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1/72 PG Millennium Falcon Build


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Randy,

The excellent work continues. I'm hoping you don't get snafu-ed, because of all the work

skipping you're doing on the build. I guess you'll just have to be extra careful, in checking

the process carefully so you don't end-up backing yourself into a corner with no way out.

Like they say... "better to check twice, before doing" than "not checking and cussing a

bunch more, than you'd planned!" Keep-up with the wonderful effort, you're doing great.

Edited by The Underdog
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Thanks for the encouraging words guys.

 

Underdog: Yes, I do have to refer back to the instructions during the build to be sure I don't get backed into a corner.  I studied them quite a bit before starting.  I also looked online for other builds to get some ideas.  So far so good.

 

Randy

 

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Update time.

 

I moved on to painting the base color on the upper and lower hull halves.  I started by adding the mandibles to the lower hull half.  I am using Vallejo Model Air 70.119 White Gray.  It sprayed on fairly well.  I did have a bit of a problem with paint building up on the edges of my airbrush nozzle.  I’ll have to look into that to see what I’m doing wrong.  I haven’t had that problem when spraying Tamiya paints.

49CC2bp.jpg

 

Here is the upper hull with a coat of white gray.  Sorry about the yellow tint of the pictures.  The white balance was not quite right.  Note that I painted the areas under the vents with Nato Black to give depth to the grills when those parts are applied.

Tk1Cntg.jpg

 

Here is one of the docking ports and the side details.

XLqG40V.jpg

 

I also sprayed the parts that can’t go on until some of the decals go on first.  I also sprayed some of the parts that are still attached to their trees.

VPG51tw.jpg

 

While the white gray cured I moved on to the laser cannon cockpits.  I started by adding some black to the laser cannon barrels.

5SskcdI.jpg

 

I then assembled and painted the cockpit seats.  They were pretty simple, the only colors needed were flat black and some silver.  There are supposed to be some lights on the targeting computer boxes but I couldn’t find a proper place to put them and the details don’t lend themselves to lights either.  They look pretty good nonetheless.

Ylt0370.jpg

 

Next I worked on the cockpit interiors.  Lots of panels, some gray, some light gray, some black and a couple red.  Then a bunch of silver for the ribbed hoses and lots of lights.  On some of the lights I over coated with transparent red or yellow.  The effect came out nice.  Some of my panel borders are not the straightest, but they are not too bad.  Here is the right side of the cockpit.

CbU1aJ9.jpg

 

And then the left side.

MLGtMGT.jpg

 

When you look at them from the angle of the front windows they look much better.  Here is a view looking at the right side.

PrxmrtS.jpg

 

And then looking left.

StrVbLm.jpg

 

Finally looking more straight down.

2Dj9pwa.jpg

 

I put the turbine blade part in to the engine cover section.  You can't see much in the picture, but it is a bit more visible when looking at it with your eyes.

IqHByzD.jpg

 

I had to go back and put some Elmer's glue behind the grills to give some additional support.  During the process of applying the detail parts and painting, I popped a couple of them loose and had to CA them back into place.  They should be more secure now.

 

It took a few days to finish the cockpits, so by this time the base coat on the rest of the Falcon was cured.  I got out my spray can of Tamiya TS-13 Clear to provide a smooth base to start applying the decals.  I needed to apply a few of the decals before I could finish the assembly.  Then I can finish applying decals and then start the weathering process.

 

I used the Tamiya TS-13 Clear spray on my 2001 Discovery One model recently and the base coat on it was also Vallejo paint.  In that case it was Model Color White Gray.  This time I had used Vallejo Model Air White Gray for the base coat.  After spraying the sections I went back to inspect them in case there were some places I had missed.  That was when I noticed that many areas now had alligator skin where the paint looked cracked and the surface was slightly rough.

Gr2xNKg.jpg

 

I’ve never had a problem with paint cracking like this before.  I checked online and sure enough, many others reported a similar thing happening when applying spray can Tamiya TS-13 Clear over Vallejo Model Air.  Well that was just great!  It will take me a while to figure out how to remedy this situation, so the next post may be a bit delayed.  Lesson learned.

