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1/48 Tamiya F-14D Super Tomcat VF-2

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Since I'll be doing her for my 3rd 1/18th scale Tomcat, I've been doing a lot of research on her. She was pretty "weather worn" and had a lot of corrosion touch ups. She wore the standard three tone TPS scheme.  Bottom FS 36375 Lt. Ghost Gray, forward nose section area, FS 36320 Dk. Ghost Gray and, the top was FS 35237 Medium Gray.

The wing pylon is Lt. Ghost Gray.

The forward aerodynamic noses, of the forward Phoenix pallets, are Lt. Ghost Gray as well.

Spray that whole pallet LGG, then tape off the nose section and, weather the rest of the pallet. This will give you your color variation, the fairings are just cleaner than the rest of the pallet.

You can't always rely on the kit instructions to be 100% accurate, this is why we do research for our builds. Tamiya's 1/32nd Tomcat instructions tell you it's ok to load the GBU-24 side by side, which is totally incorrect.




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Thanks Mr. Happy!

Thank you Steve for the tip. So I will stick to LGG for the wing pylons and will do the weathering of the phoenix pallets as you suggest. I think it will look good and realistic looking at some of the VF-2 plane photos.
So next I was working on the walkways and came up with this idea to use Tamiya glue and sprinkle it with a WOW fine powder which I previously used for my Merkava IV tank. It was a little bit risky business to put a glue on top of a painted model, but I think it came out pretty good. It is maybe bit too thick layer comapring to real photos, but I can live with that. I like it more then just decals.










I have also adjusted and finished the panel painting on top of the body and quite happy with the result. I am not sure whether it is 100% realistic for this VF-2 scheme, but I really like it. I've got inspired by "crackerjazz" and his amazing painting job of the twin F-14A build.
The plan now is to put a gloss coat on this, then decals, another gloss coat, panel line wash, final semi-gloss coat and very finally salt weathering to make it a bit dirty. I have big hopes this will look good, but never did this before, so one can only hope! 🙂
Thanks for watching.
Edited by tomfomes
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  • 1 month later...

Happy New Year everyone!


I made some progress on the Tomcat, almost all decals are placed now.










I have tried salt weathering technique on the bottom part of horizontal stabilizers. This was the first time I was doing it and it didn't come out exactly as I expected, but I can live with it. Going to try something different on the rest of the model. Lets see how it ends...












I have finally starded to work on the F110-GE-400 engine and the engine exhaust nozzles from Eduard. Here is the result so far. For the engine parts I have used Tamiya acrylics XF-56 (Metallic gray), X-10 (Gun metal), X-13 (Metallic blue) and enamel black wash. I am quite happy with the result.








For the exhaust nozzle internal part, I have painted this with Tamiya acrylic XF-2 (Flat white) and covered with a layer of future. After this I havemade a masking tape stripes to cover parts of the nozzle (see below photo) and sprayed a black enamel wash thru the nozzle few times. Again not exactly what I was looking for, but I will leave it as is for this model. 








Thanks for watching. Hopefully I'll have some more updates soon.





Edited by tomfomes
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Thanks Steve!


Here's the progress on the internal parts of the engines and presentation how it looks like assembled.




This is a little tool I made from paper to help me paint the black straight lines inside the exhaust. 




Worked out quite nicely.




Exhaust nozzle with a bit of extra black enamel wash:




And the whole thing put together.






Thanks for watching!




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Thank you very much Andy! 


So today I have finished the engines exhausts, finally! 🙂


I have started with painting the dark side. I have used Tamiya Acrylics XF-1 (Flat Black) and XF-56 (Metallic Grey) in a ratio approximately 10:1.




After this I have masked off the thin areas with the masking pieces provided by Eduard Brassing 1/48 F-14D Exhaust nozzles kit.




The rest of the exhaust nozzles that had to be covered, I have masked with Humbrol maskol, applying carefully with toothpick. I love this product, because it doesn't dry straightaway and allows you to fill in the area very nicely.




After this I have apinted the rest as per Tamiya instructions, with Tamiya acrylics X-32 (Titanium silver) + X31 (Titanium gold) in ratio approximately 1:2. The black areas of the internal exhaust parts I have weathered using MIG Ammo Jimenez Pigment (Track Rust) to give it a rusty effect, as per reference photo, see below.




And here is the result. 




Thanks for watching.






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Thank you very much!


I am thinking of applying some wash/weathering on top of the exhausts, but I am afraid to ruin the metallic finish.


Does anyone have a recommendation on how to do this?




Edited by tomfomes
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On 1/13/2022 at 4:22 AM, tomfomes said:

I am thinking of applying some wash/weathering on top of the exhausts, but I am afraid to ruin the metallic finish.

