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dsahling

Putty hard enough to scribe/punch rivets?

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So I'm working on a project that currently has me redoing a lot of panel lines and rivets.  I have a test piece going right now with milliput where I smeared it over some rivet lines and then used mr color lacquer thinner to "thin"/"cut" it with using a vigorous back and forth motion with a q tip.  I know milliput is great in that it dries rock had and can be scribed/riveted over once its fully cured, but I'm worried with the current method I used that the milliput won't completely fill in the rivets, maybe it'll need another 1-2 applications after it dries?

 

Does anyone know of a good putty that you can scribe/rivet well once its cured?  How about Tamiya white putty?  I normally use CA glue for this type of work, but this involves a larger area of rivets I need to fill in (flat surface) and isn't really that feasible as it could result in grooves/warping/uneven surfacing.

 

Thoughts, suggestions, ideas?

 

Thanks

 

Dan

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I've been using Aves: Apoxie Sculpt. It is a two part epoxy putty similar to Milliput, but comes in separate jars instead of the Milliput log that tends to dry out. It is a very fine pigment putty that smooths and thins with plain water. Has a working time of about 3 hours, fully cures in 24 hours. Dries rock hard. Can be sanded down to a very fine feathered edge. Extremely strong bonding. Can be scribed like Milliput.  They also have a Super White Apoxie that has a shorter working time (one hour).

Another product they make is called Apoxie Paste. Same as Apoxie Sculpt but with a thinner consistency, more like batter. Its a little harder to work with as it is a challenge to measure out equal amounts of the two components (read sticky, messy, glop). I think, though, that the regular Apoxie Sculpt would suit for you needs.

I'm surprised you use Leveling thinner to thin Milliput as it is water soluble.

 

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I have recently become a big fan of "Kit sprues dissolved in Tamiya extra thin cement" as a filler. At the beginning of a build I take a small glass jar, put in some pieces of the sprues together with some liquid cement and then put a lid on it and let it dissolve over night. The advantages: 1.) you can apply it with a brush and control viscosity by the amount of cement you add.

2.) It literally melts with the plastic and has the same hardness which makes it perfect for sanding/scribing

3.) I found it to cure faster than other puttys except for super glue. It can be sanded within an hour or so (I would still wait over night) while I had problems with other putties and shrinkage even after a week or so drying time.
4.) as it also has the same color as the surrounding plastic one can skip the the "shoot some paint on the seam to check the filling/sanding work". Phil Flory has a tutoria on youtube regarding this form of putty although contrary to him I like to use the kits own plastic because of point number 4 above.

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