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Sysxii

Replacing raised panel lines with scribed ones

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I'm looking to add the 1/48 Monogram F-105 to my shelf at some point in the near future. From what I've read, its the best Thud kit out there. However, it has raised panels lines. On many builds I have seen others remove the raised panel lines, and scribe new ones. I have never done this before and wanted to check with others on what the best methods would be for this type of task.

Thanks in advance. 

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On straight (or nearly straight) lines, run the scriber backwards along the raised panel lines to establish a shallow groove. Then use the normal pulling motion to enhance the groove.

 

On circular/oval etc areas you will probably need a scribing guide.

 

Randy Lutz had a very concise guide to rescribing, but I can't find it with Google. Maybe someone else can chime in with the info. I may have it on an old computer.

 

Bob

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Thanks for the info. So it sounds like the raised lines should be used as the guide to scribe the new ones, then sand them down afterwards?

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I do each line by itself. I use a shape blade to remove the raised line then scribe the mark thats left behind.
It takes a long time but worth it. I did the Monogram Hun many moons ago and it turned out ok I thought.

There are many methods I would get some more from here and go with one you like the sound of

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2 hours ago, Sysxii said:

Thanks for the info. So it sounds like the raised lines should be used as the guide to scribe the new ones, then sand them down afterwards?

 

Correct. On the first few reverse passes, use very light pressure (just the weight of the scriber) and angle it slightly into the raised panel line. I think tomorrow I may be able to do a cut and paste of the appropriate paragraph.

 

Bob

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22 hours ago, ElectroSoldier said:

I use a shape blade to remove the raised line then scribe the mark thats left behind.

 

A shape blade, huh? :hmmm:That'll do, for sure... okay.

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33 minutes ago, Hubbie Marsten said:

 

A shape blade, huh? :hmmm:That'll do, for sure... okay.

Its a spelling mistake.

While you are correcting me on mine maybe you could take some time and consider yours...
Maybe you could get a friend to proof read your post from now on... Just when you are feeling in the mood to correct people, as its generally best practice not to make a mistake in the correcting of them. Otherwise you might come away looking just a little bit more foolish than you would do normally.

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1 hour ago, ElectroSoldier said:

Its a spelling mistake.

 

Oh, so sorry, dude; just thought it was more of a typing mistake... :rolleyes: But each to their own.

 

 

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On 1/30/2020 at 5:02 PM, Sysxii said:

wanted to check with others on what the best methods would be for this type of task.

 

I have always removed each raised panel line first, then scribe a new one in its place to avoid shifting the new line's location by a hair.  For straight lines, I used either a thin self stick aluminum tape or dymo tape as a guide.  For circles and curves, I used templates.

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9 hours ago, Hubbie Marsten said:

 

Oh, so sorry, dude; just thought it was more of a typing mistake... :rolleyes: But each to their own.

 

 

A typographical error is a spelling mistake. . .
Im not sure if you are doing this on purpose or just pretending

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3mm_1024x1024.png?v=1504719889 and blob__41234.1475211189.png

My rescribing unbeatable duo. They've taken my modelling skills into the next level. Best than anything else I tried before.

 

7 hours ago, ElectroSoldier said:

A typographical error is a spelling mistake. . .
Im not sure if you are doing this on purpose or just pretending

 

Not at all; might go check your semantics. You meant to type sharp instead of shape:rolleyes: That's not spelling but a typo.

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6 hours ago, Hubbie Marsten said:

3mm_1024x1024.png?v=1504719889 and blob__41234.1475211189.png

My rescribing unbeatable duo. They've taken my modelling skills into the next level. Best than anything else I tried before.

 

 

Not at all; might go check your semantics. You meant to type sharp instead of shape:rolleyes: That's not spelling but a typo.

 I have that tape, it is really god stuff! 

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20 hours ago, RichardL said:

 

I have always removed each raised panel line first, then scribe a new one in its place to avoid shifting the new line's location by a hair.  For straight lines, I used either a thin self stick aluminum tape or dymo tape as a guide.  For circles and curves, I used templates.

Do you remove the line completely? I have thought of that and would be concerned about removing the line completely and scribing in the wrong spot.

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2 hours ago, Sysxii said:

Do you remove the line completely? I have thought of that and would be concerned about removing the line completely and scribing in the wrong spot.

 

Yes, remove the line completely.  There will be a shadow where the line was as the plastic will be in a slightly different color.  For a straight line, if you are unsure, just remove both ends and use a fine pencil to mark the ends, then remove the rest of the line.  You can then line up your guide tape or ruler using the two marks.

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23 minutes ago, RichardL said:

 

Yes, remove the line completely.  There will be a shadow where the line was as the plastic will be in a slightly different color.  For a straight line, if you are unsure, just remove both ends and use a fine pencil to mark the ends, then remove the rest of the line.  You can then line up your guide tape or ruler using the two marks.