Does anyone have a recommendation on how to do this?


I have the same problem on weathering metallic finishes (for bare metal areas).  I've tried applying a gray or smoke wash but it doesn't  spread well unless you kill off the sheen with some matte coat.  And the wash color doesn't blend well with the metallic finish and ends up covering it.  I've tried mottling on a different shade and sheen of metal color.  This blends a bit better.  Others suggest pigments but I've never tried it.  I've also seen Doogs' video here where he applied some gray mottling but it goes on before the metallic finish.

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If I may suggest, I would not weather the exhausts, they weren't weathered in real life and were fairly clean. They were sprayed with a light coat of light weapons oil when a daily was done so they would have a light sheen to them unless the bird had flown that day.

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Thanks for the tips gents. What I did so far: I have used AK Interactive Weathering pencils to lighten the overlap parts of the exhaust nozzle as these seemed too black. I have also added some black to the parts that are rusty. Here's the result:




Now more interesting part. I have started weathering/washing on the top of the plane. Here are some results of few hours breathing chemicals. Originally I wasn't planning too much weathered plane, but I must say I am quite happy with the result so far.


























Thanks for watching.




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The wings got some salt weathering after the initial panel wash with black enamel wash, but I have only sprayed it over with the main color (Grey blue).




This gave it interesting glossy vs flat effect.




This is what I have used for wash on the whole thing - MIG AMMO Black & Dark wash. 




First I have applied the wash liquid on the panel lines. Then I left it to dry and wiped it using cotton swabs and tissue. After all was wiped, I have started to apply the washing liquid again, but now only inside the panel blocks. I have then tapped it with used cotton swab until it created a random texture (similar to salt weathering effect). When I was happy with the texture, I have dried it a bit by pusing gently a tissue on the wet surface.








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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all,


not much progress done last week. Still working on the wash/weathering of the bottom of the plane.


I need an advice. I am now deciding what loadout to add on the plane:

Do you know what would be the typical loadout during the final VF-2 cruise?

Do you have some information about this cruise just out oif curiosity?


Thank you for help!






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Typical load outs back then were two or four GBU-12 or GBU-16's with at least one AIM-9M Sidewinder (sometimes two), tanks, LANTRIN Pod and sometimes either a Phoenix or Sparrow on the left wing (Sta 1B).


They did a GBU-16/GBU-31(v)2 load out a few times but from what I remember they did a lot of GBU-12/16's.


Here's few links that might be helpful.








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This is what I have saved, since I'll be doing her at some point in 1/18th scale, for VF-2 loadouts during "OIF",

Stations 1A and/or 8A = AIM-9L/M.

Station  1B = AIM-54C ( these were still carried on occasion ).

Stations 3 and 6 = GBU-10/12/16 or, JDAMS or, MK-82's.

Stations 2 and 7 = Fuel tanks.

Station 8B = LANTIRN pod. ( NOTE: If TARPS was carried (Sta. 5), the jets were often seen loaded with two MK-82's on Stations 3and 6. The LANTIRN pod was left loaded on the jet but, couldn't be utilized because of the TARPS pod.

Hope this helps.



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Thanks for useful information guys. I will review this and make a decision. Soon there will be time to start working on the loadout.


Finally I have made some progress. Finished the weathering of the bottom part as well:




I had a small disaster, when one of my decals got damaged with masking tape. I have fixed it, even though it's not totally invisible. Here's the pre-photo:




For the bottom of the tanks I tried using some of the AK weathering pencils and quite like the outcome:




After the weathering was done, I have applied one last clear coat - Tamiya Acrylic Semi-Gloss Clear and then started to put the whole thing together.






Here's the post photo of the fixed decal.. not great not terrible...




Like those exhausts finally mounted.




Now the plan is to put this thing on legs. I have started to work and almost finished the main landing gear. I have added few extra details using evergreen plastic rods and some metal wires. I didn't go too crazy with the details, as most of the landing gear will be covered anyway.








First I have primed the gear with AK 3rd gen White primer and then painted with Tamiya Acrylic gloss white.






After that I have applied coat of Future and started weathering and painting the details. For wash I have used MIG black enamel wash. I have also added few extra decals from Fightertown technical set.










Testing how it looks like in place:




ANd with wheel mounted 🙂






Thanks for watching.



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Looking great, Tom!   I had a similar decal mishap.  Part of a Beware of Blast decal peeled off with the mask. I used to think the glosscoat protects decals like glass on a tabletop.   But I realize now there's just a thin coat to withstand peeling.  And over decals it's clinging only to the decal itself so it's really only as strong as the decal adhesive.

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  • 4 weeks later...

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