Please advise a good decal setting solution

[dai phan]

Hello all,

 

Yesterday I started to apply the decals on my Eduard F104. The decals are made by Cartograft  which is good but the carrier film is way too thick and the adhesive is weak. I used the Vallejo decal fix and it works but leaves a nasty film that can be only removed with thinner ( and in turn damaged the decals  ). I removed as much as I could before it sets but still, the left over is like a clear coat that have to be removed with a strong solvent. Water has no effect. So what I am asking is for a decal setting solution that is benign to the clear coat as well as the decals. Any suggestions? Thanks Dai 

 

[shion]

As setter and low power softener:

 

 

Then as powerful softener:

 

[dai phan]

31 minutes ago, shion said:

As setter and low power softener:

 

 

Then as powerful softener:

 

Will any of these affect the gloss coat? The Vallejo softener completely ruined the Vallejo metal gloss coat. Dai 

[Mstor]

With Cartograph decals I have often had luck using good old Microscale Set and Sol. Set is applied first and acts as a wetting solution and improves the decals own adhesives. Sol is used afterwards to soften the decal. It is a mild to medium softener, usually best on thinner decals. Most of the Cartograph decals I have seen are pretty thin so it usually works well. If not, I hit it with Mr Mark Softer.

[HistnScale]

For thicker decals or especially Eduard decals, I go straight to solvaset.  It's fairly hot but I have never had it damage a decal (inclusing thin ones) nor has it affected a clear coat or a metal finish.  The guideline is do not put on a heavy wash of solvaset.  A light coat usually does it.  Footnote, on the new ICM decals (B-26) solvaset makes the decal lay down like a coat of paint.

HTH, Dave

[Dave Williams]

I just use the standard Micro Set and Sol for most decals.  For thicker stuff like Cartograf and Tamiya decals, I use Solvaset.

[dai phan]

18 minutes ago, Dave Williams said:

I just use the standard Micro Set and Sol for most decals.  For thicker stuff like Cartograf and Tamiya decals, I use Solvaset.

I heard Solvaset if not ULTRA careful can ruin a gloss coat and decals. Dai 

 

 

[modelingbob]

12 minutes ago, dai phan said:

I heard Solvaset if not ULTRA careful can ruin a gloss coat and decals. Dai 

 

 

Yes, Solvaset can damage some acrylic gloss coats if you're not careful. Most every strong decal solvent that contains alcohol has the ability to damage some acrylic and acrylic lacquer clear coats. A tip to help prevent this is to not let the solvent "puddle" on the surface, and to gently wick away any puddles with a soft absorbent towel before they can damage the clear coat. 

[The Underdog]

I've used Micro Set and Sol, and have no complaints with these products. Both perform as

advertised.

[dai phan]

7 hours ago, modelingbob said:

Yes, Solvaset can damage some acrylic gloss coats if you're not careful. Most every strong decal solvent that contains alcohol has the ability to damage some acrylic and acrylic lacquer clear coats. A tip to help prevent this is to not let the solvent "puddle" on the surface, and to gently wick away any puddles with a soft absorbent towel before they can damage the clear coat. 

My coat is gloss. I just need a good solution to enhance the adhesive. I have read the Vallejo decal fix is nothing more than a clear coat and that is why I need strong solvent to remove any residue left over. And the strong solvent will attack the ink of the decals. Dai 

Edited March 2, 2020 by dai phan

[IPMSUSA2]

Solvaset is  my go to decal solution.  Be aware that you can also weaken it by adding a little water, which I do if I think it will be too hot for the decals I'm working with.  As with everything we use, test first.

[weirich1]

Testors Model Master Decal Set since the late 1980s and Walthers Solvaset since 2009.

[gkwan]

I usually use Future.  It acts like decal glue, and when it dries, it pulls the decal down into panel lines, etc.

[Collin]

First:  let your gloss coat dry completely, a few days at a minimum. 

Second: test your decals using a bottom decal first, in case you screw up. 

Third:  everyone’s particular product above works. Bottom line, use water or a setting solution (micro set/mr setting solution) to get the decals placed on the model, wick that away THEN use the stronger/hotter setting solution. Lightly brush on s thin coat. One not mentioned above is Tamiya X-22A, it’s a great setting solution. 

