The Ghost Tiger Typhoon a little bigger (tackling the 1/48 Revell Eurofighter Typhoon as training for 1/32)-FINISHED

[bushande]

We are not yet there but it is almost done. There are the tubes of the air conditioning system that run along the canopy frame, there are a few hooks to fix the pulpit and surprise even more cables! On the port side is a small blue button under the glass with a safety notice. I will add it for fun while I'm at it anyways. And I must not forget to add the sfaety pin for the canopy lock and the hinge point just aft!

 

 

 

Edited January 23, 2020 by bushande

[bushande]

As if the whole thing wasn't difficult enough, in addition, the pipes are also "dented". Aaaw maaaaaan, does that have to be ?! Well, we don't want this project to be boring after all hihihi. A couple of shaped and bent plastic rots and some wire should do the trick, I hope:

 

 

[bushande]

Finally, I put some chrome foil onto a few unused old photoetch mirrors and formed the "Oh shoot"-handles on the side of the canopy frame out of thin wire, painted and finally glued the whole thing into the canopy.

[bushande]

Doooooooone! (well .... the canopy that is - finaly!)

 

 

 

[bushande]

Alright, fits just about right I think ..... And most importantly ... it sits at the right spot now!!!

 

 

[bushande]

All that checking references makes you kind of loose sight from time to time. Spot the plane! Hihihihi 😂

[bushande]

O.k. that's it for today. Next time the Ghost Tiger gets it's driver.

Edited January 23, 2020 by bushande

[bushande]

Well, today's post is a little shorter. I have dedicated myself to the pilot this time. Let's take a look at the original first. Similar to the Italian and Spanish Air Force and contrary to the RAF equipment, Luftwaffe pilots wear an ACS helmet with an MBU-20 mask and what is easily noticeable is the anchoring of the oxygen hose on the side of the helmet and the loops on the anti-G vest along with the connector module for the oxygen supply of the jet. The little things, such as the obligatory pen, won't like be noticed in that medium scale, but are a nice detail find out and ponder about on the model.

[bushande]

Unfortunately, the market doesn't really offer much in terms of matching figures. The only thing that comes into consideration is the "Modern RAF Pilot" figure by PJ productions. The figure is really very beautiful, but it is what it is, namely a pilot of the Royal Airforce and there are a few differences that can be clearly seen. In addition, the pilot is shown in a relaxed position with the visor open. So I have to carve a lot.

 

The posture has to be changed, the helmet is roughly transformed into an ACS; I want to show the rotator for the visor a little differently, the protective cover should be readjusted using putty and of course the pilot needs a suitable visor. I try to make the mask look something like an MBU-20 and I must not forget the attachment for the side-mounted oxygen hose. Small details such as the pen are just a gimmick for the eye and for easier installation he gets the stick and throttle in his hand. Unfortunately I have to amputate his legs so that he fits into the cockpit, but you won't see them at all in the end the right direction. I will keep the head turned to the side, because at the end the Ghost Tiger will be tilted to the side and he looks just the right way. .... well, let's see, maybe as a precaution I'll just make a second pilot with a view straight on? let's see.

 

 

[bushande]

And that's what the dude looks like painted ...

[bushande]

Off into the cockpit with him and then that is it for today.
Next time we will continue with a few more details on the hull.

 

[bushande]

There's still a tiny wee bit ahead of us but we ae almost there. Before I turn to the engines, a few small details are added to some individual parts and to the fuselage.
The outer missile pylons still needed to get their chaff dispensers and all it too was a few details to the cooling vents and the rear. First a look at the original:

 

 

and then a qucik fix to the kit parts, i.e. add the cooling vents and drill the rear open and ad some tape and bits to make it roughly look the part:

 

[bushande]

The intake ramps have a rather complicated structure on their sides. Revell's ramps are smooth on the sides, but I admit 1/48 is really too fiddly to turn anything around there. Nevertheless ...

 

[bushande]

I also tried to readjust the rain vent and some panellines in front of the windshield. I admit that my reference photos are not optimal here. I still hope for a little bit of support to better adapt that later on ...

 

[bushande]

O.k. ... and now it's going to get mighty funny again. I admit I wasn't aware of how many raised rivets the Tiffy has. It was absolute """fun""" to put that (For those that can't sens the sarcasm ... it wasn't!!!) . The rear area is teeming with these darned things, from the fin over the engine covers to the wing edges and the bleedair ducts on the belly, everything is full. What a joy. Let's look at the original again:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[bushande]

And here is the result of my fumbling that brought me close to a nervous breakdown. Almost a whole sheet of those things went into this.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[bushande]

Last post for today: I'm not sure what that is, but I guess it's some kind of antenna or ECM thing, but the little bumps at the rear end of the wing roots are rendered round in the kit. But they should be flat according to the original. So they were sanded flat acordingly:

 

[bushande]

Next time we'll see to the engines. Oh this is gonna be a blast! 🙄🤪

[bushande]

As threatened, it will be a little bit longer this time. We turn our attention to the engines. What does Revell offer us there? ....
Hmmpffff ... well, not a total loss, but let's be honest, there's a LOT of potential to do it better:

 

[bushande]

Two issues become apparent and right away spoil the mood.
1. The darned things are too long; on the original, the nozzles are almost in one line with the rear of the fuselage or more specific the door for the brake chute.
2. the nozzles also bend to the wrong side; on the kit piece it bends towards starboard, while on the original the nozzles bend towards the port side.
Here is for the reference with the original:

 

 

 

 

[bushande]

I admit, whatever I do, the result will surely only be that of some kind of scratch building. Don't be too harsh on me!
A few years back the manufacturer "Olimp" released some resin parts for the Tiffy. They are rather hard to get nowadays. I was able to grab a set of resin nozzles for a cheap price in a stash sale, but I have to state that as hard as they are to get, so little can they be used.
At least they bend in the right direction, BUT ......

 

[bushande]

.... the Nozzles are even longer than the already too long Revell cans and the diameter is far too big, hence they do not fit on the kit. Unfortunately there is not enough material to sand it down to the necessary diameter.

[bushande]

At first I had the idea to separate the nozzles from the outer ring, sand the inner ring with all the controls as well as the separated nozzles as flat as possible and then glue the thinned out nozzles onto the smaller inner ring. But the material was so thin that it started to curl and bend under the glue. So that went south then. Let's try something different:

 

[bushande]

In terms of shape, the Revell parts are actually really ok. I decided to make two sets of engines now; let's see which one turns out better in the end. What I dwon't use is preparatory work for another Typhoon.
At least I like Olimp's inner collars. The nozzles are junk, but at least I want to keep the parts that are useful. The turbine and the rest are actually very nice, so I'll probably still use them.
First I sanded down the inner collar as far as possible. Then the back was shortened so that it has the correct length, i.e. it is flush with the rear. Another tiny bit, then it should be just about right:

[bushande]

Fortunately, Revell, as so often, offers a lot of thick plastic; enough to sand and grind properly, and above all enough to also reshape parts if necessary. So I roughly hollowed out the Revell nozzles and removed all the plastic between the nozzles. Then I carefully sanded the kink of the nozzles on the correct port side with sandpaper and otherwise carefully sanded away the rest of the material with a dremel. Then they were trimmed to the correct length: