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Sweden’s J35 colors questions


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Eduard's issue of the kit specify Mr Color no 80 Dark Blue and no 304 Olive Drab for the upper surfaces, with no 31 Dark Gray for the lower surfaces.  The alternative matches in the Gunze Aquaeous colours are H35, H304 and H82 respectively.  I don't know how well these match the real colours though.

 

Note that the colours on the upper surfaces tended to fade quite a bit.

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The Mr.Paint MRP-175 Swedish Blue-gray is spot on for the under surfaces, but as Mstor says, the colors for the top are a bit too dark from the bottle. With some work and color mixing, it is still possible to get a good result out of the Mr.Paint colors for the top.

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20 hours ago, Najk said:

The Mr.Paint MRP-175 Swedish Blue-gray is spot on for the under surfaces, but as Mstor says, the colors for the top are a bit too dark from the bottle. With some work and color mixing, it is still possible to get a good result out of the Mr.Paint colors for the top.

 

I also have the old Humbrol International colors for these. I haven't compared them to MRP's. I'm scared to open the tins. They must be 20 or 30 years old now and look to be in pristine condition. I would hate to hasten their demise.

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This guy...

 

http://bjornsmodeller.blogspot.com/2015/07/saab-j-35j-draken-hasegawa-148-2015.html

 

Who is a pretty well known Swedish modeller used Mr Hobby paints to give his J35F a pretty convincing finish.

 

He used H 52 Olive drab lightened with H 337 Light Grey and some H309 Olive green to create the dark green color. 

For the navy blue he used a number of different paints starting with a base consistning of H 54 Navy Blue and H 55 Midnight blue. Both of these were lightened with H 337 respectively. He also added some turqoise paint to get the greenish hue (probably using H46 Emerald).

 

The important thing to remember is that the navy blue on the Swedish Drakens weathered fast and heavily. The more weathered the more "greenish" it became. Almost turning into an "aotake-color" if you know what I mean. 

 

Another thing to note is that if you want to be really accurate, the blue color should be glossy and the green should be matte. Don´t ask me why this is but its very evident on the 1:1 A/C. As you can see on the freshly painted aircraft on the pictures below.

 

DSC_0788.JPG

 

]DSC_0791.JPG

 

Best regards from Sweden!

 

Emil

 

 

Edited by nr1forme
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58 minutes ago, jenshb said:

Thanks for the link Emil - the IPMS Stockholm forum was quite enlightening as well.  Doesn't say what colour(s) he used for the lower surfaces though...

 

Jens

 

Cheers Jens! 

 

I dont know about Björn but...

 

For the underside I´d preshade and mottle with a dark blue and then use RLM 65 or 76 from Mr. Hobby as a starting point. These are pretty much spot on for the light blue. I know some people like to use Tamiya XF-66 aswell. But in my opinion this is waaay too dark and too grey. 

For enamels I´d start with Humbrol 23 or 87 and then darken/lighten to taste.

 

The color for the 1:1 A/C was called 058 Mörkt Blågrå (058 Dark Blue-Grey). And this was used from the 1940-ies all the way up until the 1990-ies.

In 1966 they changed the gloss levels of the paint from gloss to semigloss, but the shade was pretty much the same. 

 

Watch this photo of an old SAAB B17 painted with 058 on the underside and you´ll see the similarity to the RLM colors. 
https://www.instagram.com/p/CAUkpQBBsf1/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet

 

This Hawker Hunter also has 058 on it´s belly...
https://www.instagram.com/p/CBlcSlhFPDJ/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet

 

Also, remember that a large portion of the underside is natural metal on the Draken. This part of the aircraft is usually very grimy and dirty as it´s directly under the engine. Here I´d use something like Alclad Airframe aluminium and then weather heavily. The look you want is shiny metal but dirty if you get the jest. 🙂

 

Draken_10.jpg

 

 

Best regards!

 

Emil 

Edited by nr1forme
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Thanks for that Emil, I'll see what's in the paint stash when I get around to doing a Draken or two.  I've always seen the underside colour as a blue grey with a hint of green in it, and MrHobby/Gunze RLM65 may work well. 

 

Jens

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