted (edited)

Exemples with AC Grey printed made last week.

 

AC Grey.

LT: 40 microns.

ET: 12s

BET: 90s 

Print time: 4H and something.

 

Files inspected, corrected and hollowed with MeshMixer.

Supported and sliced with ChituBox.

 

Yeah, my IPA was pretty saturated, I will change it next time.

 

 

With bare eyes, print lines aren't discernable.

Neither with desk magnifier (12X).

Only lines discernable are some voxels.

Heads are 30mm-high.

 

IMG_5550reduced size.jpg

Edited by shion

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Posted (edited)

I notice your AC grey is significantly lighter in color than what I have. I wonder if the batches have drastic property changes. Those heads look great.

 

Speaking of setting, I have a grouping of small parts that I'm not sure of the best way to arrange them on the build plate. I'll try to post up an image of the .stl files and see if you guys could give me some orientation settings. That seems to be my biggest obstacle in visualizing what angle and such a part should print. I don't seem to have a firm grasp of the nuance between orienting for gravity and undercuts vs orienting for suction alleviation.

 

Bill

Edited by niart17

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Posted (edited)

AC Grey seems to be AC Clear with grey pigments.

It seems these grey pigments don't interfere a lot with the printing properties.

 

In the beginning, I used to stir resin in the vat before printing.

I don't stir anymore and it still works.

Seems AC doesn't care much about the grey color, so yes, some AC greys are darker.

 

AC grey is great for prototyping.

But I can barely stand the smell, it gives me strong headaches.

I did some mods to extract fumes and smell. 

It's safer and quieter.

 

But after this bottle, I will try another greys.

With my consumption, it's not a big problem to try better quality resins, like the Harz Lab ones.

Edited by shion

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Posted (edited)

Actually made a little progress on this guy. For a brief moment I thought about running some LED's through it and lighting up his chest pack and having a lit light saber but knew if I went down that rabbit hole I'd be much more likely to not finish it ever. As it stands now, my completion/to build ratio ain't that great.

 

anyway, here he is with black primer and SOME of the black/grey black detail painting. I don't like the lighter tone on his boots so I'm going to make that a darker black. I will of course clear gloss coat his helmet but I don't know that much else is going to be real glossy. Since this isn't movie accurate to any Vader, I kind of like the fact it looks a little more functional and he seems like a younger more athletic Vader. Perhaps he relied more on physical prowess in his youth and less throwing things with his hand motions. Also, you'll notice his pinky finger on the raised right hand broke off and I can not for the life of me find it. That brings up a couple of possible solutions. I can either try to match the other gloved fingers by sculpting it with putty ORRRR I can make a mechanical looking finger and try to make the glove look torn a little. That would add a little story telling element to the figure in that perhaps his enemy actually landed a strike and made him made angry enough to use the force choke instead of having fun by light saber duel. So what do you guys like? Or I could leave it off but then it just looks wrong.

 

Vader Small Black.jpg

 

Comments, critiques a suggestions welcome.

 

Bill

 

P.s. as far as his head, I agree it looks a little small but not quite as bad as when it was white and the other parts were mixed colors. that along with the camera angle I think added to the slightly undersized appearance. Either way, I happy with the artist sculpting.

Edited by niart17

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