 

I do have some Tamiya X-22 Clear Gloss that I can try.  It may work out better, since it is an acrylic.  My big mistake apparently is that the spray can clear is a lacquer that can have that type of effect on some acrylic paints.  Since X-22 is acrylic it might work better.  I’ll try it on a test piece first so I don’t end up with another disaster on my hands.

 

That’s it for now.  Thanks for looking.

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Is X-22 a true acrylic? I'm not super familiar with Tamiya paint line but it seems their acrylics are different in that they aren't truly water based like Vallejo paints. I would definitely test first like you said. 

 

this is coming out Sooooo good I hope you get the paint issues solved. Keep it up.

 

Bill

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as205 wrote:

I got out my spray can of Tamiya TS-13 Clear to provide a smooth base to start applying the decals.  I needed to apply a few of the decals before I could finish the assembly.  Then I can finish applying decals and then start the weathering process.

 

I used the Tamiya TS-13 Clear spray on my 2001 Discovery One model recently and the base coat on it was also Vallejo paint.  In that case it was Model Color White Gray.  This time I had used Vallejo Model Air White Gray for the base coat.  After spraying the sections I went back to inspect them in case there were some places I had missed.  That was when I noticed that many areas now had alligator skin where the paint looked cracked and the surface was slightly rough.

 

I’ve never had a problem with paint cracking like this before.  I checked online and sure enough, many others reported a similar thing happening when applying spray can Tamiya TS-13 Clear over Vallejo Model Air.  Well that was just great!  It will take me a while to figure out how to remedy this situation, so the next post may be a bit delayed.  Lesson learned.

 

I do have some Tamiya X-22 Clear Gloss that I can try.  It may work out better, since it is an acrylic.  My big mistake apparently is that the spray can clear is a lacquer that can have that type of effect on some acrylic paints.  Since X-22 is acrylic it might work better.  I’ll try it on a test piece first so I don’t end up with another disaster on my hands.

 

 

Randy,

I feel bad for your misfortune, with painting the Falcon. But, unless I'm mistaken - you

should always use the stronger paints first, and then you can apply the acrylics on top

of the Lacquer types, but not the other way around. Painting the model with an acrylic

base paint, you should have stayed with an acrylic clear coat or Future for preparing it

for the decals.

 

I hope you can find a fix/repair with the paint on the model. "My worse nightmare, with

painting a 400.00 dollar model kit and having it go bad!"

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Randy,

Also found this Paint Chart, which might be helpful with understanding the DO's and

DON'T's about using different types of paints.

 

Short compatibility matrix (thanks to Masataka Narita)

http://www.asahi.com/ajw/articles/13081323

 

____________ Over coat
Under Coat___________
 Acrylic  Enamel   Lacquer
                 Acrylic      OK   Maybe      NO
                 Enamel      OK      OK      NO
                 Lacquer      OK      OK      OK

 

The L E A (Lacquer Enamel Acrylic) Rule: Lacquers, enamels & acrylics can safety cover base

lacquers. Enamels & acrylics can cover enamels (but not lacquers!). Base coat acrylics can only

be covered by more acrylics.

Take this rule with a grain of NaCl as all untried paints (and combinations) are suspect.

(So says a victim…)

 

Around 1980, some manufacturers started introducing "acrylic" model paints. These paints were less toxic than the oil-based paints and (arguably) easier to clean up because many can be washed up with water (before the paint dries). Note: Though many acrylic paints can be cleaned up with water, the term Acrylic refers to the chemical composition of the base. It does not simply mean "water-based." There are some acrylics which use a water/alcohol blend as a solvent (notably Tamiya, Gunze Aqueous and ModelMaster) and some which use a lacquer-thinner-like solvent (Gunze MrColor). Sometimes these are described as not being "true" acrylics, but using that criteria as a determinant is not correct.

 

So now we had our "traditional" oil-based paints and the newfangled acrylics. In their wisdom, the marketing people decided that they needed to label the traditional paints "enamels" to differentiate them from the acrylics. "Enamels" are still the traditional paints we grew-up with.

