Help selecting air comp.

[TAdave]

Hi,

I'm new to model building, but I'm gaining experience.  To date I've only painted with brushes and rattle cans.  I'd like to try airbrushing - and I don't know much about it yet.  I know I should probably buy a good one, but I'm an old guy looking at a winter hobby. I've already spent a lot on PE, resin, paint and supplies to build the Ark Royal (should have gone to 1/350 but didn't know). I have a practice Ark to learn to build all sorts of accessories, and then I'll build the good one. 

 

Anyway, a guy has a Hobbico  CP-101 compressor, filter and air gun that looks new - says it was his son's.  I saw one online for $150 w/o the gun, and he wants $30. I only saw one review and it wasn't good.  For the money, do you think I could learn with this outfit?  I'm never going to be a master at this because I don't have a lifetime but I've always wanted to try this.

 

Thanks,

 

Dave

[Mstor]

As with any task, having good tools makes things go smoother. If you buy some cheap compressor that cause you problems, you won't enjoy the process of airbrushing and won't learn the skills that make airbrushing such a great  tool to have in your chest.

That said, truly high quality compressors cost a lot of money. I have an Iwata Power Jet Pro. It costs over $500 but I have not regretted the purchase one day. It works today as well as it did when I first bought it six or seven years ago.  It is quiet, a BIG plus, has a built in air tank that eliminates any air pulsing you might find on a compressor without a tank. It has two regulators, so I can hook up two airbrushes at a time. But, as I said, expensive and probably not what you are willing to spend.

You can find off brand airbrush compressors with a tank for under $200 and tankless ones for under $100. Most places that sell airbrushes sell some compressors too. Check out this one for a general idea of what is available: https://spraygunner.com/compressor/?sort=priceasc&limit=12&mode=1

Finally, there are also general utility compressors you can get from places like Harbor Freight or Home Depot. You would need to get and attach a regulator with air filter. They also tend to be very noisy. I used a big portable Sears one for years. Worked fine, but made a real racket when running, so no airbrushing at night.

Hope this helps. I am sure others will chime in with recommendations and their experiences with various brand compressors.

 

P.S. I do not under any circumstances recommend the small "pocket" compressors. They do not produce enough air pressure for many model paints and are designed more for nail work, cosmetics or food colors.

Edited November 17, 2019 by Mstor

[dnl42]

@Mstor has sage advice.

 

I have an Iwata Power Jet Lite. Also never regretted the purchase. It replaced a tool compressor, which was quite noisy. There are other good brands of compressors, too. Make sure it has auto-start. My compressor doesn't have a tank--don't miss it for a moment--and just one hookup. I use quick-connect fittings to switch between my 2 airbrushes.

Quality tools also applies to airbrushes. I really like my Iwata airbrushes, but there are other fine brands, too. As @Mstor noted, you'll spend more time fussing with poor tools rather than spending time on learning to correctly use an airbrush. That takes practice. 

 

In general, lacquer paints are the thinnest coating, enamels are thicker, and water-based acrylics are thickest. The thinner the paint, the better paint surface you'll need. Lacquers and acrylics dry quickly. Enamel paints need to cure.

 

If you use paint that needs to be thinned, I strongly suggest you use the same brand thinner, at least to start. I use Mr Color (lacquer), Alclad (lacquer), Colourcoats (enamel), Humbrol (enamel), and Tamiya (alcohol) paints.

 

Don't waste money using paint thinner to clean your airbrush. I can use hardware store lacquer thinner--in a gallon can--to clean the airbrush after use based on the paints I use. If you decide to use Vallejo paint, don't dare use lacquer thinner to clean the airbrush. Medea Airbrush Cleaner works just fine to clean up after Vallejo; water also work.

 

 

[Mstor]

1 hour ago, dnl42 said:

I use quick-connect fittings to switch between my 2 airbrushes.

 

This! If you ever have more than one airbrush, quick-connects are the sliced bread of airbrushing. They make life so much easier.

I agree with everything dnl42 says. His is also sage advice.

