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MONOGRAM F-84 E/G 1/48

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16 hours ago, Tato said:


Hi Dai,


I have been doing a little research and from what I can see the rockets were built using some 500 lb bomb parts. Also looking at photos it seems that the pylons are the same for the TT and bombs, witch kind of rather confirms the commonality between both weapons. But I'm not sure, there is probably someone who knows better.


I also found this build. It's in 1/32 but the pylons kind of look the same for the bombs. It that's the case, then it's only matter of adding the sway braces.




Hope this helps.






PS: Thank you for names of the resin companies!



I look at the photo and the pylon is larger then the pylon that carries the 250 lbs bomb. The pylons look like the ones that carry the external fuel tanks. But that is the HH kit and accuracy can be questionable. I find one photo of the F84 with the TT but the shot is head-on so the pylons can not be visualized. Any F84 experts here care to chime in ? Dai  

th (1).jpg

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On 8/30/2020 at 12:51 AM, dai phan said:

Trying to get the bombs painted with yellow stripes again that has been giving severe frustration in the past week... Dai


Try using a scribing template like this:



insert the bomb in the corresponding sized hole and fix it with blu-tack: then you can use the template as a guide to roll the masking tape in a straight line.

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why not just make a little masking tape cone "party hat" or just a cylinder and then stick it to the top of the bomb. if you plan your measurements out right you will get it close to the diameter you need and it should stick enough that with just a slight bit of pressure stay in place while painting.



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1 hour ago, martin_sam_2000 said:

why not just make a little masking tape cone "party hat" or just a cylinder and then stick it to the top of the bomb. if you plan your measurements out right you will get it close to the diameter you need and it should stick enough that with just a slight bit of pressure stay in place while painting.



I have tried but I cannot get the line to be even. The tip of the 1/48 250 lbs bomb is pretty darn small. Dai 

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On 9/10/2020 at 11:35 PM, Major Walt said:

I didn’t know that about the Pro Modeler line. That really boosts their value 😁

Monogram put out the PM line that sported recessed panel lines in the early 90's that rival Tamiya quality. Too bad the company folded shortly after. The kit I am building is considered by many to be the best F84 E/G in 1/48 as the Tamiya offerings has some minor shape issues. Dai 

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Greeting fellow modelers...


I have found a way to paint the tip of the bomb with almost perfect precision. I use the template as Andrea Bolla suggested but rather than masking with tape ( impossible in this scale ), I use it as a mask. I choose the appropriate diameter, cut it out leaving 3-4 mm square border, fit over the tip of the bomb and use blue tack or similar material to make the mask stay. Since the blue tack is compressible, you can push the mask all the way down the bomb and it will stay put. Also it will give you ample opportunity to move so you get a straight perpendicular line to the long axis of the bomb all around. Set the airbrush pressure to 10-15 psi so you do not blow the mask of. You need to buy the plastic template because the metal one is too soft and easily distorted. The pictures show right after the mask is removed. Any imperfections can be easily corrected with wash and weathering later on. Dai 







Edited by dai phan
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Hello everyone ...


The plane is clear coated and ready for decals. The clear is AK Gauzy Intermediate Agent. Excellent gloss without affecting the luster of the metal finish. Can be sanded and rebuffed for a nice smooth  glossy finish. Dai 



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Greeting fellow modelers ...


Started to decal the plane. The Eagle Strike sheet is for the Tamiya kit preferably so I am not so sure how it will fit the Monogram kit. But with careful cutting slits around the nose decal,  lots of patience and with the help with Microsol, the hardest parts ( the nose and one piece fuselage emblem ) are done. Any minor flaws can be addressed with careful weathering later on . The decal is thick enough to allow repeated positioning. Will apply another application of either Microsol or Solvaset to get the decal conforming to the surface as best as possible. Dai 







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Greetings ...


A little more progress this evening of decaling. I use the Eagle Strike sheet and it advised to use the kit's decals for the insignias and USAF as the decal offering is sized for the Tamiya kit. However I went and use the Sky Lancer decals for these parts as the Monogram's offering is a tad small. Also the SL decals have the correct color of dark blue rather than black. The Sky Lancer decals  however have the issue of wrinkles not going away with repeated Solvaset so I apply another coat, wait few minutes then with my thumbs I push down hard onto the decals and that seems to do the trick of resolving 95% of the wrinkles. Also the arrow decals on the wing tip tanks  is way too long and was shortened of about 6 mm. Should be able to complete the project this weekend. Dai 












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Hello everyone ...


Finished decaling the plane. This phase is much more complicated than I thought. The Eagle Strike decals suggested to use the Monogram F84G stencils as the ES sheet is sized for Tamiya. They say the R/M offering is excellent and needs not be replaced. What a joke ! The Monogram decals were so horrific ! t took at least 20 minutes to release the backing and very prone to be broken apart. Luckily I have a Revell F84E with slightly better quality and I used that instead with some massive fussing. The decals were just horrible. The tip tank stencils locations and orientations I found to be very frustrating. The Aeromaster, Eagle Strike, Microscale, Sky Lancer, Revell all show different locations, relative positions and orientations. None of these match even close to each other at all. The AM reference indicated the stencils are placed up side down and in order to read, the crew has to put his feet in the air in order to read ! Research online does not fare any better. I left off the majority of the small stencils because of their poor quality and in this scale, stencils are way oversized. Next ill be clear coat and wash/weathering. Dai 









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  • 1 month later...

Hello everyone ...


Sidetracked by radio control boats and tanks but this project is finally done. Here are my thoughts...



1. Best accurate F84G in 1/48.

2. Good cockpit and wheel wells details. 

3. Multiple choices of weapon loads.

4. Good panel lines. Deep enough to withstand sandings but fine enough for washes.

5. Good fit without the need of fillers.

6. PE parts in the Pro Modeler version. 



1. Poor decals. Out of register and wrong color (black instead of dark blue on the USAF insignias) and slightly under scale.

2. Soft flexible plastic resulting in "toe in" landing gears. A metal replacement would be appropriate here.

3. Vague diagrams on the landing gear assemblies.

4. Inaccurate landing gears. 

5. Questionable engineering in some places like molded in wheel doors that will be knocked off during assembly. And they were! 

6. Clear HUD part needs to be trimmed substantially in order to make it sit and not strike the front widshield.

7. Diagram does not show the dihedral of the horizontal stabilizer. 


Overall a nice and easy kit to build. I used some kit decals, Eagle Strike and Sky Lancer decals. A nice and important 50's fighter now added to my collection ! Dai 













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3 hours ago, Rocketdrvr said:

Hi dai phan, great job on your build!


I have one question, when you placed the "USAF" logo on the bottom of the wing how did you cut the part out for the gear door?




I use Skylancer Decals and the decal is precut. I also see this on Eagle Strike (Aeromaster) as well as kit's decals and Microscale. The SL decals are accurate because the color of the USAF is dark blue rather than black and the kit's decals are slighly under sized. Dai 

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