Jump to content
ARC Discussion Forums
  • advertisement_alt
  • advertisement_alt
  • advertisement_alt
Sign in to follow this  
Mstor

New exhausts for 1/48 F-111s

Recommended Posts

4 hours ago, mrvark said:

 

Well, that's kind of a glass half empty view. I think it will be possible (with some care) to modify the parts.

Here is the F-model part:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/p4rtroiumcsymw4/190817 ResKit RSU48-0026 ACA F-111F Exhaust Petals.jpg?dl=0

Here is the part for everyone else:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xerq0533b2yfn46/190817 ResKit RSU48-0025 ACA F-111ACDEG Exhaust Petals.jpg?dl=0

 

Thanks for posting these images, all is clear now; My Res-Kit F-111 exhausts should arrive very soon !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, mrvark said:

That's a great shot! ResKit DOES include the actuator rods on the PE fret--they're still pretty tiny and fiddly, but they are there. you can kind see them in this picture at the bottom of the fret:

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/m5mz96fu4tobqw2/190817 ResKit RSU48-0025 ACA F-111ACDEG Exhaust Nozzles.jpg?dl=0

 

 

Wow, they are tiny and fiddly, but at least they're included. So, I guess that gives one somewhere to start. I'll have to see for myself once I can get a set. Thanks Jim!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What I've learned so far (Part 1):

 

ResKit from the Ukraine (www.reskit.com.ua& www.fb.com/reskit.ukraine) has released a series of F-111 Exhaust Nozzle Kits:

 

RSU48-0024 1:48 HB F-111A/B/C/D/E/G & FB/EF

RSU48-0025 1:48 ACA F-111A/B/C/D/E/G & FB/EF

RSU48-0026 1:48 ACA F-111F

RSU72-0028 1:72 HAS F-111A/B/C/D/E/G & FB/EF

RSU72-0029 1:72 HAS F-111F

 

The 1/48 sets cost $25; the 1/72 sets $18. Hobby Boss didn’t release an F-111F, hence no HB F nozzles. I already checked to see if the 1/72 nozzles can be used with the Monogram EF-111A kit, but they won’t—the nozzle diameters are too different.

 

I received one each of the above sets and have removed them from their casting blocks. As you can see from the accompanying pictures, they are extraordinarily detailed. (The “assembled” nozzles are dry fitted only.) For comparison, here's a pic showing the previous (for the most part pre-CAD) attempts to model 1/48 F-111 exhaust nozzles:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9azmwdljleu7n3c/130802 Previous F-111 Nozzle Sets.jpg?dl=0

 

ResKit F-111ACDEG FB & EF Nozzles

https://www.dropbox.com/s/m5mz96fu4tobqw2/190817 ResKit RSU48-0025 ACA F-111ACDEG Exhaust Nozzles.jpg?dl=0

ResKit F-111F Nozzles

https://www.dropbox.com/s/o1kqvaan176vdfz/190817 ResKit RSU48-0026 ACA F-111F Exhaust Nozzles.jpg?dl=0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

What Ive learned so far (Part 2)

The F-111’s TF30 engines are similar to those used by the F-14A and when the jet is shut down, one set of nozzle petals close down while the other remains open. This option is not included—my guess is that it would be tricky to cast. However, the determined modeler may be able to cut between the petals and bend them down. I haven’t tried this—yet!

 

ResKit F-111ACDEG FB & EF Petals

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xerq0533b2yfn46/190817 ResKit RSU48-0025 ACA F-111ACDEG Exhaust Petals.jpg?dl=0

Actuator rods are included as part of the PE fret, although the instructions on how to place them aren't very good. This pic may help:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/c1kt108vtlsi2pf/Actual F-111 Nozzles from rear.jpg?dl=0

ResKit F-111F Petals

https://www.dropbox.com/s/p4rtroiumcsymw4/190817 ResKit RSU48-0026 ACA F-111F Exhaust Petals.jpg?dl=0

One last pic of the real things:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/s3q2bdptl49yzj4/Actual F-111 Nozzles from side.jpg?dl=0

 

Removing the parts from their casting blocks was straight-forward for the most part. HOWEVER, two parts will present a real challenge. The large, gear-shaped flame holder and (on the “not F-model” sets only) the smaller flame holder can give you fits if not done carefully. What I STRONGLY recommend is DO NOT use a saw on these parts EVER!

 

For the large gear (flame-holder) part, use a coarse grit Dremel grinder to cut away the casting block from behind. When you get it down to a half millimeter or so, switch to a sanding stick to remove the remainder. The little gears are VERY fragile, ESPECIALLY in 1:72ndscale! Once you get the main casting block removed, you’ll notice the ‘gear teeth’ flare outwards in cross section. Using sandpaper now, carefully continue to sand the flared area (about 1mm) away until the cross section is rectangular. In 1:48 scale, I was able to use 60 grit to get it down to the last 0.5 mm before switching to finer grits to finish. With 1:72 scale, use finer grits.

For the smaller flame-holder part (only with the non-F-111F nozzles), once you get the casting block removed to where the inner openings are open, you’re still not finished. At this point, switch to a finer grit Dremel bit and sand at about a 45° angle. I found using the little lip on the part a useful guide to the correct angle. You’ll soon get enough of the resin removed to see where the outer openings are and can finish opening them with an X-acto knife.

