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OH-6A Revell Cayuse 1970 1/32

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Hello Dekon 70,
I built this kit years ago. I was 16 to 17 years old and I had just discovered the Squadron Signal In Action books in particular the N ° fourteen, Gunslinger In Action and for the first time I added scratch build details based on the photos of the book. At the time I was very proud of the result but since I discovered ARC and I learned some tricks and it would really be necessary that I re build one.
Here is the result







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  • 3 weeks later...

If you're doing a OH-6 I recommend the U.S. Army Silver Eagles team.



I saw them perform in 1973 at Burke Lakefront airport when we took a C-5 to the show from Dover.

With things going on the crowd didn't know about, mostly and fortunately, it was some three days.

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For more on the subject, I can recommend the book "Dancing Rotors", a history of U.S. Army helicopter teams. It was written by Bell test pilot  Ned Gilliand, a member of the team in the '50s...when they flew H-13s, H-19s...and rather surprisingly, H-25s.

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On 6/20/2020 at 5:44 PM, dekon70 said:

I do not want to hijack this thread, but that looks great Patnab!



all comments and discussions are greatly welcomed!


can't wait for the El Loacho decals...  that's pretty cool.



Edited by Bounce
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On ‎7‎/‎11‎/‎2020 at 8:44 AM, hawkwrench said:


What did you use for the hose?



Hello Tim,
The hose?
Guess you're talking about pipe running on the floor of the dio?
Until recently I was the owner of a Jeep. On the front left fender I had installed an original blackout headlight made in USA from 1943.



But here in France it is strictly forbidden to have operational military blackout lights on a vehicle. So I had to cut the power cable. Of course, in 1943 the electric cables were not plastic but were braided in wire. I kept this cable in my spare box and I used it for the kerozen power system on this dio. It's probably not accurate but I liked the aspect of the cable.





The valve is made in scratch with sections of brass tubes and washers


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23 hours ago, Bounce said:

sweet POL pad!

Pink team refueling
Here is a complete view of the dio
Yes, I know, the helipads are much too close but if I had respected the scale the dio would have been much too big



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17 minutes ago, Bounce said:

loach: TAKING FIRE!! kicks smoke out the door and dumps the nose.


cobra: Rolling HOT on your smoke!






Hello Bounce
Have you ever read this book?




If you are interested in aeroscouts in Vietnam this book is fascinating. As soon as I started reading it I couldn't put it down!

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I did some floor and door work...having fun.  🙂









using spare parts from sprue collection or leftovers/junk box.


Is that supposed to be belted ammo boxes on the rear firewall on the original Revell cayuse rear bulkhead?  


wellp, they're moved now...









scratch match tater tranny



Edited by Bounce
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I've updated the first post to show poorgress.  or progress whichever way you guys may see it.  🙂 


Sometimes I see model builds here so fantastic I wonder if I'm on the right site!  heheh.



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anyone know where the grease pencil "X" would go approximately for pilot reference inside on windshield/canopy bubble for the minigun point of aim/impact?  I was considering scribing an X with exacto and then filling with black wash...


what is a good way to put that white antennae? line on inside of bubble canopy?



Edited by Bounce
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Hi Bounce,
Nice progress so far.
Speaking of the rear bulkhead, the two "boxes" you removed are not ammo boxes, they are poooor representations of the two rear seats in folded position against the bulkhead.



The bulkhead has another problem. The kit part is flat but there should be an angle. In fact this line of rivets highlighted in red gives the exact shape of the bulkhead. So I made it completely out of plastic card :



About the floor. The floor of the kit is flat from the cockpit to the cargo compartment but there should be an angle as on the red line :



It is important to respect this angle otherwise the front part of the cabin will be too thin and the first bulkhead will not be high enough to install the anti torque pedals :









Of course, it will be necessary to add a triangular piece of plastic card to the front door step to arrive at the same level and inclination as the cockpit floor :





I also redone the central bulkhead which lacked détails :



Another problem is that the red and green position lights on the sides of the fuselage are positioned too low. They should be positioned just in the middle of two horizontal lines starting from the two hinges of the engine covers:


The wrong position of the right navigation light resulted in the wrong position of the fuel cap which is engraved much too low :



Once repositioned, it will be possible to represent the pipe connecting the fuel cap to the fuel cell located under the floor of the cargo compartment :



At the end, after wasting a lot of time correcting flaws here and there, I ended up completely redoing the interior of the fuselage. It seemed a lot easier :



For the moment I am stuck in my build because I need to order Archer embossed rivets decals. The interior of the cabin is as riveted as the outer surface of the fuselage!
Happy modeling



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That is why I recommended the Dragon OH-6 kits.  All the corrections you have made are already correct on the Dragon kits.  They are quite nice.  The newer Kitty Hawk AH/MH-6J/M kits are even better.  Don't get me wrong, yours is looking great, but to me, its just not worth all the effort to update the old Revell kit.

Edited by HeavyArty
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I have an Italeri, 2 Dragons and 2 more Revell kits.  The world is my oyster!  🙂


definitely going to do the nicer kits last while I try to bring skill level up to some of the builds I'm seeing.  the holy shiite that's a sweet build level.

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On ‎8‎/‎9‎/‎2020 at 8:31 PM, HeavyArty said:

That is why I recommended the Dragon OH-6 kits.  All the corrections you have made are already correct on the Dragon kits.  They are quite nice.  The newer Kitty Hawk AH/MH-6J/M kits are even better.  Don't get me wrong, yours is looking great, but to me, its just not worth all the effort to update the old Revell kit.


Hello Gino,
Of course, I totally agree with you. Dragon's OH-6A is a much better starting point for building a beautiful Cayuse. So why waste time on this Revell antique. That's why for me :


  • A friend of mine gave me this kit and they will be very happy to see it finished
  • Starting from basic materials, plastic card, plastic or brass tube, copper wire, lead etc. and succeeding in reproducing a complete cockpit is one of my greatest pleasure in model making. I love that !
  • In addition, there is a kind of challenge for me. This kit is my first model that I tried to improve with scratch details. I was around 17 years old and now 62! I wonder if I've made any progress in modeling and if my the new Cayuse will be better or worse than the first! ? LOL!


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This kit is one year older than I am.  That's something special.


this model came out of the mold when Scouts were still taking fire in SEA


and my goal is to outbuild every modeller on the internet and become #1 model builder in the universe.  Eyes will gaze upon my work and tear up due to the beauty and intricacies.  People will point and say here comes bounce....that guy is the world's greatest modeller.  Just a matter of time.



Edited by Bounce
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the parts which cause me the most problem to reproduce are the seats.
In reality, they consist of a tube frame over which a canvas is stretched and this canvas is slightly transparent :



To represent this look, I considered making a copy of the seats in clear resin, then painting just the edges with a regular brush to simulate the tube frame and covering the rest of the clear seat with very thinned gray paint with my airbrush to simulate the slightly transparent canevas.
If anyone has a great idea to replicate these seats, let us know!


It is also possible to remove the backrest and keep only the seat cushion. These canvas seats did not protect pilots from ground fire at all and many crews replaced them with bulletproof plates taken from chikenplate body armor. These pieces are easier to reproduce in scratch



By the way, sorry for my poor English, I hope you can understand me................



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