 

Remember that not all acrylics are created equally and in many cases, are not cross-brand compatible. This means that the thinner for brand "A" may not work with brand "B" (but may work with brand "C"). Tamiya's acrylics are a peculiar animal. Though ostensibly water/alcohol based, they can be thinned with some types of lacquer thinners. Further (relating to the "general" guide above), even when used with regular acrylic thinner, Tamiya's acrylics can be over-painted with "normal" enamels with no apparent ill effects.

 

I hope you can understand this better than me. But, at the "end of the day" its probably

best to first test the paints on an inside part of the model - before applying them!

 

Edited by The Underdog
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Excellent work so far despite the paint challenges, will definitely be watching this build!

 

And I seriously think I might need to ferret one of these kits out for myself after seeing this thread... 🤔

Edited by Captain Mark
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Niart17 and Underdog:  I think the X-22 is not as hot as the TS-13 lacquer.  It claims to be an acrylic but it is not water based.  I will definitely test first.  I might just go ahead and get some Vallejo clear.  I do have Future that I have used on other models.  That might be another test.

 

I got away with it on my 2001 Discovery XD-1 model and got overconfident and it bit me.

 

I will definitely be doing some tests before clear coating again.  I have to figure out the best way to get rid of the alligator skin first.

 

Thanks,

Randy

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32 minutes ago, as205 said:

Niart17 and Underdog:  I think the X-22 is not as hot as the TS-13 lacquer.  It claims to be an acrylic but it is not water based.  I will definitely test first.  I might just go ahead and get some Vallejo clear.  I do have Future that I have used on other models.  That might be another test.

 

I got away with it on my 2001 Discovery XD-1 model and got overconfident and it bit me.

 

I will definitely be doing some tests before clear coating again.  I have to figure out the best way to get rid of the alligator skin first.

 

Thanks,

Randy

 

Randy,

What's done is done, and no one can wish it away. You have a task at hand, and you

need to find the best way of fixing it without damaging the model. I think I would try

to find the best way of striping the present paint off the model, without damaging it

anymore. Do some research on-line and get the best advice on removing the ruined

paint in a friendly manner.*(I've read where modelers have used Brake Fluid or Easy

Off to soak the model, and removing the paint without any damage to the plastic).

 

I think its very important to have a clear-mind about the process. In other words don't

be too hard on yourself for what happened. I'm sure you're not the first, and won't be

the last. "Wishing you much success and remain positive with your endeavor." I know

you'll find the best way to fix this... take your time and get it done!

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Sorry to hear about your paint issue hope you can get that resolved.  I haven't tried Easy Off but they say it works.   As for me one of the best paint removers I've used is Tamiya Lacquer Thinner as it doesn't harm plastic (as opposed to hardware store lacquer thinner which turned my cockpit into goo).   Dip microfibre cloth into some Tamiya Lacquer thinner and wipe off  a small section at a time.   For crevices you can probably use a soft toothbrush. One of the worst stuff for removing paint from Bandai plastic is Enamel thinner. My 1/144 Falcon developed tiny cracks on the plastic because of it which I had to repair with Tamiya glue.  They get accentuated by washes if left unfixed. 

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Underdog and crackerjazz: I haven't tried Easy-off either, but have heard that it works.  I don't have any Tamiya Lacquer thinner, but I might get some and try that.

 

It is a bit of a setback but I'll get it figured and get back on track.

 

Thanks,

Randy

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here is a short update.  After calming down and looking the model over, it was not quite as bad as it first looked.  Only the areas where I had applied the clear coat a bit heavier had cracked.

 

The Tamiya Lacquer thinner that I ordered came in and I started on some of the flat sections on the engine cover.  I dipped a cotton bud in the thinner and started rubbing it on the affected area.  It removed the rough texture quickly and then removed the paint and primer right down to the plastic.  The only problem is it caused the paint to ball up into globs that could clog up the fine detail in some of the parts.  I wanted to try something else before committing to the lacquer thinner.  I had some 90% isopropyl alcohol that I used to clean brushes.  I dipped a cotton bud in the alcohol and then started rubbing it on the part.  It slowly removed the rough texture and left smooth paint behind.  In places where I had to rub longer it also removed some of the paint but it didn't remove the primer.  The primer would eventually rub off if I continued rubbing.  Here is a pic.

1DL2OfB.jpg

 

With the alcohol working so much better, I went over the whole model and removed all the alligator skin.  I then let the model set for a few days for the paint to harden the paint.  Then I re-sprayed the model with the base coat.  It looks good.