Edited November 17, 2019 by Mstor

[Kaibutsu]

1 hour ago, dnl42 said:

If you decide to use Vallejo paint, don't dare use lacquer thinner to clean the airbrush.

 

Had not heard this before.

I appreciate this bit of advice.

 

Thanks!

[airmechaja]

6 hours ago, Kaibutsu said:

If you decide to use Vallejo paint, don't dare use lacquer thinner to clean the airbrush.

 

I have not heard this before either. Are you including Vallejo Air also?  Please enlighten me.

[dnl42]

Yes. I did that once, and it curdled into a nasty goop inside my airbrush. Need a full teardown to clean out...

[ytsejam87]

22 hours ago, TAdave said:

Hi,

I'm new to model building, but I'm gaining experience.  To date I've only painted with brushes and rattle cans.  I'd like to try airbrushing - and I don't know much about it yet.  I know I should probably buy a good one, but I'm an old guy looking at a winter hobby. I've already spent a lot on PE, resin, paint and supplies to build the Ark Royal (should have gone to 1/350 but didn't know). I have a practice Ark to learn to build all sorts of accessories, and then I'll build the good one. 

 

Anyway, a guy has a Hobbico  CP-101 compressor, filter and air gun that looks new - says it was his son's.  I saw one online for $150 w/o the gun, and he wants $30. I only saw one review and it wasn't good.  For the money, do you think I could learn with this outfit?  I'm never going to be a master at this because I don't have a lifetime but I've always wanted to try this.

 

Thanks,

 

Dave

Dave,

Once you try airbrushing, you will love it!

I have been happy thru the past 2+ years with this california air tools compressor.  super quiet, has a tank, and is lightweight, (making it ideal for car work, and other handyman things) 

https://www.ultraquietaircompressor.com/California-Air-Tools-5510A-Ultra-Quiet-Oil-Free-Compressor-CAT-5510A.htm  I would also recommend a combination air regulator/moisture trap, to give you the air pressure control and dry air needed.

 

Airbrush wise, use the 40% off at hobby lobby and pick up either the iwata eclipse hp-cs, or neo CN.  The iwata neo CN is less expensive, but is more challenging to clean than the hp-cs.

 

Most importantly, search and browse the forums here.  Ask questions too!  

 

JoeB

[TAdave]

Thank you all for your replies. I have a lot to learn, and I am doing research now.  I wont be buying a high end unit yet, but I wont buy junk either.  I have my eye on a Badger Aspire TC908 as a compromise. Hobby Lobby doesn't allow the 40% off coupon for Iwata products, though I may still consider the Ninja Jet. I wish that I could find something US made at a decent price - or at all.  I did find a Thomas air brush compressor, NOS, but I can't find any info on it so that's out.

[BaconRaygun]

I got a Master TC-20T for like $85 on Amazon a year and a half ago and it's been working perfectly so far.  I use it three times a week on average.    Thank's to Moore's law, you don't really need to spend $250 on a decent compressor with a tank anymore.  I personally wouldn't buy a low-end compressor from a name brand... because it's more than likely just a re-branded unit.  If you're gonna go with "good" model, then splurge for the Iwata or something else in that range. 

 

Just my $.02.  Save that money for a good compressor in the future. 

 

 

On 11/17/2019 at 8:17 AM, airmechaja said:

 

I have not heard this before either. Are you including Vallejo Air also?  Please enlighten me.

 

Vallejo are all water based acrylics.  You wouldn't thin a lacquer with water, would you?  The inverse is the same... if you try to thin/clean water based paint with lacquer thinner, you're gonna have a bad time.  

 

 

I mostly use lacquers, but for the few water based acrylics that I do use, I just clean up with regular old Windex. 

[TAdave]

Are accessories for the better compressors brand specific?

 

And, I note that some compressors are piston-type and others diaphragm-type.  For a novice, is it important?

