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Hellow fellow models!!!

My name is Thanos, I am a mechanics student from Athens, Greece. One of my passions are airplanes. I spend the most of my day in home, due to the corona virus outbreak. So, I started scrolling in YouTube and I found lots of aircraft modeling videos. I didn’t waste any time and I bought my first kits, (2 Eduard Spitfires (1/72) and a Kinetic F 16 Block 52+ HAF (1/48), which are actually my favorite aircrafts), paints and an H&S Ultra 2 in 1 airbrush. I had almost no experience in scale modeling (only a Revell A320 and a Revell Leopard 2A6, almost 5 years ago), but I have a lot of experience in general manufacturing, as I used to spend the most of my day in my university’s laboratories, prior to virus outbreak.

I had already made a thread about this project in jet modeling sector, but I decide to post also some pictures here. Anfortunately I don't have many pictures from the first stages of the manufacturing.

 

For this project I am using the following

  • Kinetic 48028 F-16C Block 52+ Hellenic Air Force  
  • Eduard 648013 F-16 seat for KINETIC
  • Eduard 648011 F-16 late wheels for KINETIC

 

I started with the cockpit, its construction was very easy. I used reference photos from a book called "Vipers under the skin". I used AK's 3rd gen acrylics for as base colors (Intense black as priming and then I sprayed 80% sky gray + 20% england grey as base color). For the details I also used some AKs 3rd gen, some TAMIYA acrylics and Humbrol Enamels. 

For the airbrushing I used the 0.2mm nozzle and for the detailing I used DaVinci NOVA 10/0 and Winsor and Newton 111 3/0 synthetic brushes.

 

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Then I worked with the inlet and the exhaust.

 

  • Inlet

I made some fitting testing und I painted it inside. I used white with very little sky gray, also I used Mr.Surfacer 1200 in order to fill some gaps. The overall fitting of the outer part was good but I used some puty to fill the gaps.

 

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  • Afterburner chamber and middle part:

 

As you can see in the pictures I tried to fill some flaws caused by the mould. At first I painted with AK's 3rd gen Intense White mixed with only a little of Sky Grey. Then I sprayed some smoke lines (following my referense pictures and my experience with the engine) with Intense Black, in the end I further weathered it with a mix (using again the refernce pictures) of Winsor & Newton Wintor Ivory Black and Abteilung Dark Rust oil paints (I used a No 8 Synthetic Flat Brush). I didn't thin the mix prior to the application (as this oils have relatively low viscosity), but I only used AK's odorless enamel thinner to remove the excess paint. I used the same processes for the afterburner chamber and the exhaust nozzle connector but I tried to make a heavier weathering, using two tones of the weathering mix (a blacker and a browner one).

 

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  • Exhaust nozzle:

For the inside part of the exhaust nozzle I used a mix of White and Medium Grey mix, trying to replicate the ceramic material. And I weathered it using different tones of the weathering mixture. The most difficult part was the exterior painting. As a base I painted it black and then with natural steel metalic color. I made a mix using black and medium grey to paint the smoke and then I tried to shade every fin using the previous weathering mix (Ivory Black and Dark rust). 

 

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  • Wheel Bay:

 

The assembly of the main wheel bay was relatively easy, also I made some parts of the electrical harness using copper cables. I made preshadowing using black colour and then I painted white. I used AK's paneliner for grey camo and Winsor & Newton Wintor Ivory Black & Raw Umber oil colours.

 

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  • Fuselage and CFTs

 

There weren't many fitting issues, but before the final assembly, I made lots of dry fittings. The biggest issue I had was with the gun cover, which had a slightly smaller curvature, after extensive use of putty and sanding, I think that I manage to fix it. The CFTs dry fitting was also really good, I didn't open holes and I positioned them using their silhouette. For the side nose parts I used some blu tack in order to adjust them, I haven't glued them since I am not sure if I must fix the nose first. (just to be sure I will add some bolts as counter-weight).

 

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The only major problems where those marked on the picture but I managed to repair them.

 

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Since I am new to the hobby, I would like to hear your opinion about my project. 

 

 

 

Edited by iceman98
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Nice. I'm curious how will You rate the kit, after it's done.  I'm building a Kinetic Polish F-16C, but I've not yet painted the intake, or anything else for that matter. Gun insert isn't the best part of this kit. Perhaps You could post some slightly bigger pictures? I've read the nose panels fit is horrible, but You've seem to managed them nicely.

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I would fit the radome before fitting the side inserts, this will allow you get a better profile all round. You may need to add some packing under the inserts to stop them sinking below the surrounding areas(does that make sense?).

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Makes perfect sense. I often used blue tack when when closing the gear covers on in-flight build. But it's easier to just cut out gear well and glue them from inside. Can't really apply this technique to the F-16 nose though.