 

 

It looks good and now I'll wait until I get some Vallejo clear coat.  I'll still test it on a scrap part first to be sure the Vallejo clear coat will not react with the paint.

 

Things look to be back to normal now.  More to come.

Edited by as205
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OK for whatever reason ARC Forums wont let me edit the last post with the picture of the newly painted hull.  I'll try adding it in this post instead.

pjqE7Ax.jpg

 

The paint job looks good now.  When the clear coat comes in we will see what happens.

 

Randy

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as205 wrote:

The Tamiya Lacquer thinner that I ordered came in and I started on some of the flat sections on the engine cover.  I dipped a cotton bud in the thinner and started rubbing it on the affected area.  It removed the rough texture quickly and then removed the paint and primer right down to the plastic.  The only problem is it caused the paint to ball up into globs that could clog up the fine detail in some of the parts.  I wanted to try something else before committing to the lacquer thinner.  I had some 90% isopropyl alcohol that I used to clean brushes.  I dipped a cotton bud in the alcohol and then started rubbing it on the part.  It slowly removed the rough texture and left smooth paint behind.  In places where I had to rub longer it also removed some of the paint but it didn't remove the primer.  The primer would eventually rub off if I continued rubbing.

 

Randy,

Great job finding a solution to the paint issues. Good to know, that 90% Isopropyl Alcohol

was part of the Fix for future references. Happy for you that you were able to make repairs

to the model, without inflicting further damage.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I got the Vallejo gloss and dull coat and started out by testing it on a wall of the boarding ramp.  It went on fine, maybe a little thick but it did not react with the underlying paint as expected.

 

I then took the boarding ramp part and applied the decals after giving it a clear coat.  The decals are rather thick as has been mentioned in many places by others.  There were some fine details that the decals needed to conform to on the boarding ramp.  This required several applications of Solvaset.  It really is much stronger that Micro Scale MicroSol.  You do not have much time after applying Solvaset to work with the decal before it becomes too soft to touch.  I let the Solvaset dry completely between applications and with each application I carefully eased the decal into the details.  Even so, some details were just a bit tall or complicated to really get it to snuggle down.  For those areas I either made a small slice with a sharp #11 blade or pricked it with a straight pin.  Then applied more Solvaset.  This seemed to work pretty well and the decals settled in nicely.  After they were dry I sprayed them lightly with the Vallejo dull coat.  It did not attack the decal.  When that had dried I then applied a bit heavier coat to get the flat surface I wanted.

 

Here is the boarding ramp with the decals and dull coat applied.

xx3k9Zt.jpg

 

With these tests behind me I moved on to the rest of the model.  I took the engine cover and gave it a clear coat and after that had cured I started adding the decals that would go under the engine flaps at the back.  While those were being snuggled down with Solvaset, I started adding the decals to the engine flaps.  When those were complete I finished the assembly of the engine cover by installing the engine flaps. Then I finished adding decals to the engine cover.  It looks good and is just waiting for its dull coat.  I’ll do that when I dull coat the rest of the upper hull.

AF5faNd.jpg

 

I then put the two hull halves together.  I got some foam padding and placed the Falcon upside down on the foam to begin adding decals to the lower hull.  When applying the larger decals that color some of the panels, I made sure to trim closely to decal and remove as much of the clear part as possible.  Some of the decals were stubborn with the raised details as expected and required some knife work to get settled down properly.  In some instances this resulted in some of the base coat showing through the cut.  I found that for the yellowish decals a mix of Vallejo Aged White and Desert Armour matched very well.  Dark Ghost Gray worked well with the dark gray panels.  A mix of German Red Brown and Red was a good match for the red panels.

 

Here is the back half of the lower hull with all it's decals applied.

tNqNang.jpg

 

Here is a closeup of the yellowish decal with the deep depressions that had to be cut.  The inside of the depressions are painted.

9vO8ZNu.jpg

 

In the photo below the raised section of the central gray decal was touched up with Dark Ghost Gray.

MhCfH3l.jpg

 

The turbo laser cockpit detail was much more visible than I thought.  Good.  Hopefully when the laser cannons are added it will still be that way.