[TAdave]

After a lot of reading, I've about decided on a Iwata Studio Series Sprint Jet and the Neo Cn gravity feed air brush, based on reviews.  Is a gravity feed brush better than a siphon/bottle feed?  Still open to feedback though.

[dnl42]

I had a Badger 360, which could go either way. Never had use for the siphon feed.  Not sure what you build, but the 1/48 models I build use surprisingly little paint, even primer coats and clear coats in an HP-TH with its 0.5mm nozzle.

[ElectroSoldier]

By the sound of it for the amount you'll be using it you wont need an expensive compressor, you are better off spending the saved money on a better airbrush. Iwata HP-CS is a really nice entry level one to go for or another brand in the same price range.. The compressor should cost you less than the airbrush.

 

Florymodels do a good youtube channel that will tell you how to use it properly with some actual working real work examples of the problems you will face when you first start using it.

[Helmsman]

On 11/18/2019 at 9:29 PM, TAdave said:

Is a gravity feed brush better than a siphon/bottle feed?

I'd say yes because gravity feed is way easier to clean. All the rest is about the same.

[ElectroSoldier]

On 11/19/2019 at 3:29 AM, TAdave said:

 Is a gravity feed brush better than a siphon/bottle feed?  Still open to feedback though.

It really depends on what you are doing with it.
If you want to change colours often and have a large reserve of paint on hand at all times then a siphon feed wins every time.

Gravity feed allows a lower pressure to be used and in general allow for finer detail... Which is not to say that siphon feed doesnt though

[BaconRaygun]

I'm a total noob and I'm just speculating here... but, I have never felt that my HP-CS has a paint reservoir that was too small for my needs.  The only scenario that I can think of that would warrant a siphon fed brush (for 1:48 or 1:72 models) is if you are painting multiple models at once, or just building large bombers and whatnot.  I can definitely see the need for a brush with a larger needle, though.  Would certainly make priming and applying gloss coats much easier. 

 

I'm sure I am missing something, but that's what makes logical sense to me.  

[ElectroSoldier]

Yeah but you have to remember the use we have as scale modellers is rather limited compared to the sheer amount of users out there.

 

I started using an airbrush to paint, I moved on to retouching photographs, in that use the colour cup of an HP-CS was really rather large. back then I couldnt imagine needing such a large colour cup, not my HP-CH is the to go as its enough without having to keep refilling, my SB+ colour cup is rather small as it has a 3.6ml colour cup.

It depends on what you use it for.

In general a  scale modeller would want something like an HP-CS as it has more pros than cons for that kind of work.

[BaconRaygun]

I did take that into consideration when I wrote that post, that's why I mentioned 1:48 and 1:72 models.  I'm talking specifically for building models.  If one is to use airbrushes for other things, then of course what I said is probably irrelivant.  

 

I would imagine if I was airbrushing a poster, then I would probably want a large reservoir. 

[ElectroSoldier]

Maybe youre right. Maybe an HP-CS will hold enough for some of the larger 72nd and 48th scale models.

Such a limited single use case isnt something Ive thought abbout with them, Ive never limited myself or my use of one to just making model aeroplanes with them

[Helmsman]

I had zero problems with HP-CS on 1/32 models. 

[TAdave]

Again, thanks to all for the info.  I should have stated earlier that I am primarily building 1/700 scale ships, for better or worse.  Knowing what I know now I wish that I had gone with 1/350 but with all the PE, resin and other supplies I have  in 1/700 scale I can't change that now.  Looks like I'll be building Royal Navy WWII ships for a while.  I was able to find Kagero  Top Drawings for the Ark Royal, from Poland, as well as tapered brass masts.  I have pictures of the Ark, but not that many, perhaps because she was sunk so early in the war.

 

So now, it looks like I'll go with the Iwata Studio Series Sprint Jet and a HP-CS brush.  When I have all the equipment I'll research paint because I have a lot of Vallejo paint for the ship. Bought it when I was planning on using a brush, as one of the folks at White Ensign Models said he does.  I would have used their paint but it had to come from the US and the distributor was out of most colors I needed.