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2 hours ago, Thadeus said:

Makes perfect sense. I often used blue tack when when closing the gear covers on in-flight build. But it's easier to just cut out gear well and glue them from inside. Can't really apply this technique to the F-16 nose though.

 

You can also use it in this case. I added some and then I positioned the part. I will post some pictures tomorrow. 

Also, I will try to change the images with the ones from Flickr. 

I don't have the experience to rate this kit, I am sure that I will build more Kinetic F 16s in the future. (I have already ordered one)

 

Of course, it has some fitting issues (from the biggest one):

Nose: you must use something to prevent sinking like @scotthldr said, blu tack seems like working fine, but I haven't glued them yet

Fuselage: Near the wing slats and flaps and also near the horizontal stabilizers’ attachment point, with a lot of putty and sanding everything was solved

Exhaust Nozzle: The nozzle consists of four major parts: the nozzle itself, the afterburner chamber (I know that consists of 4 parts itself), a connection part for the nozzle and the afterburner chamber and an outer part. In my kit for an unknown reason there is a 1mm gap between the nozzle and the outer part (I don't feel the need to change the nozzle with a resin kit since its well detailed but I must find a way to solve it).

Inlet: It has some issues with the outer part, but nothing serious you can fill it with putty

Worth mention

The fitting between the CFTs (You will probably use them since Polish air force uses Block 52s equipped with them) and fuselage: I didn't use the holes designed for it, but I used reference pictures and also their actual silhouette, everything came up nicely, but only after a lot of tries and some sanding on the CFTs, there are no large gaps, but you should be careful.

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Today I started the assembly of the nose section.

 

I used blu tack to position the side parts. With the addition of blu tack I prevented the sinking of the parts.

 

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Then I placed the parts and I prepared them for putty application using masking tape. I tried to have a smooth transition on the sides and I left a large gap on the bottom.

 

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I used an old blade on my hobby knife to apply the putty. In order to properly fill the gaps I applied putty 4 times.

 

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Much better than before....

 

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Then I started sanding them, I used grit 600, 1500, 3000 wet sandpapers soaked with AK Odourless Thinner (I believe that you can use also white spirit or turpentine), thinner helped me to achieve a smooth result really fast.

 

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Finally I reopened the filled holes and rescribed the panel lines

 

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  • 8 months later...

Hello and happy new year!!!

 

Hope you are safe during these very difficult circumstances. Unfortunately last months were difficult for me and my time was limited, that's why I haven't posted for a while. 

 

During Christmas holidays I was able to buy the camo colours and continue my project, by finishing the new resin (Aires) PW F100 Nozzle (Maybe I will add some weathering). I purchased because the stock nose had a huge gap, that couldn't get fixed, but turned to be a very nice upgrade. 

 

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I used AK Xtreme Metal Jet Aluminum and Jet Exhaust for the exterior and a Combination of AK 3rd gen White and Grimy Grey for the interior's ceramic coating. Finally I weathered it using Raw Umber oil colour.

 

But from now on I call this project as a double build, because I got as a present the Kinetic F 16 C/D Block 52+ Polish Air Force Tiger Meet kit (48076), alongside with some decals and resin partse (nozzle and seats). So as the F 16C is almost ready for priming and painting, I decided to start the second one and paint them together. The second kit will eventually become a 335sq F 16D Block 52+adv, caring the (Spoiler ALERT) 023 serial number. I found out that the most parts needed for the conversion are included in the kit and with some minor modifications will look like a Greek F 16 Block 52+adv.

 

The second build is until now really straight forward, as I now the kit's problematic parts and the progress during a few hours is huge. Until now the biggest task was to find clear pictures and modify the dorsal spine. I started by sanding down the small outlet on the starboard side of the spine. Then I glued the correct inlets, outlets and antennas. Finally I placed the flair dispensers and filled some gaps with putty.

 

 

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When I opened the second kit I was surpised be the differently coloured upper back fuselage part. I don't know why Kinetic made this change for this kit, but the connection between the front and the rear fuselage parts seems much better than the one in the first kit.

 

My work on the F 16D continued with the cockpit. During it' painting I experimented with different types of colours. I used acrylic Tamiya XF 1 as a base and XF 19 as interior colour, I found that airbrushing with Tamiya acrylics was really easy and the result much better, than the first cockpit in which I used AK's 3rd gen acrylics. But I had problems, while painting with a brush, Tamiya XF 1 dried really fast and when I used thinner the coverage was low, so I ended using AK's 3rd gen Intense Black colour, which offered much better coverage and drying time. I painted the cockpit details using various enamel and arcylic colours, as well as some really good referense pictures. Finally I used a new technique to make the displays more realistic, after I painted them Black I used Tamiya X 19 smoke, which made the black colour more vivid and offered a glossy finish, Tamiya X 22 was used in the other instrument gauges.

 

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The current progress on both vipers.

 

20210110_213126

 

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