P326AOh.jpg

 

In the process of finding the colors to match the decals, I first tried some Tamiya medium gray.  The color matched fairly well but it did not react well with the clear coat on the test piece at all.  My advice is if you start with Vallejo stick with it and don’t use them with any other brand of paint.  Better safe than sorry.

 

I know this might seem like a lot of work rather than just painting the individual panels and then chipping the paint.  That is probably true.  The only problem for me is that I have zero experience with paint chipping and I didn’t think that this would be the right model to learn on.  I will take on the chipping process in a future build, but for now the decals are working well even if it is a bit slow.  Others have done some GREAT looking studio exact models and they are beautiful.  I'm not going for a studio exact model, just a well done model that look similar to the movies.

 

That is it for now.  Half of the lower hull is done, maybe in the next week I can finish the decals and can move on to staining/weathering the Falcon.

 

Thanks for looking.

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As the underside decals were going on I looked ahead and found three places on the side walls where Bandai provided a decal to cover a section.  Those sections have too many fine raised details to attempt to get the decal to conform.  For those areas, I mixed up some paint (a mix of Vallejo Desert Sand and Aged White) that to my eye was a close match for the decal color instead of using the decal.

 

While this one on the left side might be workable, but why bother when I already have to paint two other sections.

p2epUKf.jpg

 

These two areas just have way too many fine details to try and get the decal to lay flat.

9S6v8hw.jpg

25vwPT5.jpg

 

Here are some photos of the lower side completed.

VuYish7.jpg

 

This photo shows one of the side panels that was painted instead of decals, as well as one of the cockpit decals that had do go over one of the small molded in details.

cwMd1V5.jpg

 

Here are some details on one of the mandibles that are covered by decals.

WU53Zqz.jpg

 

This large red area was three individual decals.

lGi4qkX.jpg

 

More decals on the next post.

 

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Now on to the upper hull.  Here is an overview.

vJA7TiL.jpg

 

Engine area decals.

JvOBkRD.jpg

 

These decals took some work to get to conform.  The dark gray one on the left required a bit of work next to the "A" arm.  The light gray one on the right took several applications of Solvaset and some knife work.  I'm still working on a couple of wrinkles that formed.  Hopefully I can get them smoothed out a bit more.

Q2FD0Hm.jpg

 

Application of Solvaset before applying the light gray decal helped it to conform to the fine rivet details.

pijfQzh.jpg

 

Here is a good view of some of the small decals.

2uY2RAb.jpg

 

This large decal surrounding the antenna mount was cut into three pieces at the panel lines to make it easier to apply.

4pbAWJb.jpg

 

Here is another detailed area near one of the docking ports that required several knife cuts.

RYrApik.jpg

 

This view shows one of the tiny decals that went on a pipe in the maintenance bay.  My fat fingers had a heck of a time getting it into place.

48ESCGI.jpg

 

In some areas, especially where the decal needs to cover some small complicated details, it helped to apply Solvaset to the area and then apply the decal.  When doing this you need to be particularly careful to not work the decal too much since the Solvaset will soften the decal quickly.

 

Final notes on the decal process in the next post.

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One thing to note with the decals is the antenna decals.  I applied them as Bandai specified in the instructions.

AD10Qki.jpg

 

But then I noticed that the photos I have of the 5-foot filming miniature didn’t match.  It seemed backwards.  The 5-foot photos are taken of the ESB version of the Falcon but the Bandai kit is the ANH version.  So I went to a copy of the Episode IV movie and looked for views of the back of the antenna in the film.  When I found one it matched the Bandai instructions.  Looking carefully at the newer photos of the 5-foot version they have the antenna mounted backwards and flipped 180 degrees from what is shown in the ANH movie.  I positioned the antenna in the flipped and rotated orientation and it did look like the photos of the 5-footer.  (Of course you can’t put it on the model that way since the parts are keyed to only fit one way.)  So I’d say go ahead and trust Bandai and their research of the ANH Falcon.

 

Decaling is finally finished.  Over 82 tiny decals besides the panel decals.  Are the decals thick?  Yes.  Are they difficult to get to conform to the fine details on the model?  Yes.  It also takes a lot of Solvaset.  They need using a needle and #11 knife blade and a small bit of paint to touch up.  But, in the end, I think they look good.

