MusicOn Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Title says it all: I prime with Mr. Surfacer 1000 (multiple thin coats finished with a final "wet" coat) thinned 50/50 with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner through an airbrush. Using AK Interactive acrylic lacquers. 24-48 hour cure time. Tamiya masking tape - I've tried the whole "stick it to the table a few times to reduce the tackiness" trick too. What am I doing wrong? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Beary Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 What do you do AFTER you shoot the primer? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MusicOn Posted December 7, 2020 Author Share Posted December 7, 2020 53 minutes ago, Bob Beary said: What do you do AFTER you shoot the primer? Let it dry for 24-48 hours. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Beary Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 I was thinking of possible sanding/handling and surface contamination. You seem to be doing all the right things. If the paint AND primer are lifting off, that could be due to surface contamination. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Curt B Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Have you considered using Post-It notes as masking? The adhesive on those is really weak, and may help you. But I agree that it sounds like you are doing everything right, and should not need to reduce the tackiness of your masking medium. How long do you leave the tape on the model before removing it? Take it off as soon as possible. How do you remove the tape? I suggest a VERY slow, deliberate, peeling off of the masking tape. I also agree with Bob that a very slight texture on the plastic might improve the primer adhesion. I know this doesn’t really help, but would you consider a different primer (though Mr. Surfacer is about the best there is), maybe something like Stynylrez? Has this been happening on multiple models, or just one? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MusicOn Posted December 7, 2020 Author Share Posted December 7, 2020 Thanks everyone - it's the paint lifting off the primer - I try to be very careful about surface prep (I thoroughly clean the plastic with IPA) and then only handle with latex gloves after paint has begun, making sure to store in a covered cabinet during curing. I wonder if I'm laying down the primer either too thin, or thinning it too much. The texture seemed pretty smooth this time. This has happened on 2 models, the only common thread being the AK Interactive Real Color acrylic lacquer. Maybe that stuff just doesn't bond as well. I can't go away from the tamiya tape, that stuff is just so perfect and stretchy! Got some touch ups today, will report back. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ElectroSoldier Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 Try trying to get rid of the stickyness with your fingers. After a while you will get to know how sticky it needs to be to block the paint and not lift it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
goondman Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 I'm in the process of painting a skyraider with RealCo!or, masked with putty and have had no issue... I just did an experiment with my last 2 builds incldimg the Skyraider (using RealColor): Pressed Tamiya tape down hard and in a couple different places, pealed it off with no liftage of paint. NOTE: I painted over Tamiya XF-1 flat black. That being said, I'm kind of thinking, Real Color isnt agreeing with Mr. Surfacer. Keep us posted Kurt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bashace Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 I use the sensitive medical tape when masking most Acrylics, Tamiya tape has a strong grip. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ColonelKrypton Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 What are you using to thin the AK Interactive acrylic lacquers? Mr Color levelling thinner or the AK Interactive high compatibility thinner? Is the AK interactive acrylic lacquers partially drying before hitting the surface of the model? Does your color coat look dry or wet? Have you tried adding a bit of retarder to the mix? You can also over thin paint too. One trick I heard about but have yet to try is to spray on a neat coat of lacquer thinner AFTER you last layer of color. You would make that neat coat of thinner on the wet side and a bit of retarder would likely help as well. Then wait your 24 to 48 hours as before. cheers, Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kozlok Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 There are two things you wrote that might be a clue: Wash with IPA and Handle with Latex gloves. There are compounds in latex that are easily dissolved in IPA, and difficult to remove once deposited on a surface. It could be that something in that brand of paint is sensitive to these compounds. As an experiment, try washing with mild dish soap and water, rinsing with water, and then handle with Nitrile gloves. Nitrile is much less reactive with everything, including IPA. In any case, I would not allow the IPA to contact gloves and then the model. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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