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Dealing with static electricity


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As the title suggests, how do you guys deal with static buildup?   Sometimes, especially after some sanding, it can get quite annoying... especially if I'm about to lay down some paint.   I try removing dust with my airbrush turned up, and a soft brush, but sometimes even that is not enough as it just ends up clinging to the opposite side of the model.  

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  • Agree, I've had the same problem.  Mostly I just have to put the model aside for a while for the static to discharge on it's own.  Usually a couple days.  I wanted to ask this question recently as well.  Wondered If there was a way to ground plastic models.

I wanted to look into one of these:

 

staticmaster_3inch_brushes823500.jpg

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There does come a point in assembly progress where doing so is not advisable, or even safely possible, but I'll often rinse the model parts under the kitchen sink faucet.

Something about that seems to knock down the static and delay its return for at least a few minutes.

Hmm, those brushes are something I didn't know about, will have to look them up.

Edited by southwestforests
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I'm guessing that's for vinyl records... but nope, while I did technically "live" in the 80s, I was too young, and living in communist Russia... so basically, I lived in the 1950s until 1991, when we moved to the states. 

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5 hours ago, Raptor01 said:

If you lived in the 70’s or 80’s you know what this is.  It works as good today as it did 40 years ago.  Still have all pieces and all still work!😄

 

 

I have the same setup, although the D3 liquid evaporated years ago.   Do you still have the smoked plastic cover?

 

The Staticmaster brushes mentioned above were popular in photographic darkrooms, used to remove dust from film negatives. Be aware those types of brushes have a few drawbacks - they tend to be expensive, they use a radioactive element to ionize the air, and that element loses its effectiveness over time. They can be replaced but the new elements can cost as much as a new brush. More info:

 

http://www.company7.com/staticmaster/products/staticmaster.html

 

The Zerostat generates an electrical pulse to ionize the air, no radioactive parts and never needs replacement elements. 

 

.

 

 

Edited by habu2
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Habu2 

Still have the complete set with smoked black cover, but the later D4 fluid.  Even have a large bottle of D4 fluid.

I have to laugh at 2nd hand records selling for $20.  I thought they were expensive at $5.00 new.  Still have over 300 LPs too.😂😂😂

 

John

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Recently read somewhere that washing with Ionized water can help.  Mostly used for anticipated health benefits.   If it's not expensive, perhaps worth a try?


I do like the look of that Tamiya brush though as well.

 

Edited by Jonathan S
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Meh, that sounds like woo to me.   I don't see how washing something with ionized water would have any affect on preventing the future accumulation of static electricity.  As far as the alleged health benefits of ionized water... ehh, I'll believe it when I see the evidence. 

 

 

I'm gonna give that Tamiya brush a whirl and see what happens.   I'm sure those staticmaster brushes work (come to think of it, we had these in my photography class some 13 years ago, so ya, they definitely work), but at $80 a pop, I think I'll pass. 

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There is a Zerostat 3 on Amazon, $71.00

My Discwasher 1980 version is still functioning 39 years later, price was much less back then.🤣

John

 

https://www.amazon.com/Milty-5036694022153-Zerostat-Anti-Static-Blue/dp/B0033SHDSS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=zerostat+3+anti-static+gun&qid=1559760865&s=gateway&sprefix=+zerostat&sr=8-2

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2 hours ago, BaconRaygun said:

Meh, that sounds like woo to me.   I don't see how washing something with ionized water would have any affect on preventing the future accumulation of static electricity.  As far as the alleged health benefits of ionized water... ehh, I'll believe it when I see the evidence.  

 

 

I'm gonna give that Tamiya brush a whirl and see what happens.   I'm sure those staticmaster brushes work (come to think of it, we had these in my photography class some 13 years ago, so ya, they definitely work), but at $80 a pop, I think I'll pass. 

 

I too am interested in the Tamiya brush,  but to say the ionized water is "woo" - not sure the meaning there, but consider that the whole point is to ionize the plastic, both the brush and water can both work the same and both seem to be "woo."  So try not to be closed minded. :-)

 

I read that about the ionized water on a vinyl record forum.

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I'm not being closed minded, Jonathan S, I'm simply taking basic physics and chemistry into account.  

 

Unless it's pure, distilled water... then it is already "ionized," simply because there are dissolved minerals (ions) within that water already.  Tap water = ionized water.  So, technically, I've been washing my sprues in ionized water this whole time.  I can even tell you, with some degree of certainty, which ions are present in the tap water here on Long Island.  Sodium, magnesium, calcium, copper, tin, silver, and iron... and probably many others, but calcium and magnesium being the dominant two. 

 

What is the mechanism under which an "ionized water wash" would prevent static buildup?  I cant think of one.   

 

Anti-static chemical treatments work by creating a thin, conductive film on the surface of whatever it being treated.  That's one of the methods the ZEROSTAT device uses to achieve its goal.  That liquid creates a slightly conductive film, aiding in the dissipation of static electricity.  Eventually, it wears off... and you re-apply.   I suppose the brushes and other stuff it comes with are probably meant for application, dust removal, and removal of(but not prevention of) a static charge. 

