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So, I’m getting close to clear coating my 1/48 scale Hornet. I only have to put my landing gears and such on. That brings me to my current dilemma. 
 

I invested in a Paasche H airbrush. I was planning on airbrushing the clear coat (Microscale Industry Flat) on to protect the paint job and model. The only problem is that I’m worried that protruding parts (landing gears, etc) may be hard to clear coat with an airbrush when I go to clear coat the entire F/A-18E Hornet. I’m not as worried about the the main body of the Hornet as it’s mostly flat; the landing gears are a different story. How do you all go about making sure everything is clear coated with so many small parts? Any tips and/or steps to recommend that you use for your own models?

 

sorry if this is a dumb question. This is the first time I’ll be clear coating a model (airbrush or not). I’m wanting to make sure that all my hard work on the model isn’t ruined by a clear coat gone awry. All advice you could give will be greatly appreciated. 

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Equally important, clear coating protects the decals.

 

I install the LG and other sticking-out bits after I've applied the clear coat. I will spot apply clear coat to deal with any unintended shiny spots.

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It's possible to spray complicated sticky-out bits properly on the model. Just use low pressure and keep hitting it from every possible angle. You are better off moving the airplane and keeping the airbrush still because it's awfully easy to spill the contents of the airbrush cup on the model by moving it too much (I learned the hard way so you don't have to). The larger the model the harder that is, so I'd also do the landing gear separately first in 1/48. You may need to spray again after the gear is installed to cover any glue showing from installing the gear and doors.

 

If you've never sprayed a flat before, try it on a scrap model first. You need to find out how much to spray to get the flatness level you want without the fogging you will get if you spray too much. I recommend spraying multiple thin coats.

 

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I’ll definitely try what you suggested about moving the model rather than the airbrush. Ty! I have sprayed small parts with my Paasche H, but have not sprayed anything that couldn’t fit in the palm of my hand. So this will be a definite learning curve. 
 

I’m definitely going to be trying my technique (as suggested) on a scrap model pieces I have from a long time ago. Hoping I can figure it out without too many problems. 
 

quick question I have that I forgot to ask. Do you guys clear coat canopies or other clear plastic pieces? 

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1 hour ago, Historybuff said:

Do you guys clear coat canopies or other clear plastic pieces? 

No! Masking tape on clear plastic comes off last! For some kits, the clear plastic bits can go on last. This had both

badangel-decals-done1.jpg

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4 hours ago, Historybuff said:

I was seeing many conflicting opinions on whether or not to clear coat plastic pieces.

 

You can coat clear parts in gloss finish (and it might help make clear parts more clear), but flat will turn them opaque. That would usually be terrible, but there are occasions you want that. If you are making a house for a diorama with lights behind the window but you don't want people to see inside the house you can cover them in a flat coat to frost them.

 

 

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On 7/5/2020 at 9:49 PM, spejic said:

You can coat clear parts in gloss finish (and it might help make clear parts more clear), but flat will turn them opaque.

Thanks for the info. Good to know if I ever want to make the clear parts deliberately opaque. 

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Also be aware that the undercarriage,  the inside of undercarriage doors along with air brake wells etc... will be gloss finish, whilst the main airframe will be matt.

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5 hours ago, Napalmakita said:

I do the main aircraft body, landing gear and weapons/stores as separate builds then bring them together in final assembly.  I'm guessing this is standard for the majority here.  

 

Ditto

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On 7/5/2020 at 8:19 PM, Historybuff said:

Got it. I was seeing many conflicting opinions on whether or not to clear coat plastic pieces. I appreciate it. I trust this site much more than google searches. 

I dip my clear canopies, lenses, etc in a small cup of Future, then let them dry for a few weeks (Future floor wax, search the forums for info on it). I do this at the very start of the model, it's usually the first thing I do. Future helps clear parts look more clear, I suppose it fills in micro imperfections.

 

 I once tried to spray Future on a canopy and it fogged it, looking like heavy rain on a windshield. (luckily it's removable with isopropyl alcohol)  Other clear coats sprayed on will definitely fog clear parts.

 

 

Edited by dmk0210
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14 hours ago, dmk0210 said:

I dip my clear canopies, lenses, etc in a small cup of Future,

 

I do this too (as I am sure many do). One hint though. Wash the clear parts in warm soapy water, rinse completely and allow to dry completely. Do not touch the clear surfaces again until after the future dip has been done and dried. Surface greases from manufacturing or handing will interfere with the Future adhering.

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After dipping in Future, put the part on a paper towel to absorb excess and then cover with a box or something to ensure dust doesn't alight on your clear and sticky bit of plastic.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Another nice feature with using Future is that you can apply a transparent acrylic paint over it to tint the part. And if it does not come out the way you want it, you can soak the part in a cup of regular Windex (with ammonia) to remove all of the paint and Future so you can start over again. I've used this method several times to tint canopies, and it worked well. Even when I screwed up the first time and didn't get the tint I wanted and had to start over again. A few minutes soaking in Windex, and you are back to a clear plastic part.

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