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Top Gun 1986 F-14A (Tamiya 1/48 - in-flight twin build))


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Thanks, Janne!  

 

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The hue really changes depending on the background color.  Tried it using both the phone and the real camera with the same results.  Maybe that's what these TPS schemes do?

 

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Next up -- back to the walkways!  : )

 

 

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Hi Aigore thanks : )   

 

Panel lines are done for the topside.   Still need to darken some sections.

 

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And working on panel lines at the bottom.    I actually have a few problems.  One of them is the brownish section of the engine -- have to darken it or repaint it altogether.  And from watching some walkarounds in youtube : ) -- I see the middle section feathers are actually shiny metal but heat-stained so I might try to paint them over with Alclad steel and try some heat-staining effects.  Lastly.. I tried on some of the decals (have promptly removed them).  I notice that because of the darkening effect of the blackbasing, and because you have to control the layers for the modulations to show, the paint ends up being darker than normal and the decals are rendered invisible : )   Will have to try and lighten up the paint.   I may lose some of the weathering that way, but will have to accept some tradeoffs eventually.

Edited by crackerjazz
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Looks great. If you‚Äôre using Fightertown Decals, make sure you‚Äôre using the right color gray 35237 decals. The lighter ones 36375 are for the overall 35237 VF-41 NSAWC jet and will be too light. ūüĎćūüŹĽ
 

brian 

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Thanks, Janne!  Great info, Brian, thanks! 

 

I guess the biggest problem with black-basing (or at least the way I did it) is it changes the color hue and brightness/darkness and that works against the decals which are made to specs.   In my case my LGG is already as dark as DGG because of the black base.   And my DGG is darker than normal. 

 

I made some color references using MRP paint on sheet styrene.  Stuck the decal on a piece of clear plastic so I can hold it against the background color for checking contrast.

 

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For some areas the contrast is ok:

 

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...while some are problematic, with not enough contrast.  In some areas the decals even end up being lighter in color than the background.

 

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I'll need to spray on some more layers to lighten the shades.   And I think for my future TPS-scheme builds I'll just spray the paint full on and maybe use oil-dot filtering to get the scruffy Tomcat look.

 

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" I guess the biggest problem with black-basing (or at least the way I did it) is it changes the color hue and brightness/darkness and that works against the decals which are made to specs.   In my case my LGG is already as dark as DGG because of the black base.   And my DGG is darker than normal. "

 

This is the reason I paint my jets "factory fresh" then weather accordingly with dirt / grime and, corrosion touch ups. After all, this is how real jets weather. IMO black basing is a total waste of time. Plus, MRP paints are off as far as FS colors go. Just my two cents however.

 

Steve

"TOMCATS FOREVER, BABY...!"

Edited by A-10 LOADER
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Yeah, I'll be giving that a try next time; I learned a valuable lesson.  I don't like my Tomcats anymore, haha.  But I'll just work with what I have right now -- just need to add a few more layers -- I'm sure they'll still look ok.

 

If there's any good that came out if this, though, it's that I was able to satisfy my curiosity - or else I'd always be wondering what it's like to black-base.   I think it's still a good tool in your arsenal - there are cases where the surfaces are rough -- like 3D-printed parts where washes or pigments might settle into the layer lines and highlight them.  I think black-based weathering would help in those cases.  Also, for my previous A-7E build where I used Abteilung oils for weathering, peeling masks off would sometimes turn into a horror show as they would lift the oil layers even in areas I've already clear-coated even though I've given them weeks to dry.  For black-based weathering the layers are all solid paint so peeling masks off is no problem.   Just a little disappointed that what I initially perceived was a faster way to weather turned out to be the opposite.  I'm still amazed at how others are able to black-base their low-viz F-14s without any decal contrast issues. 

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So let me get this straight... You did a great job on painting some two of the nicest Tomcats out there, and then You did id all over again. Are You trying to teach us to paint Tomcats harder, more agressively than we ever painted them before? ūüėČ

I'm generally with You on the darker more blueish hue with the black basing. I tried adding white to the lgg and dgg till it kind of became like adding grays to whites. I keep getting no contrast whatsowever between the two. But the mottling is a very nice effect. Plus there is really little need for panel line wash, as it always seems to me, the top colour doesn't go in them. I've read somewhere that doing dark gray base might help with the darkening of the final coat. Still have to check it.

