viking73 Posted October 17, 2020 Share Posted October 17, 2020 Hi Guys, Just wanted to vent a bit. Last weekend, after several years of on and off work, my Roden 1/144 C-124C was about to receive it's coat of natural metal paint so I could maybe finally finish this kit. I sprayed it with rattle-can Rust-Oleum gloss black. I let it dry for about 18 hours, wet sanded it, and polished it back up. Next I broke out the Tamiya Silver Leaf rattle-can and sprayed the model. Then this happened 😞 The only thing I can think of is that I didn't let the black paint dry long enough?? Or did the Rust-Oleum have a bad reaction to the Tamiya paint? I really don't want to trash this kit so I'm going to try Testers ELO paint remover for the first time. I ordered a can off of eBay and I hope to strip this next weekend... I'll report back once I give it a try... Thanks for letting me vent. I was very bummed about this but I'm not ready to throw this model out just yet! -Derek Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Beary Posted October 17, 2020 Share Posted October 17, 2020 (edited) I'm thinking that the Rust-Oleum is an enamel based paint and the Tamiya is a lacquer based paint. If you spray the latter out of the aerosol can, it is way too much lacquer over the enamel. Bob Edited October 17, 2020 by Bob Beary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RichardL Posted October 17, 2020 Share Posted October 17, 2020 Light layers of lacquer paint over fully cured enamel is OK. For example, Alclad Gloss Black Base is enamel, but Alclad metallic paints are lacquer and designed to be airbrushed over the enamel black base without any issue. However, as Bob mentioned above, dumping tons of lacquer from the rattle can over an enamel base is a recipe for disaster. Also, enamel takes a long time to dry, at least 24 hours. It takes even longer for it to cure. I would give it at least 48 hours before spraying the metallic coat. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
airmechaja Posted October 18, 2020 Share Posted October 18, 2020 I would have let the enamel cure for a week. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Beary Posted October 18, 2020 Share Posted October 18, 2020 Once you get it stripped, use Tamiya Fine White Primer in the rattle can. Then shoot the rattle can Silver Leaf over that....carefully!! You do not need a polished black base for that color. Considering that it is a rattle can application, there will be so much Silver Leaf over the black that it will negate any benefit from the black. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
admiralcag Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 ELO should work nicely on a small spot like that. Wash it with soapy water after stripping the section. Vern Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trietmcam Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 One note about ELO, they do attack the plastic a little by making it more brittle, if left it on for too long. It may attack cemented joints also. I suspect if you use it once, it should be ok. I had fuselage half joints came apart and parts chipped off at the edges. But one thing it does very well is stripping lacquer based paint, including Mr surfacer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peter havriluk Posted November 13, 2020 Share Posted November 13, 2020 Enamels behave in ways that can drive lacquer-users into madness. I can identify an enamel by reading the instructions for use on the can labels. If the instructions say to recoat within a half hour or wait two days, that's enamel. And they ain't kidding about the two days. In op's case, 'q-e-d' that eighteen hours wasn't long enough. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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