 

One other minor thing to note. The two external parts of the nozzle are connected to each other with fairings. You can see from the photos, there are small holes in the base part fairings. As cast, there are tiny locating pins to go in those holes on the aft shroud part. You might be able to cut the shrouds free from their casting blocks, but I quickly gave up and just cut them free, pins and all—that’s the only way I can see to get a smooth surface to the part. I plan to insert wire pins in a couple of the holes and open up holes in the aft shrouds for alignment of the parts. This feature would have been great idea on an injection molded part, but a bridge to far in resin.

 

On the not F-model engines, small PE parts are provided that the instructions seem to indicate should be attached to each petal. If so, that would appear to be a mistake or my misinterpretation of the instructions. Actuator arms actually came out of the ‘fairings’ (I don’t know what the correct term is) and connected to one corner of each petal. It looks to me like one might want to drill holes in the aft shroud and insert wire pins to simulate this feature for the ‘closed’ nozzle. I doubt that it would be worth the trouble on the open ones. Here is a picture of what I’m referring to:

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/msye757c0pl8qd1/110804-017 FB-111A TF30 Iris closed.jpg?dl=0

Edited by mrvark
Updated information

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Jim, in the "What I've learned part 2", the pic you have labeled as the ACDEG FB & EF petals is the pic of the flame holders for the same set.

 

Thanks for assessment. Great info.

 

P.S. Could you brush some of the resin dust off the parts before taking the pics :thumbsup2:

Edited by Mstor

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Mstor said:

Jim, in the "What I've learned part 2", the pic you have labeled as the ACDEG FB & EF petals is the pic of the flame holders for the same set.

 

Thanks for assessment. Great info.

 

P.S. Could you brush some of the resin dust off the parts before taking the pics :thumbsup2:

Fixed.

 

Yeah, I should probably do that! 😁

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 8/21/2019 at 10:58 PM, mrvark said:

What Ive learned so far (Part 2)

The gear shaped flame holder has a keystone-shaped opening for the alignment tab, but it’s on the front of the part! To access it, it is necessary to open it up from behind. 

 

 

I'm just removing the casting blocks from my set and this part actually looks quite thick when compared to the 'instruction' sheet illustration.............. is it possible that ResKit intend us to sand down the part even more, until that keyed alignment hole opens up naturally from behind ?   There does appear to be a very slight ridge that might be intended as a guideline.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
29 minutes ago, Piker38 said:

 

 is it possible that ResKit intend us to sand down the part even more, until that keyed alignment hole opens up naturally from behind ?   

 

OK, so it is possible.................... how does this look ?

ResKit_thinned_8869.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 minutes ago, Piker38 said:

 

I'm just removing the casting blocks from my set and this part actually looks quite thick when compared to the 'instruction' sheet illustration.............. is it possible that ResKit intend us to sand down the part even more, until that keyed alignment hole opens up naturally from behind ?   There does appear to be a very slight ridge that might be intended as a guideline.

 

Great question. You may be (probably are)  right. HOWEVER, use EXTREME caution if you keep going as the teeth on the outside of the flame-holder are VERY fragile (don't ask me how I know!). From a practical standpoint, once the thing is installed, you aren't going to be able to tell how thick the part is (or isn't). Your nickel (or in this case 500 nickles, plus postage!)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, Piker38 said:

 

OK, so it is possible.................... how does this look ?

ResKit_thinned_8869.jpg

😍 Great job! (brave man!!)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
26 minutes ago, mrvark said:

😍 Great job! (brave man!!)

 

Brave, or reckless and lucky !   I haven't dared to tackle the inner flame-holder part yet !

:-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 minutes ago, Piker38 said:

 

Brave, or reckless and lucky !   I haven't dared to tackle the inner flame-holder part yet !

:-)

Ironically, approached as I described, that part is a relative piece of cake!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 I eventually managed to prepare the second outer flame-holder in the same way, by flat-sanding the part on some sandpaper, initially quite coarse, then swapping to 240 grit as the part got thinner.

Once the main holes opened up, I only moved the part across the sandpaper by pressing on the center section with one finger - to prevent stress on the delicate outer bits.

 

I've also managed to remove the excess resin from the inner flame-holders using the technique described above.............. with a little help from a scalpel to cut away the bulk waste first.

Thanks for the tip, Mr Vark.

 

Well done, ResKit, these are beautiful castings !

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mark, the whole range of Hobby Elements tools is a must have to even the average modeler. Dunno whether or not you've checked out their micro files and the Section Tracer tool.

It's just taken my modeling skills to the next level.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can any of these be used on a FB-111?

 

Thanks;

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 minutes ago, dustiepal said:

Can any of these be used on a FB-111?

 

Thanks;

Dave

 

If you look at the 4th post on this page (my first long post), it lists the different sets and which kits they're designed for--including the FBs.

 

Jim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Hubbie Marsten said:

Mark, the whole range of Hobby Elements tools is a must have to even the average modeler. Dunno whether or not you've checked out their micro files and the Section Tracer tool.

It's just taken my modeling skills to the next level.

 

I've been wanting to get more of his tools, just haven't had the money. They're not cheap.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, mrvark said:

 

If you look at the 4th post on this page (my first long post), it lists the different sets and which kits they're designed for--including the FBs.

 

Jim

Thanks Jim.

 

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, I just received my set for the Hobby Boss Varks (RSU48-0024), and the cast is really exquisite; the detail is quite impressive.

Highly recommended! Very glad I didn't order the G-Factor set instead.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...