 

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I’m no expert at all, but it occurs to me that you may try something that is quite common in tank modeling : apply a light filter to lighten the tone without adding another layer. I’ve used it to replicate sun fading in a couple of tanks and I believe that if you find the proper tone it may be what you need.

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Hi @Thadeus, blueish hue is right -- the black does that, doesn't it?     I wanted to experiment some more on some test mules and see what other basing colors can be used so as not to affect the hue too much, but The F-14s looks bluish in some movie scenes and production shots/clips, anyway, so maybe I can get away with it : )

 

 

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Looks like that anti-glare section in front of the windscreen extends towards the tip of the nose?

 

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Hi @marques, just trying to get the correct oil colors to use for that purpose.   I'll be doing all weathering with oils the next time I do a TPS scheme.

 

Hi @Brian P: Fightertown Decals, just trying to see if I have all the low-viz decals  I need.  Seems like I may need to get a separate set for general low-viz F-14 markings, is that correct?  

 

That intake marking has "Danger" on the upper bar instead of "Jet" -- haven't seen this type of decal in any F-14 low-viz set -- maybe it's not very common.

 

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I noticed in some shots that the bottom of the drop tanks show some white stains or chipping?   I was thinking maybe the bottom gets scraped when the fuel tanks are pushed onto dollies for storage but they seem to be stored upside-down: 

 

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These jets don't have any of the factory stencils. These are post cruise jets and have been painted, repainted, CC'd, washed, touched up so much that nothing of them would remain. But add whatever makes you happy. For the DANGER on the intake stripe, what jet was that? Was it a filming jet or a flightline jet? It may have Jet further back. Some squadrons would have DANGER JET INTAKE on the stripe. Some have DANGER separate...

-brian

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Oh, no that's fine.  I want to keep it true to the movie Tomcats.    Just the essential decals, no more no less : )   I'm just not intimate yet with the markings I need from the set to spot them easily from the mix.  But that's actually great info about the stencils, thanks -- I get to save and keep the models authentic at the same time : )  Re the intake stripes -- not really sure which jet that is.  Some of the promo shots are of random jets, so I might just use what's available.

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The bottom of the drop tanks would be scoffed and scrapped with paint chipped off. 

 

While they were stored upside down (to prevent rain water from collecting in the trough) they were still sat on the deck when removed off the bird and slide across the deck/flight line to get them out from under the aircraft. 

 

Also, it was very common from them to be dropped off the bird and sat on the deck below the rack chocked (to keep it from rolling over) while maintenance was being performed on the rack.

 

Basically, the bottom of the tank got "abused" even though they were stored upside down.

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Wow!  Thanks for the inside information, GW!   That explains it : )     I was trying to make sense of it from the making-of vid.    I thought it was leaking fuel but was wondering why it was white : )

  

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Here's an F-14D photo by Tyson V. Rininger.  Used with permission.   Here's his website for awesome aviation photos:   https://www.tvrphotography.com/index

 

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Repainted the feathers, too -- after realizing that the middle feathers were actually bare metal with heavy staining.    But unlike the long feathers at the end which are really burnt/toasted,  the bare metal material of the middle feathers sometimes shows through -  at least on some of the petals.   

 

F-14B or D nozzles seem to have a cleaner look to them,  but TF-30s give off that vibe that you don't want to be near them or you'll be covered in soot : )

Edited by crackerjazz
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  • 2 weeks later...

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Was wondering about the decal placement.   Looking at the reference pics the yellow ones seem to be positioned higher and closer to the leading edge.

 

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I wonder which jet this is --  It's stil got glove vanes sticking out.   Or they were probably still in use back then.

 

For the red and blue decals I was too excited slapping them on; I should've checked the reference pics better -- seems like they should sit a little lower with a good portion of it on the rudder, the edge of the ribbon touching the end of the stiffener.    I wanted to correct it but it's too late for that now.   

 

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I do see the yellow badge in another position here:   Maybe they're peel-off stickers that can be repositioned : )

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