 

Lastly, the Hi-Fi audio field is not immune to snake oil... in fact, it's quite prevalent in the Hi-Fi audio scene... so I would personally attempt to independently verify any claims made on a vinyl/Hi-Fi/audiophile forum.   Monstar Cable's entire business model revolves around selling people magic-silver-bullet-cure items based on anecdotal testimonials with zero actual science.   The cables are constructed well, though, (I do own a bunch) so I'll give them that. 

 

I'll gladly open my mind to these "ionized water" claims, if somebody also provides good, credible, scientific, peer-reviewed sources to back up the claims.  Until then, the whole idea is relegated to the woo section of my mind. 

 

 

And I apologize if this comes off as being a bit abrasive.  My intentions are not to offend... it's just that throughout my life, I've been bombarded with so much unsubstantiated nonsense that I just cant take it anymore.  If I keep my mount (err, fingers) shut, then I am effectively enabling the snake oil salesmen, be it directly or indirectly.  So... generally, I don't go around trying to debunk things such as this, however, when they are presented to me as a solution, I do not hesitate to point out the woo to the best of my abilities.  

 

... but I do appreciate the input, Jonathan.  

 

Edited by BaconRaygun
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19 hours ago, Jonathan S said:

 

I too am interested in the Tamiya brush,  but to say the ionized water is "woo" - not sure the meaning there, but consider that the whole point is to ionize the plastic, both the brush and water can both work the same and both seem to be "woo." 

 

Umm, that’s not how it works. 

 

You are not “ionizing the plastic”. You are manipulating the electrostatic charge on the surface of the plastic. 

 

The radioactive emissions from an electrostatic brush bond and debond electrons in the air around the brush at the molecular level.  

 

The high voltage created by piezoelectric crystals in an anti-static “gun”  bond and debond electrons in the air around the needle in the “barrel” of the “gun” at the molecular level. 

 

.

 

Edited by habu2
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Prior to the computer ruining the sign industry I regularly painted immense sheets of acrylic and polycarbonate. We would rinse with cold water and use a mix of water and Iso/alcohol to remove static.

Wiping or blowing the plastic with air was frowned upon as any friction recreated the static.

I rinse my models in cold water and refrain from wiping afterward. Any wiping or rubbing will reinstall the static.

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16 hours ago, BaconRaygun said:

And I apologize if this comes off as being a bit abrasive.  My intentions are not to offend... it's just that throughout my life, I've been bombarded with so much unsubstantiated nonsense that I just cant take it anymore.  If I keep my mount (err, fingers) shut, then I am effectively enabling the snake oil salesmen, be it directly or indirectly.  So... generally, I don't go around trying to debunk things such as this, however, when they are presented to me as a solution, I do not hesitate to point out the woo to the best of my abilities.  

 

... but I do appreciate the input, Jonathan.  

 

 

No offense taken.  You and I have talked on a few threads, and appreciate your input.  Just thought strange as you seemed quick to dismiss, clearly I was wrong.  I'm not completely sold on the ionized water thing either, but thought it worth mentioning in case any one has tried this with success and could give input.

 

The Tamiya brush appears to be the most cost effective brush on anti-static I've seen.

Edited by Jonathan S
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We have or can have massive problems with static at work, some of the static shocks can quite easily bring a man to his knees.

 

A humidifier can help, the more humidity in the air the less the static build up will be.

You have to ground the object and keep air and dust in the air from touching it, as that is how it is generated.

 

The ionised water in itself does nothing, its a device that allows the static to reach ground.

 

The furnishings in your house, carpets etc can help create static, air moving over it creates static, the air needs to be humid.

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Which product? Endust canned air does nothing for static... I'm an IT guy, so I've had my fair share of experience with canned air over the past 15 years or so. 

 

 

@ElectroSoldier  

 

I cant do the humidity thing.  I. Hate. Humidity.  I think the brushes are probably more along the lines of something that makes sense for me... as I don't need to wait for the model to air dry after washing with water (which, of course, works, but isn't the answer here).   

 

My biggest issue with static is while I'm in the process of painting... primarily, removing stubborn dust particles that tend to just re-locate to some other part of the model.    

 

I've also noticed some interesting things happening when I'm spraying a model that's holding a charge, especially when spraying metallic paints.   I cant think of an explanation better than powder coating.   When the model is charged, and I blip the trigger on my airbrush, I get basically a powder coating of dry paint all over the model.  Not really a big deal as it comes right off, but it certainly is a great way to demonstrate how "powder coating" works.   

Edited by BaconRaygun
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On 6/9/2019 at 7:28 PM, ElectroSoldier said:

The ionised water in itself does nothing, its a device that allows the static to reach ground.

 

This makes sense as it is essentially a liquid ground strap. Not so different than standing barefoot in a puddle of water while holding a hair dryer....  😮

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