This is exactly the way I do it. It did the Monogram F-101 Voodoo and I worked a small area at a time, removing the old raised line and scribing the new one in its place.  The outline is still visible to follow. I would also take a picture of all the parts of the kit to see where all the detail and rivets go, in case I didn’t find accurate drawings. 

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11 hours ago, Hubbie Marsten said:

3mm_1024x1024.png?v=1504719889 and blob__41234.1475211189.png

My rescribing unbeatable duo. They've taken my modelling skills into the next level. Best than anything else I tried before.

 

 

Not at all; might go check your semantics. You meant to type sharp instead of shape:rolleyes: That's not spelling but a typo.

 

I use that tape too. Works great. More flexible than Dymo tape. For scribing I recently started using the UMM tool.

UMM01%20Scriber%20SCR-01%20UNIVERSAL.jpg

http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_105&products_id=474

Most of my scribing is redoing panel lines that have been sanded out. This scriber is great for that, especially around curves. I've got a number of other scribers. An old Tamiya one, a Bare Metal one, and then there is the ever trusty needle in a pin vice. The only thing really useful for scribing access hatches using PE templates.

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On 2/2/2020 at 9:39 AM, Hubbie Marsten said:
On 2/2/2020 at 2:21 AM, ElectroSoldier said:

A typographical error is a spelling mistake. . .
Im not sure if you are doing this on purpose or just pretending

Not at all; might go check your semantics. You meant to type sharp instead of shape:rolleyes: That's not spelling but a typo.

Wow, you two are worse than my 10 & 12 year old daughters. Are you sure you guys aren't married or something? Geeez...

 

A subject similar to this came up a little while back and I'd thought about trying the even slightly more realistic method of drawing panel lines on with a fine lead pencil. I think doing that approach correctly could yield some great results, I just haven't tried it yet. But the good thing is, you could try it and it's not to your liking you can always go back and scribe them. 

Edited by niart17

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This is all great information. Thank you to everyone who shared their thoughts. I suppose that whichever method I choose....it will be a long process. Could always be worse.

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Just remember to practice on a paint target, not your latest masterpiece.

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On ‎2‎/‎3‎/‎2020 at 12:15 AM, Mstor said:

 

I use that tape too. Works great. More flexible than Dymo tape. For scribing I recently started using the UMM tool.

UMM01%20Scriber%20SCR-01%20UNIVERSAL.jpg

http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_105&products_id=474

Most of my scribing is redoing panel lines that have been sanded out. This scriber is great for that, especially around curves. I've got a number of other scribers. An old Tamiya one, a Bare Metal one, and then there is the ever trusty needle in a pin vice. The only thing really useful for scribing access hatches using PE templates.

 

Mark, that tape is so good that I'm always restocking it after every new single roll is opened. I'd be terribly scared that it suddenly went discontinued.

 

On ‎2‎/‎2‎/‎2020 at 7:02 PM, Sysxii said:

 I have that tape, it is really god stuff! 

 

Sysxii, one another tool that I'd recommend you when repanelling is the MIssion Models micro-chisel; awesome weapon for getting rid of those raised panel lines which are very near of raised rivets (like in the old Monogram 1/48 F4F kit, for instance). It's got three different interchangeable blades: 2mm, 1mm (flats) and one 1mm round that is simply magnifique for scouring round cannon blasting crevices and the likes. That's the two-mil flat in the handle, along the one-mil flat for comparison with a matchstick. Really sharp blades! Replacement blades can be purchased separately.

 

TGeqYlC.jpg

 

15 hours ago, niart17 said:

Are you sure you guys aren't married or something? Geeez... 

 

Well, I don't dig men, but it wouldn't be the first time a man had fallen in love with my ways. :tease: What, are you trying to hit on me as well, niart17? :rofl:

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6 hours ago, Hubbie Marsten said:

 

Mark, that tape is so good that I'm always restocking it after every new single roll is opened. I'd be terribly scared that it suddenly went discontinued.

 

 

Sysxii, one another tool that I'd recommend you when repanelling is the MIssion Models micro-chisel; awesome weapon for getting rid of those raised panel lines which are very near of raised rivets (like in the old Monogram 1/48 F4F kit, for instance). It's got three different interchangeable blades: 2mm, 1mm (flats) and one 1mm round that is simply magnifique for scouring round cannon blasting crevices and the likes. That's the two-mil flat in the handle, along the one-mil flat for comparison with a matchstick. Really sharp blades! Replacement blades can be purchased separately.

 

TGeqYlC.jpg

 

 

Well, I don't dig men, but it wouldn't be the first time a man had fallen in love with my ways. :tease: What, are you trying to hit on me as well, niart17? :rofl:

Thanks! Probably will be easier to use this as opposed to just sanding them down.

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On 2/4/2020 at 3:23 PM, Sysxii said:

Thanks! Probably will be easier to use this as opposed to just sanding them down.

 

I have one of those chisels, but released by a different company. Can't remember who. It is very handy but you have to be very careful as its easy to dig too deep into the plastic or gouge it. I use it mainly for removing unwanted details or cutting down and thinning areas.

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