 

You may notice some patterns on the decals in the photos above.  These are exaggerated by the camera.  Can you see them with the unaided eye?  If you get very close you can.  But a normal viewing distance of say a foot, you can't see the printing pattern.  For me, that is fine.

 

When the decaling was finished, I went back through each call out in the instructions and compared that to the position on the model to be sure that I applied all the decals.  One reason I did this was because when I finished I had some extra decals.  I wanted to be sure that the extra decals were true extras and not something that I missed.  I did find two decals that I had missed in the call outs.  Also if you use the decals for the panels, you will have a few more extra decals.  Bandai provides tiny decals for some of the panels in case you decide to paint the panels instead of using the decals, so they have you covered either way.

 

Anyway, I’m finally done with the decals.  First I'll put on a clear coat to protect the decals.  Then I'll be moving on to weathering the Falcon.  Wish me luck.

 

Thanks for looking.  More to come.

Edited by as205
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  • 3 months later...

I finally finished the Perfect Grade Millennium Falcon.  In case you hadn’t noticed I’ve kind of been procrastinating on the weathering (three months!).  It always intimidates me a bit to weather a model.  I’m always afraid that I’m going to ruin it.  It usually turns out OK but the trepidation is still there.  The only real thing that caused me to really pause was that the pressure regulator on my air compressor broke and I had to get a new one.  Then there was the SA-5 Saturn I model that needed to be finished.  I also found another distraction by starting to learn Autodesk Fusion 360.  I’m planning on getting a 3D printer in the near future and I decided I needed to learn how to create 3D models.

 

Anyway, I finally got off top dead center and started weathering by making a 50/50 mix of Vallejo Black Gray and thinner.  I then sprayed that on the open maintenance bays and the battle damage.  I also sprayed some mist layers on the front sections of the mandibles.  Then I moved to the back and sprayed the engine grills and some of the vents in that area.  The vents on the top of the docking tunnels also got sprayed.

 

Then I started making the grime streaks on the Falcon.  I started with the bottom side first.  I was using the Tamiya Weathering Master pigment powders for the streaks.  I got off to a bad start as the pigments just would not stick very well to the Vallejo clear coat I had sprayed earlier.  I could only assume that the clear coat was just too slick to take the pigments properly.

 

VxQVMqN.jpg

 

I decided to give the bottom side a light covering of Vallejo Matte finish and try the streaking again.  This worked much better.  I also used the brush applicator to dirty up some other areas around vents and major hull intersections.  When the bottom was done I sprayed more clear matte to fix the pigments in place.

 

Here is an overall view of the lower hull half.

hRoUiRs.jpg

 

Here is a close up of the lower engine area.

5MRtzwg.jpg

 

Here is the lower turbo laser turret area.  As expected you can't see much detail in the laser cockpit.

gnSCVBw.jpg

 

Here is a view of the mandible area.

mTl4zHA.jpg

 

When matte coat dried I turned it over and gave the upper hull a light coat of matte and when it dried started applying pigments.  I applied it to the spine details on the cockpit tunnel and the side details between hull halves.  I kept applying it to different areas until I got close to the effect I was looking for.  I know I could have gone further, but I didn’t want to go overboard.  Then I sprayed another layer of matte to fix the pigments in place.  I’m happy with the result and hope others will like it.

 

Overall view of upper hull.

UNF4acJ.jpg

 

Here are the engine vents and details.

xfNRDJF.jpg

 

Docking and cockpit tunnels.

krRxMo2.jpg

 

Cockpit view.

Qlu5ad6.jpg

 

Front view with mandibles.

vE0dtdo.jpg

 

Antenna area with battle damage.

gZaLjlG.jpg

 

Docking port details.

wfdhspD.jpg

 

I then assembled the stand and put the Falcon on it.  It’s a bit wobbly as I’ve seen some others note.  I might have to search for something a bit more stable.

NbG4dvp.jpg

 

It is finally finished and I’m quite happy with it.  It is an expensive model but it is worth every penny in my opinion.  Now I have to decide what I might work on next.  In the meantime I’ll be learning Fusion 360.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

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