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Gloss Over Decals Necessary?


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I know the teaching has always been to gloss, decal, then a second gloss to help hide the decal edges.  I have typically done oil washes right over decals with turpenoid thinner and had no issues with the decals.  So I can practically speaking go straight to the flat coat.  However, I do find on some kits (primarily Tamiya and Hasegawa with thicker out-of-box decals) I can see the decal edges sometimes.  So perhaps I should do this second gloss coat.  However, other than the leveling properties of gloss, I'm not sure I see how another coat of paint would make much difference.  Any thoughts or comments?

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There is the idea of burying the decals between layers of clear. I am not sure if it is effective at hiding the edges of thick decals. It might help a little. 

 

I find my self applying a layer of clear after decals since I like to use enamel washes, which can interact with lacquer and enamel paint. An acrylic clear coat seems to act like a barrier to prevent the enamel from interacting with the color coats.  However I apply decals directly to my paint without an initial gloss coat. 

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Good point about the acrylic clear for enamel washes. I use acrylics to start, mostly Tamiya, Vallejo, and Model Master, so for me a moot point. 
 

Are your base colors flat or gloss? I’ve heard of a few people “polish” a flat paint with 4000 grit sand paper and decal successfully. I do see silvering creep in at times, so I haven’t been brave enough to try it over a flat finish myself. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

My thought, and what seems to work for me, is that by applying one or maybe two coats of gloss after applying decals allows for light sanding to help remove the decal edge. This I've found especially helpful when using Tamiya and Hasegawa decals. These tend to be thicker than others and almost always end up with a slightly visible edge. The coats of clear, will show up as the raised edge and then you can use a light sanding to blend that edge down and hit it again with another light coat of gloss to blend it all together. I typically use GX 112 & 113 UV cut clears as my final clears, thinned with MLT or Mr. Rapid Thinner, depending on the finish I'm going for.

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I apply a gloss coat over the decals for the reasons noted above and also to protect them from the effects of aging. One some of the very old kits I have had, that I did not put a coat over the decals, over the years the decals have aged and discolored. I think a protective clear coat that seals the decals prevents air and moisture from seeping under the decals and causing the decal adhesives to discolor. At least that is my theory. I haven't had that happen to any decals since using a protective coat. I actually don't think, for this purpose, it matters whether the coat is gloss or matt or anywhere in between, as long as it completely seals the decal.

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