Forth:  when using strong setting solutions DON’T let it pool on the decals (remember a light coat, don’t flood it on the decal). A pooled drop of strong solution will burn a soft spot and damage the decals. Put a light coat of strong solution on the decals (and if it wrinkles up don’t worry, that’s normal), look for any pooling solution and wick it away ( I use the corner of a paper towel). Critical you don’t forcibly touch or move the decal after the harsher setting solution has been put on (and your decals have wrinkled up a little). 

Most important step, walk away and let the solution do its work. This part sucks because your newly applied decals are on the kit and wrinkled, and you want to see a better result. Walk away and let the decal dry out on its own. It should flatten out, get sucked down firmly onto the model and the wrinkles disappear. I am doing decals currently on my 1/48 Invader and all the above is happening. I normally decal in the morning or late at night where I either go to work or sleep and that is my “walk away” time where I just let the chemicals do their thing. 

 

Cheers

Collin

[IPMSUSA2]

For those who have gone one step beyond and are thinking about making their own decals, I authored an ebook called...what else...Making Your  Own Decals.  You can find full information on it by going here.  Below, I've provided an excerpt from Chapter 11...actually most of the Chapter...dealing with applying a DIY decal that be of some help.

 

"Because the fixative coat you use to waterproof the ink creates a solid sheet of carrier film, applying that newly made DIY decal isn’t as simple as with a kit decal…or even many of the commercially available aftermarket decals.  If you’re new to making your own decal, you’re probably used to cutting out a decal from the kit sheet…not trying to get too close to the design…and slapping it on the model in nothing flat.  Homemade decals require a different tack.

Before starting your decaling session, the model’s been gloss coated with Future or other clear coat of your choice and allowed to dry thoroughly…hasn’t it?  If not, do that before you ever cut the decal out. Assuming your decal was printed on clear paper, you’ll need to trim as close to the design as you can get without damaging it.  This eliminates as much of the excess carrier film as possible.  Now dip it in water for a few seconds or more…long enough to get the decal and its paper backing good ‘n wet.  Depending on how you like to work and completely ignoring all the ‘professional’ recommendations, wait’ll the decal moves easily on its paper backing, then slide it off onto the surface of the model. 

You’ll also find frequent recommendations to brush on a thin coat of decal setting solution before you apply the decal, claiming that it helps the decal move easier.  While that may or may not be true, all I’ve ever done is slop on more water.  It’s pretty much your choice.

A lot of modelers…as well as decal manufacturers and model magazines…tell you to gently slide the decal from the backing paper to the model using a small paint brush, cotton swab or something similar.  Well, maybe.  If the decal’s wet enough and moves easily enough, your finger might do the job.  Continuing in that line, depending on the thickness of the decal, its overall size, how wet the surface of the model is, your personal experience/preferences and a number of other factors, you may even be able to do final positioning by adjusting the decal with the same finger.  But regardless of what method you use to position DIY decals, they are more likely to require delicate handling than kit decals.

When it comes to squeezing out surplus water under the decal, the method I normally use is about as dangerous as you can get.  I’m used to positioning a decal, then rolling my thumb over the decal as if you were giving a fingerprint.  That gets rid of the extra water and presses the decal down on the model’s surface at the same time.  Then all that remains is to add a little decal setting solution such as SolvaSet or MicroSol, roll my thumb over it again and let it dry.

Even when you’ve used that method for years, sometime the decal ends up stuck on your thumb.  When that happened, all I did was add a drop of water to the surface, roll my thumb back over the correct location and the decal would wind up back on the model.

That stunt…for the most part…is something you want to avoid when you make your own.  While you can get away with it…and I’ve managed to do it…it is definitely not recommended.  Instead, after your new decal is in place, try what a lot of modelers do.  Use the corner of a paper towel to wick the excess water out from under the decal.  A cotton swab can work, too. 

Then, depending on the size of the decal and your nerve, you might want to gently roll your thumb over the decal as I described earlier.  If you don’t try that…or even if you do…the next step is to apply a thin coat of decal setting solution and then leave it alone until it dries.

As for decal solutions, every modeler has their favorite.  Some, like MicroSol, are pretty mild but should work well on DIY decals.  I prefer SolvaSet, but as hot as it is, I have found it necessary to keep a somewhat weaker solution in another bottle for use on decals that I’ve made.  There are plenty of other decal setters, so the best I can suggest is to run some tests with your preferred brands and see what works best."